Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: Tommy383]
#884111
12/19/10 10:54 PM
12/19/10 10:54 PM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,413 Newark,Ohio
kissmyaspen
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,413
Newark,Ohio
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build it my .
79 Dodge Aspen 12.265 at 109.75 MPH
67 Satellite NSS/E 11.83 @ 110
1968 Plymouth Road Runner 472 Hemi
3 time MOPAR NATIONALS CHAMP '03 FWD and '06 & '09 Street. '07, '10, '12 Mopar Nats runner-up Street.
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Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: 383man]
#884118
12/20/10 02:59 AM
12/20/10 02:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,266 Renton Washington
Triple Threat
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,266
Renton Washington
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I am going through this dilemma myself. We've always built the others...
-Dustin 67 Dart, 9 second, 392" G3 Hemi 68 Barracuda 340 F/SA
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Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: Tommy383]
#884119
12/20/10 03:13 AM
12/20/10 03:13 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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I built my own, but it cost almost the same as if I bought one from Cope (I got most of the parts from him anyhow.) I basically built my transmission about the same as the 727-6 ProRace II Manual Reverse trans with the ultimate sprag and thick lug pump, steel front gear set, billet drums (front and rear), lightened sun shell, etc. This trans from Cope with the ultimate sprag and pump gear is $3,295 (not sure what rear drum and sun shell it has?) I may have saved a few bucks building my own, but Cope offers a free refresh. If you do plan to build your own, you may need to have a selection of various thickness pump and thrust washers, snap rings, and I think I even used a thicker kolene steel in a clutch pack to set the clearances. You will also want a rear vent kit, several 1/8" NPT plugs and a 1/8" NPT tap. Also, plan on getting a few thread repair kits.
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Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: Tommy383]
#884120
12/20/10 04:29 AM
12/20/10 04:29 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,174 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,174
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
i have a b&m overhaul kit from a previous project. what parts(if any) would you say will be ok for this build? and are there any factory internal parts not included in the overhaul kits that would need replacing? thanks
Once your in the 600+ HP range it is time to buy the good parts in trans Call one of the better trans builder like John Cope, ATI, Turbo Action on the east coast or Dave Smith at Pro Trans on the west coast(my personel choice ) and have them build you a trans, using your core or you can save your core for later, once you have it use it and do the maintenanace they recommend as far as band adjustment, fluid and filter changes and so on. Also ask them for the inspection specs for tearting it down and inspecting it down the road so yuo will know when it is time to replace the clutches and so on I have built my own trans. in the past and ended up finding out that most of the general aotomotive rebuld kits don't have all the proper thickness thrust washers, torrington bearings, good race clutches and so on. Once the trans is set up properly you can buy the clutches, fibers and steels, from the trans company you bought from to start with and do the maintenance yourself One of the critical things not mentioned so far is you need in a race 727 making enough HP to break drivetrain parts is a good, explosion proof front drum, steel or alumimun
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: gsmopar]
#884124
12/20/10 07:06 PM
12/20/10 07:06 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,442 LOWELL IN
QWK_ENUF
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,442
LOWELL IN
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if you have any dought as to your level of skill at that power level have it built, of course i recomend John Cope at CRT. every part/piece gets his personal attention before assembly.from the bead blasted case(one stripped bolt hole and its rejected) to each separate bolt and nut(plated in the color gold) the free freshen up is super nice too did i mention the customer service after the fact. ok i will shut up now
WAXER
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Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: QWK_ENUF]
#884125
12/20/10 07:16 PM
12/20/10 07:16 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,207 Menomonee Falls
DemonDust
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,207
Menomonee Falls
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I like to do things myself, because then you have no one to blame but yourself and I like to learn how to do things. So I say do it yourself. There are plenty of books out there that show step by step stuff. If you're mechanically inclined you'll have no problem. And when you do get in a bind, and the books don't have the answer come to moparts or call Rick @ A&A or John @ CRT both are great guys and can supply you with all the parts and tech you will need I have these two books they have a lot of info in them....
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Re: buy or build 727?
[Re: 451Mopar]
#884126
12/20/10 11:58 PM
12/20/10 11:58 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,835 MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,835
MI, usa
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Quote:
at 700+ HP you really need the steel spline front gear and billit front drum. These two parts alone cost almost $1,000. I think in a simular post I listed the trans components and the actual costs, and they add up pretty quick when doing a race trans. If your car is fairly light or under 600 HP then you may not need the front gear or drum, but the durm is a good safety upgrade.
The $1000 included a billet drum,manual valve body and Rabestoes clutches and band,seals and gaskets. I've never stripped a planetery. How ever I don't use a trans brake. My 63 Dodge went low 10 teens at 3400lbs. The trans had over 500 passes. During inspection every thing looked like new. Even John at CRT told me for my new build (no brake) the aluminum carrier should work. The car should go 9.00-9.20 at 3300 lbs. If the planet strips out I'll worry about it then. No biggie to replace it. Doug
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