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Re: Potential buy 35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan. Pics for your advise
[Re: RUMBLON]
#1969908
12/15/15 01:47 AM
12/15/15 01:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
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Looks like a great start! I can see a passenger side door in the pictures. I'd want to be sure there is a driver side door. Its only going to fit a 35 & 36 2 door car. A driver door won't be easy to find. The rear fender might be a challenge to locate, but you can build a car without fenders, its difficult to build one without a driver side door.
Does he have a title? If not, do you know what it takes to get a title in the state you live in? Some states are not bad getting titles, others are expensive nightmares with enough hoops to jump through you will feel like a circus clown.
The frame, if its not rusted through, and fits under the body is a starting point. The 60s 8 3/4 (if its newer then 66) is a big plus. The hole in the roof is standard procedure, originally it had a canvas & wood covering that rotted away in the weather, most were long gone or near gone by WWII. There are a few options of solving the roof issue.
You wanted a clean slate, that one looks about as clean as these old rides come. Body parts are the hard stuff to come by, most of that one is still there. Pending the driver door, and the price, I would probably have it here already, if it looks any where near as good in real life as it does in pictures. Gene
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Re: UPDATED-NEW PICS-35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan.Pics for your advise
[Re: RUMBLON]
#1971266
12/17/15 02:39 AM
12/17/15 02:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
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That Plymouth looks 100 times better then the 35 Dodge I started with and built 20 years ago! It looks 100 times better then my 48 Plymouth looked when I started with it, and I'm driving it these days! How much is he asking, and does he have a title?
The grill was formed sheetmetal. Finding one intact, or close to being intact is tough. I believe they may be available aftermarket.
If your installing any motor other then the flathead 6 and its original trans, the front floor section will need to be fabricated. The original floor section that bolted into place won't fit around anything other then the original drive train.
It looks like someone drilled out the frozen door hinge bolts. The plate behind the door jam was a 1/4" plate with 4 tapped holes in it. The screws went through the holes in the hinges, through the holes in the door jam, and tightened into the plate. The screws were either straight blade or Phillips screw heads that had a tapered head (I've never seen original screws that were not stripped out) that set in the door hinge part.
The door post appears to be dented, and the fenders look to be in pretty decent condition other then the dents, dent removal is part of body work, something 90% of these old cars need to have done. I have no idea what the deal is with the rear fender, I would have held it up against the body to see how close it matched up. The running boards are interesting, and also something I've never personally seen in original condition! I just don't look at restored cars at car shows, and all of them on hot rods have been modified.
Last I knew, 8 3/4 center sections were still available. If you don't want to buy one, put a different rear end under it.
I'm getting the impression you need to buy a nearly complete project with most of the stuff done, buy a complete ready to drive car, or buy another muscle car. Not trying to be an azz, but that Plymouth looks pretty good for being 80 years old. Building old cars is a lot of work, the older they are, the more work involved. Anyone telling you differently is feeding you a line of BS.
The old Stude truck will probably look about the same.
This is a picture of my 35 Dodge 2 door sedan right after I got it home. That is me with my son, he is 35 now. The second picture is the same car, 5 years later. It takes a lot of work to get them to look like this, and up close, it didn't look that good. How does that Plymouth look now? Gene
 
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Re: UPDATED-NEW PICS-35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan.Pics for your advise
[Re: poorboy]
#1971289
12/17/15 03:30 AM
12/17/15 03:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,857
Cambridge Idaho
RUMBLON
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,857
Cambridge Idaho
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That Plymouth looks 100 times better then the 35 Dodge I started with and built 20 years ago! It looks 100 times better then my 48 Plymouth looked when I started with it, and I'm driving it these days! How much is he asking, and does he have a title?
The grill was formed sheetmetal. Finding one intact, or close to being intact is tough. I believe they may be available aftermarket.
If your installing any motor other then the flathead 6 and its original trans, the front floor section will need to be fabricated. The original floor section that bolted into place won't fit around anything other then the original drive train.
It looks like someone drilled out the frozen door hinge bolts. The plate behind the door jam was a 1/4" plate with 4 tapped holes in it. The screws went through the holes in the hinges, through the holes in the door jam, and tightened into the plate. The screws were either straight blade or Phillips screw heads that had a tapered head (I've never seen original screws that were not stripped out) that set in the door hinge part.
The door post appears to be dented, and the fenders look to be in pretty decent condition other then the dents, dent removal is part of body work, something 90% of these old cars need to have done. I have no idea what the deal is with the rear fender, I would have held it up against the body to see how close it matched up. The running boards are interesting, and also something I've never personally seen in original condition! I just don't look at restored cars at car shows, and all of them on hot rods have been modified.
Last I knew, 8 3/4 center sections were still available. If you don't want to buy one, put a different rear end under it.
I'm getting the impression you need to buy a nearly complete project with most of the stuff done, buy a complete ready to drive car, or buy another muscle car. Not trying to be an azz, but that Plymouth looks pretty good for being 80 years old. Building old cars is a lot of work, the older they are, the more work involved. Anyone telling you differently is feeding you a line of BS.
The old Stude truck will probably look about the same.
