I have been running my Charger this way for about 2 years since completing the restoration without any issue. I have excellent cranking power with the battery relocated and everything seems to work fine except it doesn't kill the engine when the master shutoff is turned off.

I enclosed my current wiring setup of the battery. I used 0 or 1 gauge wires for the battery to the starter and the grounds. I got a huge fuse/link to protect the car should something happen to the wire.

I thought I could kill the car by shutting the alternator field wires so I tapped into them and ran wires back to the 4 lug shutoff switch.

I added the pic of my altimeter since I am running the bypass upgrade outlined by Nacho in past posts. I don't know if this makes a difference in my issues.

I know the popular thing is to run the Ford solenoid but I would like to avoid that since I have all the wires in place and would rather not re do everything and I was able to make this work on this car several years ago without the ford solenoid and only a 2 post switch so something must be possible LOL

Mine has the same issue. Can't remember which, but one of these schematics shows the way I'm going to change the wiring to correct it. I do know I bought the Borg Warner relay shown in one of the two...

My guess is it's got something to do with how the alternator is wired into the kill switch. When the switch is turned off, the alternator is essentially running the car. On my car I have a 4 post kill switch, but use a 1 wire alternator. If my memory serves me correct it is wired:

Post 1 - Battery +
Post 2 - Alt
Post 3 - Starter
Post 4 - Jumper wire from post to Post 3

Not sure how the to wire a Chrysler wire up, but I'm sure there's a way. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will give their input.

Try switching the blue and green wires on the master switch?

The alternator wire needs to go all the way back to the battery and then a wire on the down side of the switch needs to run back to the harness. It's running off the alternator once it starts.

http://www.madelectrical.com is all you need to know

Only 1 of the field wires needs to go back to the switch. Example: cut blue wire at alt. Wire end from harness back to switch small pole A. Wire from small pole B back to the front and connects to ALT.

Thanks for the replies guys, Yes, I did see the MAD electrical stuff but I was really hoping to disturb as little as the wiring as possible to make this work.

I was wondering about the field wires if I had them backwards on the switch or if I only needed to shut down one of the fields.

If I only shut off one of the field wires, what do I do with the master cutoff switch, just interrupt one of them using the switch and discard the other?


Thank you, just saw your edited response

Nicely said Jay.

The ammeter line is feeding the car.

The charge side of the alternator must be isolated from the rest of the car in order for the cut off to work. The line from alt/amm/solenoid is the issue.

Easiest solution, as mentioned, remove line from ammeter and run it to the upstream side of cutoff or battery.

You have an altimeter in your car? Bigdad needs one of those.

Hahaha why the heck did I wtite that? Yup it's got the optional flying package!


Thanks guys. Hopefully I will be able to bring it to the track this summer for a few passes.

slo car, slo mind.... best I could do without my crayons.

If you have the 4 post battery switch as in your picture. Just run the charging system as it is wired originally and use the small posts on the battery switch to shut off the ignition system.
Just run the ignition activation wire through the small posts.
When the switch is shut off the ignition also shuts off.
Engine stops running.

Hope this helps,
Digger73 (Mike)

This is how i did mine but ran MSD ground wire to battery switch. Not NHRA legal, but it turned the engine off.

Obviously I don't know what I'm talking about or I would have fixed it by now but wouldn't the car still run from the alternator if I can kill the ignition?

I am running an MSD 6AL currently with my setup with the ballast resistor removed.

just run your MSD 12v reference wire (turn on lead) to the battery switch.
then the switch will kill yr ign and therefore your motor...

i would run the ign1 and ign2 to the battery switch and then to the msd.

All you have to do is take the small red wire for the MSD 6AL and cut it.
I would cut it near the MSD box so that nothing else will be effected.
Then run one end of the cut wire to one of the small posts on the battery switch. Then run the other cut end to the other small post. This will stop the engine from running when the switch is turned off. Of coarse you will have to wire the alternator so that it charges the battery.

Digger73 (Mike)

This has been solved!

the wiring diagram I posted was not entirely accurate as it turns out. The way I had it was one of the field wires (blue) was all tied together with the MSD wire and ballast resistor wiring which I bypassed. I had that wire on the 4 post switch being shut off which was not turning the car off.

All I did was remove the switch from that circuit and make the other field wire (green) go to the switch in the back and that did the trick. The car shuts off immediately now when you hit that switch!