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Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: B1MAXX] #3221798
03/20/24 10:09 PM
03/20/24 10:09 PM
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Omaha Ne
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Removing the nut is the easy part, it is them dang taper hubs that suck getting off, especially the driver side puke rant
I forgot to add heating up with a torch to cherry red will help also if your using a puller up scope wrench

I hear ya but I cant believe that a sledge won't take it off in a few whacks if we're not trying to save anything from the backing plate out.


I can, BTDT, years ago had one launch into the next work bay fortunately nothing was in it's path. That is when I learned to leave the nut on as not only would it have prevented the launch, it would have also prevented the mushrooming of the axle They can be an SOB to get off. other times not.

i have also heard that loosening the nut a turn or so and driving the car around L & R turns will sometimes break them loose. never tried it though beer

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: TJP] #3221805
03/20/24 10:27 PM
03/20/24 10:27 PM
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,820
South Bend
John Brown Offline
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It's amazing what you can loosen with a fire wrench and a garden hose. Of course, having the correct puller helps a lot.

I come from the land of Studebakers. That pretty much assured I'd get some experience with those tapered keyed axles.


July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: poorboy] #3221831
03/21/24 06:41 AM
03/21/24 06:41 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,966
Apollo, PA.
B1MAXX Offline
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Originally Posted by poorboy
Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Removing the nut is the easy part, it is them dang taper hubs that suck getting off, especially the driver side puke rant
I forgot to add heating up with a torch to cherry red will help also if your using a puller up scope wrench

I hear ya but I cant believe that a sledge won't take it off in a few whacks if we're not trying to save anything from the backing plate out.


Have you ever removed one of the tapered axle drums before?

I watched my boss, with 25 years of experience working on those tapered axle drums destroy an axle shaft trying to remove a drum once. He had all the correct equipment and he used every trick he had ever learned and it still didn't work. Sometimes they just don't come apart. He ended up cutting the drum and removing the brake shoes to get the axle out and replaced that axle with a junk yard axle shaft and drum.



I bet I could break the the whole dam end of the axle off, flange welds and all with a sledge. Those backing plate/ axle flange bolts would probably go first though. In reality that's all that has to go then the drum,axle, brakes, and backing plate all go.
I have removed tapered shafts on many tractors/machinery of much older vintage than that but not that particular joint.

To the op... impact the nut off give it a whack to back of the backing plate or two with a sledge assuming you have an impact for the nut and a 5 or 8 pound sledge. I'm not talking a hand hammer here. Give it a shot, let us know.

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: B1MAXX] #3221928
03/21/24 04:12 PM
03/21/24 04:12 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
poorboy Offline
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Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Originally Posted by poorboy
Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Removing the nut is the easy part, it is them dang taper hubs that suck getting off, especially the driver side puke rant
I forgot to add heating up with a torch to cherry red will help also if your using a puller up scope wrench

I hear ya but I cant believe that a sledge won't take it off in a few whacks if we're not trying to save anything from the backing plate out.


Have you ever removed one of the tapered axle drums before?

I watched my boss, with 25 years of experience working on those tapered axle drums destroy an axle shaft trying to remove a drum once. He had all the correct equipment and he used every trick he had ever learned and it still didn't work. Sometimes they just don't come apart. He ended up cutting the drum and removing the brake shoes to get the axle out and replaced that axle with a junk yard axle shaft and drum.



I bet I could break the the whole dam end of the axle off, flange welds and all with a sledge. Those backing plate/ axle flange bolts would probably go first though. In reality that's all that has to go then the drum,axle, brakes, and backing plate all go.
I have removed tapered shafts on many tractors/machinery of much older vintage than that but not that particular joint.

To the op... impact the nut off give it a whack to back of the backing plate or two with a sledge assuming you have an impact for the nut and a 5 or 8 pound sledge. I'm not talking a hand hammer here. Give it a shot, let us know.


Don't doubt you "probably" can. I know I couldn't, call me a wimp if you want.
But I have a torch. I can cut the drum, pull the shoes and remove the 4 flange nuts a lot faster and with a lot less effort to accomplish the same goal. I've actually done it my way, so I know for sure that can be done.

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: poorboy] #3221952
03/21/24 06:38 PM
03/21/24 06:38 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,966
Apollo, PA.
B1MAXX Offline
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No doubt the torch is the best way, it will probably let go with enough heat. but a sledge is quicker than that. I wouldn't beat on it all day but a couple whacks why not.

