Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Re: BRAKE TROUBLES [Re: MRMOPAR622] #986462
05/10/11 12:21 PM
05/10/11 12:21 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,502
SOUTH JERSEY
HEMIFRED Offline OP
master
HEMIFRED  Offline OP
master

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,502
SOUTH JERSEY
Quote:

Mr HEMIFRED, have you found your problem yet? Mine is doing the same thing as yours. We even pressure bleed them,no air in system no pedal. When we get all the air out it feels like it has a pedal,but when you push it down to the floor it goes. New master cylinder,new hard line to the rear,new calipers(all Wilwood). I just replaced the 2 braided steel brake lines to the calipers,will bleed the system again this afternoon. I have been told the braided lines never go bad,but that is the only things I had not replaced yet. I have never run a residual valve on my dragster before,Wilwood says to have brakes I must have one. My understanding of a residual is if you do not have one the fluid can run back to the master cylinder and let the piston retract back into the calipers and you will have to pump the pedal a time or 2 to get the pedal back up. That's not my problem you can pump the pedal all day and they never hold. They are like yours block off any line and they hold.

Hope you have fixed your problem and can tell me the fix.

P.S. I am sure you check this also,with one of the lines unhooked to the caliper when you push the pedal to the floor how much brake fluid come out? Mine looks like about a teaspoon full comes out.




PROBLEM IS CURED . It was due to the lack of fluid volume. We found out the master cylinder
was much too small. In looking back at the old system which we replaced it only had a single caliper up front. I found the master to be much too small with a piston size less than one inch. Now using a regular Mopar 1.125" bore. Residual valves are needed when the master is lower than the calipers.It does prevent fluid from draining back to the master.I have had experience with those before. They eliminate the first push being on the floor. But if you master is undersized like mine was I suspect your having trouble is from the same problem. You can't fill the lines and calipers with enough fluid to build any pressure.
Worn braided lines would give a soft pedal when pressure is applied from stretching whioch does not sound anything like your problem.

I am assuming that the master was bled using jumper lines first? Please let me know what you do find


home of the
Sox and Martin Hemi Duster


Re: BRAKE TROUBLES [Re: HEMIFRED] #986463
05/10/11 01:29 PM
05/10/11 01:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,008
Sweet Home Alabama
M
MRMOPAR622 Offline
top fuel
MRMOPAR622  Offline
top fuel
M

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,008
Sweet Home Alabama
Mine has had the wil-260-6765 7/8" bore master cylinder(these are called high-volume) & the wil-120-6818 .380 thick rotors & 1.75 pistons since the dragster was new and worked fine. When the brakes quit I replaced 1st master cylinder then calipers (both with the same exact parts). I replaced the 3/16th hard line back(that runs through the bottom tube on dragster) to the T that runs a 3/16th hard line(which I checked for for damage) to the other side of the dragster. The steel braided brake lines going to the calipers were the only parts left I could not verify(they did not leak or swell,hoping maybe they were swelled a little on the inside).So I have just replaced them & will bleed the brakes again tonight. The tech. at wilwood said they had never seen a braided brake line fail,that was not my problem. They said before I could have brakes I would have to have a 2lb residual valve. Which I have never had,after it sets for a couple of weeks I have to sometimes pump the pedal once or twice to get it back up but then it stays up. I understand that but my pedal will pump up & feel hard but will still go to the floor. When you have your foot on the pedal that should put more than 2 lbs of pressure and keep the fluid for running back. Unless my master cylinder got weak & I got another new wilwood master cylinder that was weak I am lost.

Anyone have any suggestion feel free to chime in. Wilwood said the steel braided lines I just replaced were not the problem. If after bleeding the brakes this afternoon if that is not the problem,I am back at square one.





"To Be The Man'You Have Got To Beat The Man" "T/D and Pro-Bracket Racer"
Re: BRAKE TROUBLES [Re: MRMOPAR622] #986464
05/10/11 01:42 PM
05/10/11 01:42 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
MR_P_BODY  Offline
Master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
Quote:

Mine has had the wil-260-6765 7/8" bore master cylinder(these are called high-volume) & the wil-120-6818 .380 thick rotors & 1.75 pistons since the dragster was new and worked fine. When the brakes quit I replaced 1st master cylinder then calipers (both with the same exact parts). I replaced the 3/16th hard line back(that runs through the bottom tube on dragster) to the T that runs a 3/16th hard line(which I checked for for damage) to the other side of the dragster. The steel braided brake lines going to the calipers were the only parts left I could not verify(they did not leak or swell,hoping maybe they were swelled a little on the inside).So I have just replaced them & will bleed the brakes again tonight. The tech. at wilwood said they had never seen a braided brake line fail,that was not my problem. They said before I could have brakes I would have to have a 2lb residual valve. Which I have never had,after it sets for a couple of weeks I have to sometimes pump the pedal once or twice to get it back up but then it stays up. I understand that but my pedal will pump up & feel hard but will still go to the floor. When you have your foot on the pedal that should put more than 2 lbs of pressure and keep the fluid for running back. Unless my master cylinder got weak & I got another new wilwood master cylinder that was weak I am lost.

Anyone have any suggestion feel free to chime in. Wilwood said the steel braided lines I just replaced were not the problem. If after bleeding the brakes this afternoon if that is not the problem,I am back at square one.








I would put the residual valve in... reason is that
the old caliper most likely didnt have the roll back
boots to pull the piston back all the way and the
new ones do... the residual valve would correct that

Re: BRAKE TROUBLES [Re: MR_P_BODY] #986465
05/10/11 04:30 PM
05/10/11 04:30 PM
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,502
SOUTH JERSEY
HEMIFRED Offline OP
master
HEMIFRED  Offline OP
master

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,502
SOUTH JERSEY
I removed the 7/8" and used 1.125 it works now.7/8 not enough volume for double puck calipers also use residuals


home of the
Sox and Martin Hemi Duster


Re: BRAKE TROUBLES [Re: MRMOPAR622] #986466
05/11/11 10:41 AM
05/11/11 10:41 AM
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 877
ky
68roadrunner Offline
super stock
68roadrunner  Offline
super stock

Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 877
ky
my digger does not have a residual either

Re: BRAKE TROUBLES [Re: 68roadrunner] #986467
05/11/11 07:41 PM
05/11/11 07:41 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,008
Sweet Home Alabama
M
MRMOPAR622 Offline
top fuel
MRMOPAR622  Offline
top fuel
M

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,008
Sweet Home Alabama
This morning I got the tech. at Wilwood to understand that after bleeding and pumping the brakes up, I had about 1-1/2"-2" of travel then it would start to push the brake pads out on the rotors but the pedal would still go on down to the floor. He was thinking that I could get a good pedal but after taking my foot off the pedal then I would lose the pedal.And that was why he was saying I need a residual valve. He said it was very rare but the master cylinder must be defected send it back. But he said when I put another new one on should also put on a residual valve. I have never run one but might just put one on. I am willing to do just about anything to get brakes now.


"To Be The Man'You Have Got To Beat The Man" "T/D and Pro-Bracket Racer"
Page 2 of 2 1 2






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1