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That's a 3/4 cam plus a 1.65 rocker so really its like a 7/8 cam. The only problem I see is the compression. Aluminum block and aluminum heads love compression. I think you will be really happy with your power level but left a lot on the table. To bad E85 is such a hassle finding in Pa. I look forward to seeing some passes at PRP.

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your right on the cam im not into "BIG" compression setups cause im to cheap to pay for race gas and drive streets mostly

Id like to see 800hp/725tq outta the combo

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New Combo(pump gas baby )
574CI World Aluminum Block
Good size custom comp 3/4 roller 112 wide and in at 108 from 112
11.89 to 1 compression

Dynamic compression ratio is 8.84:1
Dynamic cranking pressure is 180.84 PSI.
(calculated via wallace @ 0 altitude)

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Especially important when putting together a pump gas combo is the compression ratio and cam specs. I like your CR choice. What is the duration of that cam?
However, even a cam with "too much" duration for the CR will work OK with that much CID.

It should be close to your target even with that 0.680" lift cam (.75/1.65*1.5). 574 CID does wonders.

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Good luck Sledgie! Sounds like a real stout piece. Should be able to meet your goals easily.

Randy

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thx! all im down to is lifters and pushrods to finish up

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Come on Sledgie.... at least tell us when the intake closes..... 3/4 cam

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OK 73

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Are we supposed to guess tQ and Hp with the juice running

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naaaaaaaa! I just wanna hit a 9 NA on motor only and pump gas/radial tires! just always been my goal! after that its time to mess with the N2O

I did put on a good set of DA shocks for this year also! better brakes even so the car should be lighter also and ive been dieting as well

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Is the 73 @ 112 or 108?

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that was at 112 and thats all your getting outta me

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Prolly about a monthish out from being done with my new bullet but wanted to see what your guesss are! First time ever to go to dyno also so any tips to be prepared would be helpful also

Special thanks goes out to Competition Wedge on here for hooking me up with some new bottom end parts! Also like my new Superformance gasket set also thanks to the guys who sent some helpful pm's


New Combo(pump gas baby )
574CI World Aluminum Block
4.500*4.505
7.100 rod
Indy 440-1 CNC 345's from Best Machine
2.25*1.81 ferreas backcut
k motion k 1000H springs
Indy dominator pattern intake milled and ported
Good size custom comp 3/4 roller 112 wide and in at 108 from 112
TD rockers 1.65
Milodon GD
ATI balancer
Melling HV pump
windage tray
milodon static pickup
CVR 55GPM electric waterpump
11.89 to 1 compression

Dynamic compression ratio is 8.84:1
Dynamic cranking pressure is 180.84 PSI.
(calculated via wallace @ 0 altitude)

.051 quench
Diamond pistons cut deeper and rolled edges
Total seal rings
steel top .028
napier 2nd .032
Pro Systems SV1 (1212CFM)
TTI/Proparts 2-2 1/8th ceramic coated headers
MSD goods

tried to be detailed.... prolly forgot something though!

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I'll take a SWAG, on your dyno 900+ HP at or above 6300 RPM with 810 Ft. Lbs , on my dyno 845 HP with 775 Ft. lbs at 7000 RPM and on Drams dyno 510 HP at 5900 RPM with 550 ft. lbs on FL pump gas All kidding aside that motor should make 900 + HP on pump gas, be very careful on the ignition timing, spark plug heat range and jetting, richer is better to start with along with a cold plug

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Prolly about a monthish out from being done with my new bullet but wanted to see what your guesss are! First time ever to go to dyno also so any tips to be prepared would be helpful also

Special thanks goes out to Competition Wedge on here for hooking me up with some new bottom end parts! Also like my new Superformance gasket set also thanks to the guys who sent some helpful pm's


New Combo(pump gas baby )
574CI World Aluminum Block
4.500*4.505
7.100 rod
Indy 440-1 CNC 345's from Best Machine
2.25*1.81 ferreas backcut
k motion k 1000H springs
Indy dominator pattern intake milled and ported
Good size custom comp 3/4 roller 112 wide and in at 108 from 112
TD rockers 1.65
Milodon GD
ATI balancer
Melling HV pump
windage tray
milodon static pickup
CVR 55GPM electric waterpump
11.89 to 1 compression

Dynamic compression ratio is 8.84:1
Dynamic cranking pressure is 180.84 PSI.
(calculated via wallace @ 0 altitude)

.051 quench
Diamond pistons cut deeper and rolled edges
Total seal rings
steel top .028
napier 2nd .032
Pro Systems SV1 (1212CFM)
TTI/Proparts 2-2 1/8th ceramic coated headers
MSD goods

tried to be detailed.... prolly forgot something though!

