Got a Moog (O.E. look) idler arm for my '69 GTX and there is a .010" (ten thousands) less difference on the big end that goes in the K-frame clevis to what I think is the original idler arm. A new bolt, washer and crimp nut are provided with the new Moog idler arm and with an impact I can draw the K-frame clevis together until the idler arm almost locks or gets very hard to move. Now I thought the idler arm pivots around the center bushing and should be "pinched" between the K-frame clevis and that no matter how tight you make the bolt the idler arm should still move fairly freely. Should, or does I should ask, the idler arm pivot around the center bushing? There's a grease zerk on the big end so I thought that's how it works? Don't understand why if I tighten the bolt for the idler arm it gets so hard to move? I think I could tighten the bolt to the point of freezing it
One other note or observation; right when I get the bolt tight enough that the .010" up and down clearance is out and I know the K-frame clevis has touched the ends of the idler arm center bushing; at that point I can move the idler arm back and forth like there's play in, (this will sound stupid), like the play in gear to gear?
Then I tighten the bolt a little more and the (gear?) play is gone then the idler arm is very hard to move???
Thanks for any help.
MikeR