This is a picture of my 35 Dodge 2 door sedan right after I got it home. That is me with my son, he is 35 now. The second picture is the same car, 5 years later. It takes a lot of work to get them to look like this, and up close, it didn't look that good. How does that Plymouth look now? Gene I dont have any problems doing a ton of work and like it, Im just not versed on older mopes and am not sure which route to go, a finished car or just kind of a rat rod. And not knowing the older cars I dont know how hard it is to find the parts. As far as the rear and stuff I was just outlining what came with it. I was originally under the impression that there was an 8 3/4 under it as thats what I originally posted so I was changing what it has. The project is cheap and does come with a title. I think for the $ its a deal so Im going to grab it. But since I dont know the older cars Im not afraid to admit it and ask questions. RUMBLON
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Re: UPDATED-NEW PICS-35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan.Pics for your advise
[Re: RUMBLON]
#1971297
12/17/15 04:04 AM
12/17/15 04:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
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Gotta on the questions.
The old Stude truck looks pretty good too!
Can't speak for the Stude trucks, but in terms of 50s Dodges, the cab corners, especially the floors in the cab corners, were favorite places for mice to nest, so often there were holes. The step area may be a concern. The late 50s Dodge step area on the cabs were structural pieces that supported the cab floors. once the step area rusted out, the cab floors were pretty weak and would sag, and let the door jams move under the weight of the opening doors, but the step area would have had to be pretty shot for that to happen.
The Dodges of that era had the sheetmetal of the fenders folded over at the back fender edge to double up the edge to give it extra strength (think 60s performance car door bottoms except at the back of the fender instead)). Only problem was they didn't bother painting or rust proofing the metal before they folded it over, so the lip rusted out. I suspect the Stude is the same way. I'd be really surprised if there were any replacement body parts available for that cab. The extra front sheet metal and the extra box is a plus.
On the positive side, the 50 Stude should be a bigger cab then the 39-47 Dodge truck cab, and defiantly wider then the 35 Plymouth. Another advantage is its a truck. I think trucks lend themselves to modifications easier then most cars.
I'd make sure the other guy gets the title straightened out, that can be a mess. Gene
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Re: Potential buy 35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan. Pics for your advise
[Re: dartracer]
#1971334
12/17/15 09:18 AM
12/17/15 09:18 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,355
north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,355
north of coder
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rear fender looks 37-38 Plymouth Dodge i got to agree with this. they also fit chrysler and desoto, depending on the model. one thing i will say about rats. you can hone your skills from fabbing to welding and everything in between, and come out way ahead cost wize because you are out only your time. the only downside to this is [in my mind any way] to make SURE it is structurally sound. my favorite approach, and the one i'm taking on my humpback project, is a very well built, painted and detailed, chassis and suspension, [which i almost entirely built from piles of tube and plate] a detailed and painted drive train, a finished interior [which will use slightly worn upholstery plus, where needed, "distressed" material to blend in with the seats] new glass, and "somewhat rough" body work where replacement panels need fabbed. what minimal chrome there will be will just be polished up as best can be on the head and tail light assemblies, and the body scuffed up only as much as needed for some satin clear. bullet holes, dents and welds will be left as is, but i want the door gaps almost perfect, and the doors must close with the minimalist effort. maybe not a "real" rat, but my style of one. and that sedan is 900% better than my humpback was to start, so if it has paperwork and is cheap, go for it and not worry about fenders. but that studie is so sweet........ 
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Re: Potential buy 35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan. Pics for your advise
[Re: moparx]
#1971764
12/17/15 11:33 PM
12/17/15 11:33 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 251
Lithonia, Ga
36PLYM
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 251
Lithonia, Ga
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For what its worth, that 2 door Plymouth looks more like a 36. The fenders, hood, dash and windshield are for sure 36. The grille shell is 35.
36 Plymouth Coupe
318 w/360 heads
518 trans
8 3/4 rear
Ga. Tech BCE'78
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Re: Potential buy 35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan. Pics for your advise
[Re: 36PLYM]
#1971840
12/18/15 12:46 AM
12/18/15 12:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,857
Cambridge Idaho
RUMBLON
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,857
Cambridge Idaho
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For what its worth, that 2 door Plymouth looks more like a 36. The fenders, hood, dash and windshield are for sure 36. The grille shell is 35. thanks, the title is for a 35. hummmmmm RUMBLON
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Re: Potential buy 35 Plymouth 2 dr sedan. Pics for your advise
[Re: RUMBLON]
#1972556
12/19/15 08:35 AM
12/19/15 08:35 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,355
north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,355
north of coder
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For what its worth, that 2 door Plymouth looks more like a 36. The fenders, hood, dash and windshield are for sure 36. The grille shell is 35. thanks, the title is for a 35. hummmmmm RUMBLON as for the title year discrepancy. i have found that some states back in those days titled the vehicle for the year they were sold in rather than the model year of the vehicle. if, for example, that sedan was sold in 1937 [for what ever reason, such as a leftover, demo, or salesman's ride], it would have a title as a 37 instead of a 36. possibly that is the reason this example shows a 35 year instead of a 36. or maybe there were some shenanigans pulled over the years between buyers and sellers. who knows what has happened when the car gets this old ? but then again, there is that 37-38 rear fender in the mix. the 35 grill shell, to my knowledge,may bolt up to the fenders, but won't be an exact match. you can bolt on a 35 nose to a 36, but you need everything.[grill shell,fenders,hood, etc] and visa-versa, 36 nose to a 35. same with 37 & 38 noses. just some things i have run into over the years.
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