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I'll take a SWAG, on your dyno 900+ HP at or above 6300 RPM with 810 Ft. Lbs , on my dyno 845 HP with 775 Ft. lbs at 7000 RPM and on Drams dyno 510 HP at 5900 RPM with 550 ft. lbs on FL pump gas All kidding aside that motor should make 900 + HP on pump gas, be very careful on the ignition timing, spark plug heat range and jetting, richer is better to start with along with a cold plug

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A quick question on quench..... Small blocks run .040 max.... is it the same for larger cube engines?

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....... .... is .051 a functional quench for a big block

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Prolly about a monthish out from being done with my new bullet but wanted to see what your guesss are! First time ever to go to dyno also so any tips to be prepared would be helpful also

Special thanks goes out to Competition Wedge on here for hooking me up with some new bottom end parts! Also like my new Superformance gasket set also thanks to the guys who sent some helpful pm's


New Combo(pump gas baby )
574CI World Aluminum Block
4.500*4.505
7.100 rod
Indy 440-1 CNC 345's from Best Machine
2.25*1.81 ferreas backcut
k motion k 1000H springs
Indy dominator pattern intake milled and ported
Good size custom comp 3/4 roller 112 wide and in at 108 from 112
TD rockers 1.65
Milodon GD
ATI balancer
Melling HV pump
windage tray
milodon static pickup
CVR 55GPM electric waterpump
11.89 to 1 compression

Dynamic compression ratio is 8.84:1
Dynamic cranking pressure is 180.84 PSI.
(calculated via wallace @ 0 altitude)

.051 quench
Diamond pistons cut deeper and rolled edges
Total seal rings
steel top .028
napier 2nd .032
Pro Systems SV1 (1212CFM)
TTI/Proparts 2-2 1/8th ceramic coated headers
MSD goods

tried to be detailed.... prolly forgot something though!

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I'll take a SWAG, on your dyno 900+ HP at or above 6300 RPM with 810 Ft. Lbs , on my dyno 845 HP with 775 Ft. lbs at 7000 RPM and on Drams dyno 510 HP at 5900 RPM with 550 ft. lbs on FL pump gas All kidding aside that motor should make 900 + HP on pump gas, be very careful on the ignition timing, spark plug heat range and jetting, richer is better to start with along with a cold plug

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on pump gas with a 3/4 cam I doubt it.

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sure is a pretty diamond piston though!

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11.89compression and pump gas? better make sure its good gas.

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Straight outta the pump 93 baby!!! cause thats the way I roll (cam should help )

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first i am not a motor head but i think sledge is real close on his 800 and 725. i just had a dart engine built at westech performance group with close to your specs and it came 823 and 738 on pump gas. it is to be a feature article in engine masters. may edition i hope. they were real concerned with compression and stopped at 10.5 to 1 for pump gas.

good luck sledge.

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thx! whenever the mag article come out let us know

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A quick question on quench..... Small blocks run .040 max.... is it the same for larger cube engines?

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....... .... is .051 a functional quench for a big block

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I'd just start another thread on that and I'd bet some of the top experts will comment on that! Just a hunch but they may tell you .040 is tight for BB and .055 may be the limit... Ask them though!

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@ this point I have no intention of building a big block so I really don't have to know the real answer, you didn't say on piston wall clearance so if they are loose and rock a lot than .051 may be fine I thought it was a simple question cause this is for the most part a big block thread ....