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: TJP] #3222126
03/22/24 01:41 PM
03/22/24 01:41 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,366
north of coder
moparx Offline
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north of coder
Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by B1MAXX
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Removing the nut is the easy part, it is them dang taper hubs that suck getting off, especially the driver side puke rant
I forgot to add heating up with a torch to cherry red will help also if your using a puller up scope wrench

I hear ya but I cant believe that a sledge won't take it off in a few whacks if we're not trying to save anything from the backing plate out.


I can, BTDT, years ago had one launch into the next work bay fortunately nothing was in it's path. That is when I learned to leave the nut on as not only would it have prevented the launch, it would have also prevented the mushrooming of the axle They can be an SOB to get off. other times not.

i have also heard that loosening the nut a turn or so and driving the car around L & R turns will sometimes break them loose. never tried it though beer




loosening the nut and driving around in tight figure eights does work ! i have done it a few times. it also helps to jam on the brakes.
this also works great when you have an alloy wheel seize to the axle shaft due to galvanic corrosion. just loosen the lugnuts a couple of turns and drive in figure eights, jamming on the brakes as well.
when you get the wheel off, make sure to clean the hub and wheel register good, then apply a dab of anti-seize to the wheel and axle to prevent this from happening in the future.
beer

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: B1MAXX] #3222127
03/22/24 01:43 PM
03/22/24 01:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
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For the record, we didn't have any intension of trying to save the one axle shaft & drum. We were intending on saving the rest of the rear end. The goal on that rear end was to replace the brake shoes, brake springs, and the wheel cylinders. The other side came off without issues, we fought this side for about 15 minutes. We knew an axle shaft and rear brake drum were available. Cutting the drum was the fastest and easiest method we could find to solve our problem. We replaced both the axle shaft and the drum.

There was no concern about if we could apply enough heat heat to make it let go. We cut the drum into a center piece still attached to the axle (the cut was just outside of the axle flange), and an outer piece that the brake shoes run against. Then it was just a matter of getting the outer part of the drum off the shoes so we could remove the shoes. The one we ere dealing with the outer part of the drum was simply pried off with a couple of large screw drivers.

The Op just wants the center section of the rear end. Cut the drums just outside of the axle flange, remove the outer part of the drum (only the brake shoes are holding it, if its a real pain, cut the top and bottom of the outer drum and pull off both 1/2s). With the outer drum removed, access to the brake shoes is easy. Remove the brake shoes to gain access to the nuts that are holding the bearing flange onto the rear end housing (an end wrench is probably required), and pull the axles as you would a normal 8 3/4. If a torch is present, that is a 15 minute job per side.

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: poorboy] #3222281
03/22/24 11:51 PM
03/22/24 11:51 PM
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Posts: 8,844
poplar bluff mo.
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toplescuda Offline OP
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I haven't had chance yet to try yet. Buddy has torch. And will try cutting the crap out of it


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Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: 70X] #3222764
03/25/24 07:37 PM
03/25/24 07:37 PM
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ILLINOIS
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volaredon Offline
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What bolt pattern?
I'm guessing 5 on 4-1/2 but I've heard rumors that they made some 5 on 5&1/2 at one time

Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: volaredon] #3222815
03/25/24 11:32 PM
03/25/24 11:32 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline
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Originally Posted by volaredon
What bolt pattern?
I'm guessing 5 on 4-1/2 but I've heard rumors that they made some 5 on 5&1/2 at one time


5 on 5 1/2 were used on a 73 W-100...

Front and rear...


...FAFO...
Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: skicker] #3222830
03/26/24 05:55 AM
03/26/24 05:55 AM
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Posts: 5,783
ohio
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ruderunner Offline
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ohio
Dodge used both depending on year and 2wd 4wd


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Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: volaredon] #3223220
03/27/24 08:05 PM
03/27/24 08:05 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,127
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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The early Imperials may have had a bigger wheel bolt pattern also confused


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: Cab_Burge] #3223285
03/28/24 09:17 AM
03/28/24 09:17 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline
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Imps were 5" x 5"...

The 5.5" is the same as Jeep and Ford...

The 5" was the same as Chevy truck and van and some older large Ford cars...

Center registers vary across all of them and not everything interchanges due to their diameters...

Most all aftermarket stuff will...


...FAFO...
Re: 8 3/4 truck rearend [Re: toplescuda] #3223296
03/28/24 10:40 AM
03/28/24 10:40 AM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
OK the most important question of the day......

Did you get it off yet, and how?

laugh2 laugh

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