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Re: when is a billet crank a must
[Re: go green]
#887782
12/26/10 10:48 PM
12/26/10 10:48 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165 Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,165
Left Coast
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Quote:
I have a forged Callies Magnum and I make "OK " power. Two years and the crank looks new and checks out.
1000Hp billet crank buyers are nothing but goldfish . I would not worry about a crank shaft , the power limiter is the World block.
Big difference with how the power is made. Turbo power is much more forgiving than nitrous or even N/A.
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Re: when is a billet crank a must
[Re: earthmover]
#887785
12/26/10 11:59 PM
12/26/10 11:59 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,330 Lynchburg, VA
Leon441
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,330
Lynchburg, VA
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I thought I covered this in crankshaft 101. LOL
If you can get what you need(stroke, counterweight design and pin sizing) in a forged crank get it. If not you need a billet crank. Folks run billet cranks when they want to get a ultralite crank or trick counterweights that are not available in forged. My 3.800" stroke small block crank is 37 pounds. Don't think you're gonna buy a forged crank that light. Never saw a Winberg forged crank, don't see them available in their 2011 catalog either.
I run a billet Crower ultralite right now because it was a deal when I put this thing together. The last two cranks were billet because 4.125" was not available back when I bought those cranks. I replaced one with a 4.00" Mopar and changed the pistons so I could keep my expensive LA Enterprises Kryptonite to make another engine. $700 vs $3,800. Mopar guys are too cheap to pay anything for used engines and I needed the crank. Wish I could do this in my current engine as I could sell the crank for a good portion of what I am willing to take for the engine.
Career best 8.02 @ 169 at 3050# and 10" tires small block power.
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