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As far as what to take to the dyno, everything! Tools, Spare valvetrain, plugs, gasket sealer, sparkplug wires, plugs, nuts, bolts,wiring,gasket material and sealer,carb linkage , spare crank trigger stuff, whatever you could possibly use in hook up,tuning or repairs you can do with it bolted to the dyno. Vacuum fittings in the intake? (they should have a gauge and readout.)You will find all sorts of things wrong at times. I found problems with sealing the motor up for the vacuum pump. I needed spare plugs to read for tuning. Found a pan leak. My motor plate was pushing against the shutoff valve on my injector, causing a leak. No dyno session, may have burned the car to the ground. Found a vacuum leak in the intake system. I needed thirty quarts of oil and three filters. Milked the oil once, did an ABA test with synthetic.
Questions for the dyno guy; whose ignition will we use? will my headers fit your setup? Look at the dyno hookups to make sure everything you have will fit. My headers wouldn't. Have the motor ready to fire (save for headers) to save time. Have a tuning plan, talk to the dyno guy first. Don't forget to ask the dyno guy what you should bring also. Oil pressure hookup? May be redundant, but something may have been overlooked. Looking forward to a great dyno report!

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thx for the pointers... I do plan on doing the NGK vs autolite plug pull scenario

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i hope it does show good numbers,because i know a w9 sb thats gonna be right w your hemi,in about a week or so,should see the sb dyno numbers true 11.1 compression ut ooooooooo lol good luck

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its a wedge...maybe HEMI for next year! who knows

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I'd just start another thread on that and I'd bet some of the top experts will comment on that! Just a hunch but they may tell you .040 is tight for BB and .055 may be the limit... Ask them though!

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I am not an expert, but don't forget with an aluminum block and heads, you will get .010" growth, so the quench distance will grow as well...

You should have .061" after all ????

Good luck on the dyno!

Arnie

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I'd just start another thread on that and I'd bet some of the top experts will comment on that! Just a hunch but they may tell you .040 is tight for BB and .055 may be the limit... Ask them though!

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I am not an expert, but don't forget with an aluminum block and heads, you will get .010" growth, so the quench distance will grow as well...

You should have .061" after all ????

Good luck on the dyno!

Arnie

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I'd just start another thread on that and I'd bet some of the top experts will comment on that! Just a hunch but they may tell you .040 is tight for BB and .055 may be the limit... Ask them though!

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I am not an expert, but don't forget with an aluminum block and heads, you will get .010" growth, so the quench distance will grow as well...

You should have .061" after all ????

Good luck on the dyno!

Arnie

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the length of the sleeve doesn't change, therefore the quench will be the same.

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As I said, I am no expert, but if the lash grows .010" how does that not increase the quench?

Please explain...

Thanks,

Arnie

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Quote:

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Quote:

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Quote:

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I'd just start another thread on that and I'd bet some of the top experts will comment on that! Just a hunch but they may tell you .040 is tight for BB and .055 may be the limit... Ask them though!

---

I am not an expert, but don't forget with an aluminum block and heads, you will get .010" growth, so the quench distance will grow as well...

You should have .061" after all ????

Good luck on the dyno!

Arnie

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the length of the sleeve doesn't change, therefore the quench will be the same.

---

As I said, I am no expert, but if the lash grows .010" how does that not increase the quench?

Please explain...

Thanks,

Arnie

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Quote:

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Quote:

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As far as what to take to the dyno, everything! Tools, Spare valvetrain, plugs, gasket sealer, sparkplug wires, plugs, nuts, bolts,wiring,gasket material and sealer,carb linkage , spare crank trigger stuff, whatever you could possibly use in hook up,tuning or repairs you can do with it bolted to the dyno. Vacuum fittings in the intake? (they should have a gauge and readout.)You will find all sorts of things wrong at times. I found problems with sealing the motor up for the vacuum pump. I needed spare plugs to read for tuning. Found a pan leak. My motor plate was pushing against the shutoff valve on my injector, causing a leak. No dyno session, may have burned the car to the ground. Found a vacuum leak in the intake system. I needed thirty quarts of oil and three filters. Milked the oil once, did an ABA test with synthetic.
Questions for the dyno guy; whose ignition will we use? will my headers fit your setup? Look at the dyno hookups to make sure everything you have will fit. My headers wouldn't. Have the motor ready to fire (save for headers) to save time. Have a tuning plan, talk to the dyno guy first. Don't forget to ask the dyno guy what you should bring also. Oil pressure hookup? May be redundant, but something may have been overlooked. Looking forward to a great dyno report!

