69 Satelite,528 hemi. This is mainly a street car and still uses a modified vb that retains auto function. Short story, went to a regional outlaw track for a fun run/race. Poor track prep, hooked hard on drag radials, got out about 30 ft and the tires broke loose/hooked up again and busted my sprag. In thirty years of street driving and bracket racing, this is the first time that I broke a trans and don't want to repeat it. Would upgrading to the Coan super sprag be a worthwhile investment? Are they just harder to break, or virtually unbrakeable? Do you have to do any other mods to use one? I looked on their site and read the instructions and it is basically a bolt in, I have a good torqueflite guy who builds my transmissions. I really dont know much about automatics, so any advice is welcome! Thanks, Lee.

What exactly broke? I don't see any drawback to the super srag other than the cost. It has more rollers , they are a bit smaller in diameter , but the added amount of rollers makes it virtually impossible for the rollers to lay over which in turn allows the front drum or overspeed and EXPLODE should it reach that critical mass RPM. But making it so the rollers can not rollover will find the next potential weakness ... THE CASE .... but the Super sprag is a bolt in and I assume it's a 6 bolt like the A+A spag I just installed in a street trans I'm building. If so make sure you add the extra bolts if your trans has a 4 bolt rear support, it will require drilling holes in the case and potentially doing a little machining to the case. I spot faced where the new bolts sit and I think on a 1970 case I did I had to do some minor machining of a boss that was in the way, I counterbored it.

Short of it ... DO IT , you may or may not want to think about putting in a billet drum , the Super sprag will be extra insurance if you get a billet front drum.

Don't know yet what all broke, I took it to my trans guy friday afternoon. He says that they frequently break the case internally when the sprag goes, but I saw nothing on the outside. I don't mind spending the money for the added safety factor, just wanted to make sure what else I might need to get to do the job. Any suggestions for other improvements ? Thanks!

OTHER than a low band apply manual VB ... there is NO WAY to get-away from the possibility of "busting" a sprag. I think that the aftermarket sprags are just another way dip-DEEP into your wallet.

I would just INSIST on better track-prep ....

..then have an uNdestructible front drum IN THERE ... like the steel one ..or the steel jacketed alum one.

well I can tell you that the Coan super sprag is using the sprag out of a ford c-6 trans and in 25 years in the business I have never seen a c-6 roll a sprag like the stock 727 do and that is because like stated above there are more rollers and there is just not enough room to roll them.
They are the only bolt in sprag that does anything for you other than save a bad case.

.... so the Coan sprag for a TF is an exact C-6 piece ?

They both are 16 element.

c6 sprag

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Ahhhhhh ..... ... now go to yerr PROCTOLOGIST !

Yurrr head is stuck up-there so often that surgery in-that-area must be a weekly-thing ferr you ... and this FINGER must be a hourly occurance ...

Now where IS the flippinthebirdatRR smilie when I need-it ? ... !!

some good info here.i am needing to fix my sprag so if there are any result or info i would like to hear it.
Thanks!

Put in either the Coan or the A&A 16 element sprag. It will be just fine on the street. The only draw back is cost. We had a customer break a rear end with a 727 and a Coan Supersprag. The Sprag held, but was damaged. Most importantly it held and didn't overrun the drum.
Larry

thanks i just checked that out at coan.my rollers ran over most of the springs in there going from what is in my pan.