Ok finally get my new transmission this week , i hope 🤔. Nah should be good .
Anyway what if any change in rear shock adjustment should i think about ?
Currently footbrake no 2 step .
I do run radials , 28x10.5r15 pro bracket radials @16 1/4psi . I have Viking Crusader rear shocks , dbl adjustment and radial valving .
I have Caltracs .
Shocks are 10 from softest compression and 5 from softest on extension
I am hoping to get down towards a 1.45 sixty . Best currently is 1.47 with national event track prep , 1.48/.49 normally

Tex

As someone was known to say on here, "tighter is faster".

huh ?

Tex

Video tape the launch from the side with an I-Pad/phone and replay the launch frame by frame. If you can see the tire driving down before the car starts moving you need to tighten the extension. You want the cars first movement to be forward. The compression for my car has always been an assomoter thing. If I can feel that it's too tight while driving through the pits, I loosen it up a tad. My car is more than 50% weight on the rear and is slammed to the ground though. I would tighten the extension from 5 clicks from tight the first time that you hit it. There really isn't a heavy shock to the ring gear foot braking. With a trans. brake the ring gear is hit and immediately wants to hit the ground.

Kool thanks Dave .
I only have 1 video of a launch in slomo .it does show some tyre sidewall wrinkle on the hit , so I will try some tighter ext
I know all the still shots show wrinkle .

Tex

The tire is going to do what it does. You should be able to add air pressure to the tires until it starts to slow the 60'. Run the most air you can without spin. Maybe in 1/2 pound increments or something. You've probably already been there and can try this again later. You are looking for excessive separation of the wheel from the body. I gained a bunch by limiting this. The old school book was 1" max. on a car like yours. Don't know if the trans. brake was included in the book calculation??? Just from the photo it looks as if it was set pretty good for what you were doing.

i run Strange Dbl adjustables on my junk, my settings are 2 from total soft on compression & 2 from total stiff on extention. this usually gets me in the 1.2x 60's. its down side is, huge long wheelstands but i'm so use to it i dont even notice anymore.

Thanks guys
Rebel i think i might need more omph to go where you do.
Dave , car seems happiest at this psi . I did start at 18.5 same as in Hoosier and et street radials i used to use .
This new motor wanted the new Viking rears and lower pressure to hook up .
So it will need some testng

Tex

The difference here is radials vs slicks. Radial will want more hit. Rather the try to hook of the bat I suggest you test with video and start over tight. Then move both adjustments a few clicks at a time until it hooks. You will need video as the amount of spin will change very little. 1/2 turn, 3.4 turn, 1 turn of the tire. Once there you can split the adjustment a few clicks and watch the video. Read up on how to see if you need to move the compression or rebound.It'll take time but you will know what adjustments do what on your particular car. look at some of Dizusters video's on You tube.
Doug

thanks for the input guys

Tex

If the shocks are valved for your application, unfortunately no one will be able to tell you what number of clicks to use. A setting of 5 on your shock could be a 13 on mine. Best thing to do is call your shock guy and ask where to start.

They are the ONLY ones who know how your particular set of shocks are valved. Aanyone else is simply guessing.