Re: starting problems
[Re: AB&E]
#935811
02/23/11 09:30 PM
02/23/11 09:30 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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See if you have fire at the brown wire end of the ballast in "start" & if not trace it back to the bulkhead on the firewall & open the bulkhead & see if that particular brass terminal pair is not corroded and that the brass terminal half on the cabin side has fire in "start" & if not go inside to the ign sw & see if the "ST" terminal on the back of it has fire in "start" EDIT meant "ign2" terminal
Last edited by RapidRobert; 02/27/11 11:28 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: starting problems
[Re: RapidRobert]
#935812
02/24/11 11:10 AM
02/24/11 11:10 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,076
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,076
Niles , Ohio
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Typically the ballast is either bad or good.No inbetweens.Id say its the ignition switch.Sounds like its sometimes hitting the power spot and sometimes its not.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: starting problems
[Re: MoparforLife]
#935815
02/24/11 02:45 PM
02/24/11 02:45 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Quote:
easy to swap a out a couple buck ballast. They are either good or bad -no in between. This is a typical symptom of a faulty ballast.
THIS IS NOT a symptom of a bad ballast
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Re: starting problems
[Re: Yancy Derringer]
#935816
02/24/11 03:01 PM
02/24/11 03:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Quote:
easy to swap a out a couple buck ballast. They are either good or bad -no in between. This is a typical symptom of a faulty ballast.
THIS IS NOT a symptom of a bad ballast
OH OK> But have seen several where in the process of spinning the engine and releasing the key the spin happens to hit on the firing circuit just right and the engine starts.If it doesn't hit just right when the key is let off on - no go. Check (replace the ballast)
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Re: starting problems
[Re: MoparforLife]
#935817
02/24/11 11:00 PM
02/24/11 11:00 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
easy to swap a out a couple buck ballast. They are either good or bad -no in between. This is a typical symptom of a faulty ballast.
THIS IS NOT a symptom of a bad ballast
OH OK> But have seen several where in the process of spinning the engine and releasing the key the spin happens to hit on the firing circuit just right and the engine starts.If it doesn't hit just right when the key is let off on - no go. Check (replace the ballast)
That's not "how it works."
The key "run" circuit goes THROUGH the ballast,
So when you are in "crank" the "bypass" circuit FROM THE KEY feeds hot 12V to the coil.
so you have an "either or" situation.
IF the ballast is BAD, you get a nice hot spark from the "bypass" circuit in crank, and the engine will fire, but quit when released to run
IF the ballast is GOOD, but the start bypass circuit bad, then you'll get low voltage during "crank." This is because the battery is being pulled down by the starter, and the ballast FURTHER drops the voltage to the ignition. So without the bypass circuit, the car may or may not start
So one last time. The way the OP described the problem, it is NOT a ballast problem.
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Re: starting problems
[Re: Yancy Derringer]
#935818
02/25/11 03:37 AM
02/25/11 03:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
easy to swap a out a couple buck ballast. They are either good or bad -no in between. This is a typical symptom of a faulty ballast.
THIS IS NOT a symptom of a bad ballast
OH OK> But have seen several where in the process of spinning the engine and releasing the key the spin happens to hit on the firing circuit just right and the engine starts.If it doesn't hit just right when the key is let off on - no go. Check (replace the ballast)
That's not "how it works."
The key "run" circuit goes THROUGH the ballast,
So when you are in "crank" the "bypass" circuit FROM THE KEY feeds hot 12V to the coil.
so you have an "either or" situation.
IF the ballast is BAD, you get a nice hot spark from the "bypass" circuit in crank, and the engine will fire, but quit when released to run
IF the ballast is GOOD, but the start bypass circuit bad, then you'll get low voltage during "crank." This is because the battery is being pulled down by the starter, and the ballast FURTHER drops the voltage to the ignition. So without the bypass circuit, the car may or may not start
So one last time. The way the OP described the problem, it is NOT a ballast problem.
All fine and good IF you are not working with a dual ballast resistor with a start side and the start side is the side that is blown out and the run side is good. They can at times catch on the run side if the switch happens to be released at the right time.
Likely Will not be a ballast if using the single ballast resistor system.
Been there done that.
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Re: starting problems
[Re: MoparforLife]
#935819
02/25/11 02:14 PM
02/25/11 02:14 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Quote:
All fine and good IF you are not working with a dual ballast resistor with a start side and the start side is the side that is blown out and the run side is good. They can at times catch on the run side if the switch happens to be released at the right time.
Likely Will not be a ballast if using the single ballast resistor system.
Been there done that.
THERE IS NO SUCH THING as
"a start side and a run side" of a "dual ballast."
THAT IS NOT HOW THESE WORK and THERE IS NO OPERATIONAL DIFFERENCE between a "dual" and a "single" ballast
It works EXACTLY as I described above. It does NOT matter whether it's a 2 or 4 terminal ballast.
Please STOP spreading incorrect information
ONE SIDE of a "dual" ballast works exactly as the "single" ballast works and in fact the "coil" side of the "dual" ballast is wired and works exactly the same as if the vehicle had a points type distributor.
THE OTHER SIDE of a "dual" ballast IS USED INTERNALLY by the so called older "5 pin" ECU and has NOTHING TO DO with the run/ start bypass circuit
IN FACT a so called "4 pin" ECU can be plugged into a "dual ballast" harness and it will function just as well. THE ONLY PLACE that the downstream terminal of the "other half" of the dual ballast feeds is the box itself. In a 4 pin ECU it goes to a "dead pin" and does nothing at all
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