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idleing in gear problem #982298
04/28/11 10:51 PM
04/28/11 10:51 PM
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Columbus Ohio
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mopfried Offline OP
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Ok I have had an 850 dp demon and a 750 vac secondary carb on my 440 and when I drop in into gear it wants to stall. I am not using vac advance. I have a stock short block, 452 heads milled .100 to make them closed chambered. XE274 comp cam w/ 1.6 rockers, M1 intake, msd digital 6 ignition, Shumaker tri Y headers and full exhaust. 727 with a shift kit and a 220 stall convertor. The converter seems tight. The Holley is running 76 jets up front. If I raise the float level really high (did by mistake) it seems to help. Maybe too lean?

Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: mopfried] #982299
04/28/11 10:55 PM
04/28/11 10:55 PM
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Northern Indiana
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Sounds like you may need more initial timing.Try putting a couple more degrees in it and see if it improves,if so you might need to limit the mechanical advance and crank up the initial timing.
Keith

Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: mopfried] #982300
04/28/11 10:59 PM
04/28/11 10:59 PM
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Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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couple of thing's,,initial timing, are you using a mechanical advance or just not using the vac diaphragm, also if that all check's out then you might want to switch to a smaller air bleed in the idle circuit to richen it up a little.


Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: dartman366] #982301
04/28/11 11:34 PM
04/28/11 11:34 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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what's your initial now?


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: mopfried] #982302
04/28/11 11:52 PM
04/28/11 11:52 PM
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I think you hit it when you said converter is tight.

Last edited by wicked; 04/28/11 11:59 PM.
Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: wicked] #982303
04/29/11 12:30 AM
04/29/11 12:30 AM
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Columbus Ohio
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Its all mechanical advance. I dont remember what the inital is, I set the total at around 34. I have a unilte dist I may try. Its a little easyer to set the advance curve. Which are the idle air bleeds? The inside or outside.

Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: mopfried] #982304
04/29/11 12:48 AM
04/29/11 12:48 AM
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Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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Quote:

Its all mechanical advance. I dont remember what the inital is, I set the total at around 34. I have a unilte dist I may try. Its a little easyer to set the advance curve. Which are the idle air bleeds? The inside or outside.


outside if I remember correctly.


Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: Dunnuck Racing] #982305
04/29/11 09:37 AM
04/29/11 09:37 AM
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Michigan
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Quote:

Sounds like you may need more initial timing.Try putting a couple more degrees in it and see if it improves,if so you might need to limit the mechanical advance and crank up the initial timing.
Keith


what he said

Re: idleing in gear problem [Re: mopfried] #982306
04/29/11 09:44 AM
04/29/11 09:44 AM
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Virginia
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Quote:

If I raise the float level really high (did by mistake) it seems to help.




Besides what's already been suggested, check the relationship between the throttle plates and the transition slot at idle. The fact that raising the float level improved the situation leads me there.

No more than a "square" of t-slot should be exposed at idle. Much more, and you run the risk of partially idling on the main circuit, which is far more sensitive to float level.

As previously stated, ithe IABs are on the outside. If that 750 doesn't have screw-in air bleeds, you can partially block them with a small piece of wire, just for a test. Check the blade/t-slot relationship before you do that, though. And if you're still thinking you need more initial timing, do that before you do anything to the carb.

Re: idleing in gear problem [Re: JimG] #982307
04/29/11 09:48 AM
04/29/11 09:48 AM
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Columbus Ohio
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Thanks. I will bump the timing and if that dont do it I will check the slots. I dont think the cam is big enought to need a looser convertor.

Re: idleing in gear problem [Re: mopfried] #982308
04/29/11 10:14 AM
04/29/11 10:14 AM
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Branson, Mo.
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Quote:

Thanks. I will bump the timing and if that dont do it I will check the slots. I dont think the cam is big enought to need a looser convertor.




Yes your right, that cam is mild & should be fine with a 2-2200 stall, Play with the timing 1st., make sure all the ignition is in good shape too, & check for any vacuum leaks.


75 Duster, 451 10.87 @ 123.58 NA 97 Z28 6sp., 12.01 @ 115 on a 100 shot 71 Swinger. 360 magnum. 12.58 @ 105 78 cutlass, 469 BBC. 12.70 @ 108 on street tires. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2kqNmMfheU
Re: idleing in gear problem [Re: mopfried] #982309
04/29/11 10:15 AM
04/29/11 10:15 AM
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Ontario, Canada
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Looser converter will help a lot.
try the total timing at 38 if it don't ping that will help raise the idle advance.
maybe a lighter set of advance springs are in order too to get the idle advance "initial" a little higher.

