Yep, its a truck, the rad is alum with side tanks that sit on the frame rails, the rad cap just clears the hood, Notice the Mopar six pack scoop turned backwards,

Its a Morroso, the kind that replaces the factory pump, I don't run a thermostat so the water has no restriction, On a factory pump with a belt the pump volume is progressive with rpm, the electric pumps the same speed all the time, my heating problem is only the short blast @ wot, 50 degree rise fast, so my thought was not to slow down the flow?

when trying to just make a run,, stage at about 120 and it gets to 140-150 at the end of the run

trying to go fast,, westcott does this too,, stage at about 60-70,, end of run 90-100

I enter the water at 160, launch about 170, end of run 180, and it starts cooling as soon as I hit the return road. On alky of course!
Leave fan and pump on for approx. 5 mins back in pit back under 160

When I ran gas you could add 20* to those #'s and 10-15mins extra cooling. And that was while being towed up and back for 1/4mile run

I usually try to do my burnout at about 160 but if its a hot day and I have to sit in the lanes for a hour or two starting it and shutting it off 10 times it might be at 180 maybe hit 190 on the run back down to 170-180 by the time I get back to the pits. Never seems to go over 180 idleing. This is about the norm isnt it?

My temp gauge starts @ 100 and we heat soak the engine for alum rods, seems I can get the oil hot then back down the water temp with the water pump and fan back to 100 pretty quick but it tends to leave kinda rough with the water temp that low, I have tried to leave @ 120 and it works, just not as good as 140, this is all @ 200ft track, I am thinking the 300ft deal is gonna push it over the boiling point under load, I am kinda weak on this subject cause all my experience is with marine diesels using heat exchangers, We have the whole ocean to remove heat, this fan and air flow thing is kinda tough to figure, my first instinct is bigger is better but space is a factor, I have been using 200 degrees as a safe limit for water temp, I don't know what the real safe limit for a race engine is? I have seen 230 a few times but not under load, long return lane with traffic & started to push water out the cap, I have been following most of the E85 posts and have been fence sitting for a year cause of the high humidity here on the coast and the water problems I have had with E10 in all the small engine stuff we have on the farm, seems I cant let anything sit for a week with E10 before it picks up water in the fuel, I am leaning toward fitting a 2 pass rad, any thought on this cause it will take a fair amount of fab work and i will have to lose the grill.

Enter the water at 180 to 185, water pump only, 195/200 at the turn off or less.

you alky guys are killing me, whats the secret on keeping the water out of the fuel? Man living near sea level has its bad points too, The NC coast is a giant sand bar with pine trees, When its not raining the humidity level is 65%+, Its wet out every morning.... so some of you fellas on the coast must have this figured out

The "secret" isn't too big. Just get the motor temp up over 200 to 210 before shuting it off. If its' real milky, you might have to push that a bit.
If you have leaned it out going too and from the line and during warm up, the heat in the motor can take care of any moisture or alky present.