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I have seen Eric mention it a couple times here, but I don't think emphatically enough...........guys the front of the car, HAS TO WORK, before you can do anything with the rear. The front shocks and suspension, are likely just as important, maybe more so, than the rear. I see guys all the time with nice shocks on the rear and junk 3-ways on the front. When the car still won't work, they surmise the good shocks were a waste of money. Got to make the front work.

And while we are talking about front shocks, let me just say that every car out there, does NOT need 7" of travel and loosey goosey shocks in the front. In these days of power, good tires, good tracks and good suspension, a ton of pitch rotation, like was needed in the past, is just not a requirement these days. Most will work with a relatively stiff front setup.

Hey Eric, I know the guys at TRZ had mentioned to you a project I had going on a Holley. Did you ever get a chance to look into that

Thanks

Monte

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Actually gents, I have know Eric and the guys at Afco for some time now.

Eric is a good guy and has helped me in every way he can. He is also going to be re-valving my shocks for me to help slow down the violent seperation that is happening in the car.

Once Eric gets his feet wet here, and everyone gets to know him and his product, Im sure we will see more "blue" shocks at the track....

Im actually suprised wild bill doesnt have a set already, just based on the fact that they are blue!

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Actually gents, I have know Eric and the guys at Afco for some time now.

Eric is a good guy and has helped me in every way he can. He is also going to be re-valving my shocks for me to help slow down the violent seperation that is happening in the car.

Once Eric gets his feet wet here, and everyone gets to know him and his product, Im sure we will see more "blue" shocks at the track....

Im actually suprised wild bill doesnt have a set already, just based on the fact that they are blue!

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Hey Josh, can you re-post the link of your car slapping the wheelie bars? It's the same one you sent to me previously I believe.

This video shows the wheelie bars pounding the track as the car launches. This example is another good place to spend a few minutes... As the wheelie bars hit, they relieve load from the tire contact patch. If too much load is taken away, tire slip or flat out spin can occur. This is a good example of a need for stiffer shocks to properly control the rear housing..If you see this happening to your car, chances are that traction is getting compromised..

What do you guys think? How does this apply to what you are doing?

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What is wheelie bars and why do you need them...1.23 short time best with consistent sub 1.30's with junk single adjustable qa1's on back and double's on front...No bars/28x10.5's/3300#/glide and 3.89 rear gears...And yes that's a real question,why do you need sissy bars and the benifit of them!!!!!!

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Actually gents, I have know Eric and the guys at Afco for some time now.

Eric is a good guy and has helped me in every way he can. He is also going to be re-valving my shocks for me to help slow down the violent seperation that is happening in the car.

Once Eric gets his feet wet here, and everyone gets to know him and his product, Im sure we will see more "blue" shocks at the track....

Im actually suprised wild bill doesnt have a set already, just based on the fact that they are blue!

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Hey Josh, can you re-post the link of your car slapping the wheelie bars? It's the same one you sent to me previously I believe.

This video shows the wheelie bars pounding the track as the car launches. This example is another good place to spend a few minutes... As the wheelie bars hit, they relieve load from the tire contact patch. If too much load is taken away, tire slip or flat out spin can occur. This is a good example of a need for stiffer shocks to properly control the rear housing..If you see this happening to your car, chances are that traction is getting compromised..

What do you guys think? How does this apply to what you are doing?

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What is wheelie bars and why do you need them...1.23 short time best with consistent sub 1.30's with junk single adjustable qa1's on back and double's on front...No bars/28x10.5's/3300#/glide and 3.89 rear gears...And yes that's a real question,why do you need sissy bars and the benifit of them!!!!!!

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Gary, you really know how to hurt a guys feelings....

I truly had the bars on for the first couple outings as I had never driven the car before, and had no idea what it was going to do...but dont worry, I will take them off when im kickin your rear at the moparts race hahahaha.....

Here is the link showing the car slapping the bars, and another view of the car further down track

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=098GfgWmXuk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GY3zKnAUhqQ

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Josh....There's no way i would run a turbo car without bars,seen to many of them do crazy things down track and with your new combo i probaly want be able to hang but i will spray it till i kill it trying...Eric,if my local series allowed bars i would probaly have them on.I don't like to think about how much money i spent on frontends after all the moon shots.No problems now,but it did take lots of testing and shocks did help greatly...I think its great what your doing on the forum with shocks as they are not easily understood,me included and i'm sure i could improve with better shocks and understanding...Gary,oh yea welcome aboard the water is only luke warm here most of the time!!!!!!!!!

