Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge and adjusted the idle mixture screws for highest vacuum at idle?

No, sound and RPMs only. Gonna borrow a vacum gauge tomorrow and check that. I'm going to check the floats?

Now since you checked to make sure the metering rods were down you can see how easy they are to change. Take one out. The size are stamped on them. It's very small and I use a magnifying glass to read.

Also if you're going to check the floats you'll have the top off the carbs and can check the jets also. The primary jets are the 2 in front and secondary are the 2 ones in rear.

A stock primary jet on a 500 would be 386 which is a .086 jet. you just subtract 300 from the number.

I used to run dual 750 cfm (Eddy 1407's, I think was the number) on my Hemi. Yes, they were rich to start but after playing with the metering rods and jetting 4 or 5 times It ran flawlessly, started right up, idled fine and was not too rich on the street. Hemi's like cfm.

Thanks. I have ordered the Edelbrock calubrating kit, is suppose to be here today. I'm going to start by changing the metering rods to same as the Edelbrocks set up on the carbs they sell "specifically" for a 2 4 set up. I will keep every one advised how it wotks. If that doesn't work, I wii go to the jets.

Calibrating the carbs the same as Edelbrock did for dual carb use should have been your starting point when you put them on the engine. I'm not so sure that a calibration kit will have what you need. I'd think you would need to order the jets and metering rods specifically for that conversion. Once you have the carbs converted to the dual quad setup then you can use the calibration kits to tune them to your engine.

Don't forget you need 2 calibration kits 1 for each carb.

After reading through this thread a few questions. Without any O2 how are you determining that the carbs are rich? Soot on the plug? Do you have the correct heat range plug?If so how do you know if it's at idle or wot. Could be caused by weak spark as well. How does the car perform for power? How about idle quality? Are the seats tight in the carb lids? Have you pulled the lids to verify float level? Have you cleaned the idle air bleeds?
Doug

Yes, scote on the plugs. Yes, correct heat range on the plugs, I believe? I'm pretty sure idle and cruise speed, very rarely ever at WOT. Spark, I don't know. New MSD ready run, electronic distributor, new NKG plugs, new MSD wires. New MSD Blaster 2 coil scheduled to be delivered today by UPS. Idle quality, OK, except smell and burns the eyes. Exhaust tips, black as coal. Seats tight, I have not checked. Have not checked floats, but on my "To Do List". Idle air bleeds, details/help please?
Jack

I would start with adjusting the idle mixture screws on all four of them to try and clean up the idle fuel mixture
Start the car up a drive it, if you can, for 15 to 20 minutes to warm it up and then start by adjusting one of the rear carb idle mixture screws in very slowly until you hear a change in the idle RPM., get it to idle as fast as it will Once your done with it one do the other side and then adjust the fronts.
After doing all four go back to the rear and see if you can make it change again for the better or worse, once you got it the way you like it go drive it around again at light part throttle to see if it will clean the plugs up some and the drive it a little harder also
Let us know your results

Sounds like a plan. Hope to get started on all I need to do, 1st thing tomorrow. UPS did not bring all my parts today.

I called Edelbrock Tech yesterday to see if my brilliant idea of changing the jets, spring, and metering rods would work to make my 1401 & 1402 be compatible to the 1801 & 1802? He advised would probably help, but the 1801 & 1802 had been discontined. They have been replaced with 1901 & 1902, and they were completely different, even from the 1801 & 1802?