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Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... #941769
03/03/11 12:36 AM
03/03/11 12:36 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe Offline OP
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roe  Offline OP
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Central TX
How hard is it? I have a 360 in a 71 B body and it looks like I will just have to drop *center link*

It looks like its just a matter of me over-tightening the bolts when I didnt have my torque wrench. But now I have one so that shouldnt be a problem.

I have the standard cork with rubber end gaskets now, but I think Im going to upgrade to the rubber coated with rubber endgaskets. Do I use any gasket maker with the rubber coated style one (part #1807 @ autozone)? Anything I need to look out for? Any mods I need to make that help it seal better? The leak just started and Ive already crawled under it while its running and verified that its leaking from the front drivers side corner, and want to get it fixed asap.

thanks
roe

Last edited by roe; 03/03/11 01:18 AM.


1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: roe] #941770
03/03/11 12:49 AM
03/03/11 12:49 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 70,126
Here
DirectSubjection Offline
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Quote:

How hard is it? I have a 360 in a 71 B body and it looks like I will just have to drop one part of the steering linkage, not sure of the name of the piece. Its the long piece that connects the left and right sides of the steering linkage





Centerlink

That's what I had to move to do the 383 in my Duster.


Ride eternal, shiny and chrome
Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: DirectSubjection] #941771
03/03/11 01:19 AM
03/03/11 01:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe Offline OP
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roe  Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

How hard is it? I have a 360 in a 71 B body and it looks like I will just have to drop one part of the steering linkage, not sure of the name of the piece. Its the long piece that connects the left and right sides of the steering linkage





Centerlink

That's what I had to move to do the 383 in my Duster.




Centerlink sounds much better. Any idea of whether to add anything to the rubber coated gasket, or just gasket and go?



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: roe] #941772
03/03/11 01:31 AM
03/03/11 01:31 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
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Personal tastes will vary, but I usually cement the gasket to the part that is removed: To the oil pan, to the timing cover, etc. This way if I need to pull something off, theres a chance that the gasket will stick to the part and not the block. In some cases, you can even reuse the gasket.

Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: Kern Dog] #941773
03/03/11 01:37 AM
03/03/11 01:37 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe Offline OP
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roe  Offline OP
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Quote:

Personal tastes will vary, but I usually cement the gasket to the part that is removed: To the oil pan, to the timing cover, etc. This way if I need to pull something off, theres a chance that the gasket will stick to the part and not the block. In some cases, you can even reuse the gasket.




you mean with rubber cement? If so would it need to be a high temp rubber cement, if there is such a thing?



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: roe] #941774
03/03/11 01:39 AM
03/03/11 01:39 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
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I'm sorry, I meant to say adhere! I use Permatex Ultra gray or Mopar RTV, whichever I have at the time. The term "cement" was meant as a verb, as in to adhere.

Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: Kern Dog] #941775
03/03/11 01:44 AM
03/03/11 01:44 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
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Central TX
roe Offline OP
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roe  Offline OP
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Quote:

I'm sorry, I meant to say adhere! I use Permatex Ultra gray or Mopar RTV, whichever I have at the time. The term "cement" was meant as a verb, as in to adhere.




Oh, ok. And that doesnt cause a problem with a rubber coated gasket, I just dont want to have to do it twice, or thrice...



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: roe] #941776
03/03/11 04:28 AM
03/03/11 04:28 AM
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Posts: 30,460
Florida STAYcation
dOOc Offline
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BE SURE not to OVERtorque the pan-bolts and make-sure the pan rail is flat.

Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: dOOc] #941777
03/05/11 01:39 PM
03/05/11 01:39 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe Offline OP
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does the suspension need to be loaded or unloaded to remove the centerlink



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: roe] #941778
03/05/11 01:45 PM
03/05/11 01:45 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,840
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda Offline
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Quote:

does the suspension need to be loaded or unloaded to remove the centerlink




Can be done either way, I prefer unloaded. ALSO--you will find that if you pop the centerlink off the pitman and idler you can pull it down (because of the tie rods) enough to get pan clearance--You don't have to pop the tie-rods to centerlink. Easier, and preserves your front end toe setting.
You'll definately want an unloaded suspension to do this!!!

Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #941779
03/05/11 03:05 PM
03/05/11 03:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,588
St. John's Newfoundland
440newport Offline
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I tried to do it last year in my Mirada and it didn't work out. I couldn't get the front and rear rubber seals to sit right and they wanted to push the cork gaskets out of place. After I was done it leaked in the front corners. 2 months later I ended up pulling the motor to do it right.
This was with a milodon pan though, might not be so bad with a stock pan.

Re: Changing oil pan gasket with motor in car... [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #941780
03/05/11 10:07 PM
03/05/11 10:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe Offline OP
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roe  Offline OP
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Posts: 3,344
Central TX
Quote:

Quote:

does the suspension need to be loaded or unloaded to remove the centerlink




Can be done either way, I prefer unloaded. ALSO--you will find that if you pop the centerlink off the pitman and idler you can pull it down (because of the tie rods) enough to get pan clearance--You don't have to pop the tie-rods to centerlink. Easier, and preserves your front end toe setting.
You'll definately want an unloaded suspension to do this!!!




Thanks for the tip.



1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG






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