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eric, i have problem that only a few on this board can relate to.

on my dragster, 4 link rocker arm setup, with the (apparently) first generation afco shocks.

the car worked really good with previous owners setup 565 bbc and glide, mine is a 499 mopar/glide.

the car 60s pretty consistent, but the 60-330 #s change. when the track is hot and slick it actually runs quicker. i jetted the carb up and rulled out fuel. lowered top bar in the front with no change.

ideas on shock adjustments here, or replacement of shock is possible.


my ideas for this spring, move battery out of nose, to put more weight on rear tires, raise launch chip from 4600, add more rear gear from 4.10 to 4.29 to hit tire harder.

any ideas appreciated.

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eric, i have problem that only a few on this board can relate to.

on my dragster, 4 link rocker arm setup, with the (apparently) first generation afco shocks.

the car worked really good with previous owners setup 565 bbc and glide, mine is a 499 mopar/glide.

the car 60s pretty consistent, but the 60-330 #s change. when the track is hot and slick it actually runs quicker. i jetted the carb up and rulled out fuel. lowered top bar in the front with no change.

ideas on shock adjustments here, or replacement of shock is possible.


my ideas for this spring, move battery out of nose, to put more weight on rear tires, raise launch chip from 4600, add more rear gear from 4.10 to 4.29 to hit tire harder.

any ideas appreciated.

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It almost sounds to me like the converter is too tight. Follow me here. If the tires are slipping out in the middle and the car picks up; it sounds like the converter is too tight for the setup. Basically the engine is getting into the rpm range that it likes when the tires are slippinng out there.

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eric, i have problem that only a few on this board can relate to.

on my dragster, 4 link rocker arm setup, with the (apparently) first generation afco shocks.

the car worked really good with previous owners setup 565 bbc and glide, mine is a 499 mopar/glide.

the car 60s pretty consistent, but the 60-330 #s change. when the track is hot and slick it actually runs quicker. i jetted the carb up and rulled out fuel. lowered top bar in the front with no change.

ideas on shock adjustments here, or replacement of shock is possible.


my ideas for this spring, move battery out of nose, to put more weight on rear tires, raise launch chip from 4600, add more rear gear from 4.10 to 4.29 to hit tire harder.

any ideas appreciated.

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It almost sounds to me like the converter is too tight. Follow me here. If the tires are slipping out in the middle and the car picks up; it sounds like the converter is too tight for the setup. Basically the engine is getting into the rpm range that it likes when the tires are slippinng out there.

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Thats the samething I have seen

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eric, i have problem that only a few on this board can relate to.

on my dragster, 4 link rocker arm setup, with the (apparently) first generation afco shocks.

the car worked really good with previous owners setup 565 bbc and glide, mine is a 499 mopar/glide.

the car 60s pretty consistent, but the 60-330 #s change. when the track is hot and slick it actually runs quicker. i jetted the carb up and rulled out fuel. lowered top bar in the front with no change.

ideas on shock adjustments here, or replacement of shock is possible.


my ideas for this spring, move battery out of nose, to put more weight on rear tires, raise launch chip from 4600, add more rear gear from 4.10 to 4.29 to hit tire harder.

any ideas appreciated.

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eric, i have problem that only a few on this board can relate to.

on my dragster, 4 link rocker arm setup, with the (apparently) first generation afco shocks.

the car worked really good with previous owners setup 565 bbc and glide, mine is a 499 mopar/glide.

the car 60s pretty consistent, but the 60-330 #s change. when the track is hot and slick it actually runs quicker. i jetted the carb up and rulled out fuel. lowered top bar in the front with no change.

ideas on shock adjustments here, or replacement of shock is possible.


my ideas for this spring, move battery out of nose, to put more weight on rear tires, raise launch chip from 4600, add more rear gear from 4.10 to 4.29 to hit tire harder.

any ideas appreciated.

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I don't know that I would move the battery. Seems to me it would make the problem worse. If I understand correctly a slick track is a fast track for you. So adding bite with weight or by lowering the top four link bar is going to make the car hook harder and lower the wheel speed. I have some of the same issues but my 60 ft is affected. I run faster with less bite. I tried several converters ranging 1,500 in stall speed. Big stall would get the RPM up but would suffer 60 ft and MPH and stabilize the 60-330 increment. I want to try a tighter converter in my application and take bite out. I think you may have a decent converter just need to get rid of some bite as long as you don't loose 60ft. Just me thinking out loud.

leon

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I would think he would need to lower the IC but still
maintain about the same IC length... with the lower
IC it hits the tire less BUT holds the hit longer
so I would have to ask what is the IC length and height
now... with lowering the top bar all you did was
shorten the IC length which does lift more weight
from farther back

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mr p cant remember exactly and cant get to my book right now. it is at 3-4" off the ground and maybe 40-50" out, with bar one hole higher it was -1to-2" at around 80" i think. the change made no difference

thanks for the help guys

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Can you get a point thats about the same IC length
but lower... you showed lower but that was 30" longer

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i am sure i can, will have to try it when i get it out, i do see what you and everyone here is saying. actually to much bit for the setup. if you tighten the extension on the shock would that help, or make unmanagable?