---

thx for the pointers... I do plan on doing the NGK vs autolite plug pull scenario

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Quote:

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Quote:

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As far as what to take to the dyno, everything! Tools, Spare valvetrain, plugs, gasket sealer, sparkplug wires, plugs, nuts, bolts,wiring,gasket material and sealer,carb linkage , spare crank trigger stuff, whatever you could possibly use in hook up,tuning or repairs you can do with it bolted to the dyno. Vacuum fittings in the intake? (they should have a gauge and readout.)You will find all sorts of things wrong at times. I found problems with sealing the motor up for the vacuum pump. I needed spare plugs to read for tuning. Found a pan leak. My motor plate was pushing against the shutoff valve on my injector, causing a leak. No dyno session, may have burned the car to the ground. Found a vacuum leak in the intake system. I needed thirty quarts of oil and three filters. Milked the oil once, did an ABA test with synthetic.
Questions for the dyno guy; whose ignition will we use? will my headers fit your setup? Look at the dyno hookups to make sure everything you have will fit. My headers wouldn't. Have the motor ready to fire (save for headers) to save time. Have a tuning plan, talk to the dyno guy first. Don't forget to ask the dyno guy what you should bring also. Oil pressure hookup? May be redundant, but something may have been overlooked. Looking forward to a great dyno report!

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thx for the pointers... I do plan on doing the NGK vs autolite plug pull scenario

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I am really interested in the plug test!

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Ngk R5671A-7 vs which autolite would you like to see?

down to lifters and pushrods......

Quote:

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Quote:

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Quote:

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Quote:

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As far as what to take to the dyno, everything! Tools, Spare valvetrain, plugs, gasket sealer, sparkplug wires, plugs, nuts, bolts,wiring,gasket material and sealer,carb linkage , spare crank trigger stuff, whatever you could possibly use in hook up,tuning or repairs you can do with it bolted to the dyno. Vacuum fittings in the intake? (they should have a gauge and readout.)You will find all sorts of things wrong at times. I found problems with sealing the motor up for the vacuum pump. I needed spare plugs to read for tuning. Found a pan leak. My motor plate was pushing against the shutoff valve on my injector, causing a leak. No dyno session, may have burned the car to the ground. Found a vacuum leak in the intake system. I needed thirty quarts of oil and three filters. Milked the oil once, did an ABA test with synthetic.
Questions for the dyno guy; whose ignition will we use? will my headers fit your setup? Look at the dyno hookups to make sure everything you have will fit. My headers wouldn't. Have the motor ready to fire (save for headers) to save time. Have a tuning plan, talk to the dyno guy first. Don't forget to ask the dyno guy what you should bring also. Oil pressure hookup? May be redundant, but something may have been overlooked. Looking forward to a great dyno report!

---

thx for the pointers... I do plan on doing the NGK vs autolite plug pull scenario

---

I am really interested in the plug test!

---

Ngk R5671A-7 vs which autolite would you like to see?

down to lifters and pushrods......

---

Quote:

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Quote:

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Quote:

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Quote:

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As far as what to take to the dyno, everything! Tools, Spare valvetrain, plugs, gasket sealer, sparkplug wires, plugs, nuts, bolts,wiring,gasket material and sealer,carb linkage , spare crank trigger stuff, whatever you could possibly use in hook up,tuning or repairs you can do with it bolted to the dyno. Vacuum fittings in the intake? (they should have a gauge and readout.)You will find all sorts of things wrong at times. I found problems with sealing the motor up for the vacuum pump. I needed spare plugs to read for tuning. Found a pan leak. My motor plate was pushing against the shutoff valve on my injector, causing a leak. No dyno session, may have burned the car to the ground. Found a vacuum leak in the intake system. I needed thirty quarts of oil and three filters. Milked the oil once, did an ABA test with synthetic.
Questions for the dyno guy; whose ignition will we use? will my headers fit your setup? Look at the dyno hookups to make sure everything you have will fit. My headers wouldn't. Have the motor ready to fire (save for headers) to save time. Have a tuning plan, talk to the dyno guy first. Don't forget to ask the dyno guy what you should bring also. Oil pressure hookup? May be redundant, but something may have been overlooked. Looking forward to a great dyno report!

---

thx for the pointers... I do plan on doing the NGK vs autolite plug pull scenario

---

I am really interested in the plug test!

---

Ngk R5671A-7 vs which autolite would you like to see?

down to lifters and pushrods......

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