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Are you wanting to lower your ET or to get more consistency (or both)

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vac adv? (I'm assuming not) #1 is if the bushing play is good which it generally is. #2 got an adv curve or locked out? If no vac adv could drill a vertical hole thru both plates and lock them solid (use a spacer on your mini bolt between the 2 plates) so it is not tilted as you tighten it, You're goal is to elim all play/keep everything stable. As you know check reluctor gap & want .006-8 on the tightest tooth (they can vary slightly) & better yet mill it so each one is the same. Get the rotor phasing dead on. try extending the rotor outer tip w solder as a large gap is wasted spark enrgy. 2 functions: trigger the current/proper adv curve & want no slop anywhere

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I would unhook the vac adv & shorten the slots for 35 total. Not sure what you would want the initial set at and what springs you would want as a full time 1/4 miler is out of my experience (a streeter you'd use the vac gauge method for the initial then the total to 35 (no vac adv hooked up or if used you unplug it & get 35 then replug it in) and springs that would keep you just under the pinging point @WOT on your hottest/driest day up thru the gears) and the initial would be finalized then the total then the springs. drill a 1/2" hole in the flat top of your dist cap about halfway between the center terminal and #1 terminal and in your driveway shine your timing light straight down on it to freeze it like what a strobe light does on a dance floor w the eng speed high enough to where the springs are all the way advanced & see if the rotor tip is dead on or near dead on to the underside of the #1 cap terminal (phasing). 1st narrow the tip to about 1/16" & extend the tip w solder to ~.030" or so & if (at speed) it is too far clockwise then w a vacuum pump crank in vac until the rotor shifts CCW enough till it is lined up & note the amt of vac needed on the gauge then shut it down/dissassemble the dist & vertically drill/pin the 2 plates w that amt of vac applied 1st to lock the phasing in that position. You want a dist w minimal play/check & correct phasing/disable/plug vac adv/finalize initial/shorten for 35 total/springs/equalize reluctor teeth/set gap at .008/extend and narrow rotor tip/toss the thick spring w the long loop/may need to add a spring to replace the heavy one you tossed. If the phasing needs to b shifted CW might exp w going to the other roll pin hole,

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Just not sure if I should go with the MSD or the Mopar one & would I actually see any performance improvement.

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Just not sure if I should go with the MSD or the Mopar one & would I actually see any performance improvement.

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You'd see an improvement from the stock curve if you maxed out the initial/total/springs/elim the vac adv (strip only) but not alot of consistency improv unless the side play is way out of whack which on an elec dist usually it is OK. The pickup/reluctor is just an on//off device that triggers the ECU and alot of play will adversely affect it from triggering the ECU at the exact same point for each cyl as it wobbles. Not sure if MP or MSD would be the best way to go.

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I know you are leaning toward new but w money tight I'd sure consider another JY one that's low(er) mileage w tight bushings/shaft. You'll get the hang of undoing the center clip & since you are not running vac adv you can adj phasing & pin everything solid for cheap

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So it sounds like you dont think buying the MSD or any other new one would benefit me much. That reworking a stock one would require a little labor, but would work just as well. I just assumed the MSD would still outperform any stock unit.

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So it sounds like you dont think buying the MSD or any other new one would benefit me much. That reworking a stock one would require a little labor, but would work just as well. I just assumed the MSD would still outperform any stock unit.

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Correct, I dont think you'll get near your moneys' worth that it would be better spent elsewhere. The torx screws on the MSD give much easier adjustability but once you get the hang of getting the clip in/out on the OE unit it's not bad. Almost forgot, on the reworking drive the roll pin out on the bottom shaft/remove collar/shim & add 1/2" ID shims till you get ~.010" end play

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So just to be clear. If I rework a stock distributor I can leave the vac. canister off? And I will pick up a noticable et improvement?

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I think Robert has really answered your questions here. Let me second that there is very little if anything to be gained in the ignition system, especially the distributor.
1. You already have a multispark CD which which covers misfires etc that come with a racy cam.
2. Locking down the vacuum advance plate and phasing may help consistancy - depends on how accurate the repeatable the current dizzy is.
3. Advance curve may or may not be close to ideal for your setup. Changing the total mechanical may help your quarter mile MPH and ET. You don't need a fancy distributor for that. Removing the vacuum advance on a fairly stock engine will almost definately hurt mpg. It also will likley hurt part throttle response unless a lighter primary spring is used.

The newer MP distributors are based on a Mallory design. (You can do a search and see the tech archoves for details). They are slightly easier to take apart and modify but parts are not interchangable with older MP/DC or stock distributors. Again I agree with Robert. For your money, stay with a stock distributor, JY or parts store.

Save the old one. You may find inside your 'new' distributor a different set of springs, or advance plate or vacuum canister. These may or may not work better than your current one. Obviously if there is side play in the current shaft - the new one will better in that respect. So you may end up one or more of those components to the new distributor. Like Robert posted, most of the time a hopped up small block will like the advance shortened. It depends on the idle characteristics of the cam with the CR etc of the engine. Long duration, high overlap cams like 16-18 degrees initial. Your cam may not be that bad, but it still may want more than stock.

The scientific way will be to find the least total advance that gives the best HP on dyno or best MPH at the 1/4 mile. Then if timing at idle rpm is too low, shorten the slots (or find a shorter advance plate).

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