One easy test is to advance it at idle say ten degrees and set the idle and see if you can get better idle there if you can turn back total and then lighter advance springs. (just a idle test no road test as your total will be 44) more idle advance will let you close the carb off to where the idle circit works better as well.

Re: idleing in gear problem [Re: mopfried] #982310
04/29/11 08:35 PM
04/29/11 08:35 PM
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Prospect, PA
BSB67 Offline
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1. Make sure you dont have a vacuum leak
2. Make sure that your initial timing does not change between the neutral and in-gear idle speed.
3. Try more initial timing.

Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: Dunnuck Racing] #982311
04/29/11 08:52 PM
04/29/11 08:52 PM
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Manitoba, Canada
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I would run more than a 2200 stall converter with that cam. Probably something more like a 2800. Converter + initial timing have a huge impact on rpm drop when going from neutral to drive.

Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: wicked] #982312
04/29/11 10:06 PM
04/29/11 10:06 PM
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Puyallup, WA
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Quote:

I think you hit it when you said converter is tight.






too tight of a converter for that much duration. Does it idle along okay if you take your foot off the brake and just let it roll along at idle? If so, I think its more the converter than tuning. I had this issue once, I helped myself out a lot by installing Rhodes lifters.


LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: StealthWedge67] #982313
04/30/11 01:55 AM
04/30/11 01:55 AM
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md
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Quote:

Quote:

I think you hit it when you said converter is tight.






too tight of a converter for that much duration. Does it idle along okay if you take your foot off the brake and just let it roll along at idle? If so, I think its more the converter than tuning. I had this issue once, I helped myself out a lot by installing Rhodes lifters.




rhoads do calm a cam down at idle. That cam is 236? @.050 doesn't sound like alot but Comp recommends 2.9k +. 2200 is pretty much a stock converter if it's even accurate. I would imagine you lose quite a bit of rpm between neutral and drive and it hits drive hard? Where are your rpm's at?

Last edited by wicked; 04/30/11 02:26 AM.
Re: ideling in gear problem [Re: wicked] #982314
05/02/11 10:27 PM
05/02/11 10:27 PM
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Columbus Ohio
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mopfried Offline OP
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I have advanced the timing all over the place, retuned the carb idle screws and idle speed. I think its too rich. it seemed better when the engine was cool. I can plug one of the primary idle bleeds an it slowes down, plug both of the and it almost dies. As far as the transfer slots go I had the timing up high enough the idle screw was barely turned. i backed off the secondary idke screw until it was shut.... nothing seems to help. The converter is tight.
idle at 1000 1100 and it drops into gear hard.

Re: ideling in gear problem [Re: mopfried] #982315
05/02/11 11:44 PM
05/02/11 11:44 PM
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Branson, Mo.
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joedust451 Offline
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Quote:

I have advanced the timing all over the place, retuned the carb idle screws and idle speed. I think its too rich. it seemed better when the engine was cool. I can plug one of the primary idle bleeds an it slowes down, plug both of the and it almost dies. As far as the transfer slots go I had the timing up high enough the idle screw was barely turned. i backed off the secondary idke screw until it was shut.... nothing seems to help. The converter is tight.
idle at 1000 1100 and it drops into gear hard.




Make sure the IABs are not stopped up, spray all 8 with carb cleaner, check the plugs & make sure they are not foiled at this point, i'll bet they are, You will play "hell" trying to get it tuned if they are , install a fresh set, then play with the timing, I still say that cam is mild, tuned in, it should hold around 12 in. of vacuum, we ran one in a mild 360 with a stock type converter & 3.91 gears, the RPM would only drop around 300, the torque was outstanding & it was a tire fryer, If all else fails, you may need to open up the primary IABs around .003", if you need any more help, feel free to PM me.


75 Duster, 451 10.87 @ 123.58 NA 97 Z28 6sp., 12.01 @ 115 on a 100 shot 71 Swinger. 360 magnum. 12.58 @ 105 78 cutlass, 469 BBC. 12.70 @ 108 on street tires. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2kqNmMfheU
Re: ideling in gear problem [Re: joedust451] #982316
05/04/11 07:34 AM
05/04/11 07:34 AM
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Columbus Ohio
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mopfried Offline OP
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I tried cleaning the idle bleeds and no help so I pulled the carb and checked the idle slots. They looked OK. I found the secondary shaft pretty loose. Probably enought to cause a vacuum leak. I had checked that with carb cleaner but it didnt show bad. My thought was to compare idle passages in the meteing block to another. Since the shaft was so loose I just put the BG 850 DP back on. It dosent seem to run as rich but still stalls when I drop it in gear... I have a Mallory unilite dist.... I put it in and guess what, the stalling quit? I dont understand. I know the total timing is way high. I will fix that tonight. Thank God for start retard!

Re: ideling in gear problem [Re: mopfried] #982317
05/04/11 10:04 AM
05/04/11 10:04 AM
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Branson, Mo.
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Quote:

I tried cleaning the idle bleeds and no help so I pulled the carb and checked the idle slots. They looked OK. I found the secondary shaft pretty loose. Probably enought to cause a vacuum leak. I had checked that with carb cleaner but it didnt show bad. My thought was to compare idle passages in the meteing block to another. Since the shaft was so loose I just put the BG 850 DP back on. It dosent seem to run as rich but still stalls when I drop it in gear... I have a Mallory unilite dist.... I put it in and guess what, the stalling quit? I dont understand. I know the total timing is way high. I will fix that tonight. Thank God for start retard!




Sounds like your just having a timing problem, you don't have enough int. timing, Is that Mallory adj., if so, i'd be setting it up around 16* int., 36* total all in around 24-2600. Once you get the bugs worked out you'll see i'm right about that cam, it will idle with a very mild converter.


75 Duster, 451 10.87 @ 123.58 NA 97 Z28 6sp., 12.01 @ 115 on a 100 shot 71 Swinger. 360 magnum. 12.58 @ 105 78 cutlass, 469 BBC. 12.70 @ 108 on street tires. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2kqNmMfheU
Re: ideling in gear problem [Re: joedust451] #982318
05/04/11 10:18 AM
05/04/11 10:18 AM
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Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:

Quote:

I tried cleaning the idle bleeds and no help so I pulled the carb and checked the idle slots. They looked OK. I found the secondary shaft pretty loose. Probably enought to cause a vacuum leak. I had checked that with carb cleaner but it didnt show bad. My thought was to compare idle passages in the meteing block to another. Since the shaft was so loose I just put the BG 850 DP back on. It dosent seem to run as rich but still stalls when I drop it in gear... I have a Mallory unilite dist.... I put it in and guess what, the stalling quit? I dont understand. I know the total timing is way high. I will fix that tonight. Thank God for start retard!




Sounds like your just having a timing problem, you don't have enough int. timing, Is that Mallory adj., if so, i'd be setting it up around 16* int., 36* total all in around 24-2600. Once you get the bugs worked out you'll see i'm right about that cam, it will idle with a very mild converter.






Convertor is fine, you need to understand what intial timing is and total timing. It needs more intial and then you have to limit total timing. That will fix it for sure. Basic tuning.

Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: Dunnuck Racing] #982319
05/04/11 10:18 AM
05/04/11 10:18 AM
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Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:

Sounds like you may need more initial timing.Try putting a couple more degrees in it and see if it improves,if so you might need to limit the mechanical advance and crank up the initial timing.
Keith





Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: Challenger 1] #982320
05/05/11 10:06 PM
05/05/11 10:06 PM
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IL . usa
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BG Demon carbs are designed to work with at least 20 deg of initial timing . just keep that in mind if you tune by what people tell you to set the timing at you will never figure it out yourself .
just turn the timing up until you get the best vacuum .
that is where i would leave the initial and adjust the advance from there to limit timing .every motor is differant.
Keith black has done tests and found that very little hp was recognized when advancing past 34 total timing .
with pump premium 93 36 38 could be risky . on a iron head motor .


1969 Dodge Charger 1969 Dodge Superbee
Re: ideling in ear problem [Re: cjs69mope] #982321
05/05/11 11:17 PM
05/05/11 11:17 PM
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Columbus Ohio
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I played around with it tonight. It now idles in gear without stalling. I limited the advance about half of what it was. I dont have the keys for setting the advance, but thats not a big deal if I get time to work on it. Dont know what the total is but It kinda surges when Im on it so I know the timing still isnt right. It didnt ping at all. I know the plugs need changed they are black. The old dist I had in it was a mallory dual point running only one set of points. I think that may have been a big part of the stalling along with the worn shaft on the 750 holley

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