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The H just means it's a 340 car, you could get whatever options you wanted with it. I had a 72 340 Duster, pretty basic car, manual drums all around bench seat, non rally dash, power steering, air conditioning, 3.55 open rear.

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Ok so the H-code just means it's a 340 and doesn't make it rare or anything.

What about the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes, did all 1970 340 cars come with the 'Kelsey' brakes? Are they anything special?

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Did you save much weight, sorry to hijack prosport, only i've got KH discs on my 69 and may replace them for wilwood.
Mick

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No problem, just make sure the Wilwood fit your application as far as spindles and stuff. When I got my Dart the front wheels were sticking out past the fenders , tires were getting shredded and everything. I switched to a different offset front wheel and the narrowest tire made, 26" Hoosier, and still had to trim the fender lip.

I've heard the Aerospace brakes are tucked under the car better.

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No,73 back all had small bolt pattern.

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Ouch, that just destroyed my wheel selection.

So, what all is needed to convert the front disc brakes to 4.5" bolt pattern?

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OK pre 73 is small bolt pattern.
All you need is the upper control arm, the spindle and brake parts.Not a big deal.

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No,73 back all had small bolt pattern.

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Ouch, that just destroyed my wheel selection.

So, what all is needed to convert the front disc brakes to 4.5" bolt pattern?

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I think Moser can convert the K-H rotor/hubs over to a 4.5 pattern.

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Before you pay to have them re-drilled you should consider saving them or selling them, they bring decent money used from the restoration crowd, but not if they've been modified. The later style BBP's were used for many years and are quite cheap/common.

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Aaaaahhh, dont worry bout them guys, they're weird to start with.

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Really? I think "Weird" better applies to the guy building a race car from a rare and valuable original 340 car which would detract from it's originallity value, rather than choosing a lower end (cheaper and lighter) /6 car to build which wouldn't hurt it's value a bit (not too mention it's a slightly lighter car, better for racing). It's not just about value either, I hate to see a performance classic sacrificed to the racing gods, but that's a personal thing. But hey, I guess it doesn't matter, not my car.

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I think the H code 340 cars have the round gauges also as opposed to the square box speedometer style right?

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Aaaaahhh, dont worry bout them guys, they're weird to start with.

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Really? I think "Weird" better applies to the guy building a race car from a rare and valuable original 340 car which would detract from it's originallity value, rather than choosing a lower end (cheaper and lighter) /6 car to build which wouldn't hurt it's value a bit (not too mention it's a slightly lighter car, better for racing). It's not just about value either, I hate to see a performance classic sacrificed to the racing gods, but that's a personal thing. But hey, I guess it doesn't matter, not my car.

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What about a guy that cuts up and builds a race car from an original 440 A body?

Scott, not everyone has their head rammed up their ... wallet ...

Maybe the :crybaby: purists should start ponying up to buyall these rare and valuable cars, as they call them , so they can be saved the way they think is proper.

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Aaaaahhh, dont worry bout them guys, they're weird to start with.

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Really? I think "Weird" better applies to the guy building a race car from a rare and valuable original 340 car which would detract from it's originallity value, rather than choosing a lower end (cheaper and lighter) /6 car to build which wouldn't hurt it's value a bit (not too mention it's a slightly lighter car, better for racing). It's not just about value either, I hate to see a performance classic sacrificed to the racing gods, but that's a personal thing. But hey, I guess it doesn't matter, not my car.



Some of us did it when these were $500 beaters this use to be a 340 swinger now its a money pit

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Some of us did it when these were $500 beaters this use to be a 340 swinger now its a money pit

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Understood, been there done that. Just don't see much sense in doing it these days.

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What about a guy that cuts up and builds a race car from an original 440 A body?

Scott, not everyone has their head rammed up their ... wallet ...

Maybe the :crybaby: purists should start ponying up to buyall these rare and valuable cars, as they call them , so they can be saved the way they think is proper.

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Pretty selective reading you are doing there, value was one point I made but I guess you missed my other (very valid and non subjective) reasons for not cutting up an original? Actually I hear allot more "racers" lashing out at "purists" with the mere suggestion of not cutting up an original car than the opposite. Who's REALLY doing the crying here? Keep in mind that while I center on restoring cars these days I've also owned a fair number of race cars in the past, and although most on this forum consider me as such, I don't consider myself a "purist", I like them all.

As far as cutting up the original 440 A-body? It depends on the example. Generally speaking not something I'd do or suggest (assuming it's a solid complete car to begin with), now If it were a rusty turd missing all but an original VIN tag it probably wouldn't make much difference, it's all but junk allready.

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I think the H code 340 cars have the round gauges also as opposed to the square box speedometer style right?

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The one I'm looking at has the rallye dash. The car is NICE, already been restored. I want to do some small things to it but it will not be a race car, so saving the stock pieces is fine with me even though I've never cared about that stuff.
I'd like to find someone that makes a polished torque thrust-2 wheel in a 4" bolt pattern, or I may have to get some different front brakes.

What was the HP rating for a 70 H-code 340 auto Dart?

This would actually make a great car for the FAST class but it wouldn't be very quick.

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I'd like to find someone that makes a polished torque thrust-2 wheel in a 4" bolt pattern, or I may have to get some different front brakes.

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Coy's Wheels makes 4"BP torque thrust type wheels.

www.coyswheel.com

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picture of bar

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Before you pay to have them re-drilled you should consider saving them or selling them, they bring decent money used from the restoration crowd, but not if they've been modified. The later style BBP's were used for many years and are quite cheap/common.

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Scott send some resto guys my way.. lol

I had a complete 70 k-frame for sale and couldn't move it at all. I finally took Rob's advice and tore it down and sold the LCA's but still have the k-frame and spindles etc. I am gonna keep the k-frame but still have the extra set of spindles for sale.

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I just did the EXACT same thing with my original 70 340 4spd duster. However, I put pinned side bars on mine to ease getting in/out.

Now gotta get the carpet installed and the headrests put on. I think I am gonna get the camlock belts.

I had to lose the armrests though.

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picture of bar

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I just did the EXACT same thing with my original 70 340 4spd duster. However, I put pinned side bars on mine to ease getting in/out.

Now gotta get the carpet installed and the headrests put on. I think I am gonna get the camlock belts.

I had to lose the armrests though.

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picture of bar

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Me too, but......

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Yeah,but since this car (original 340 4-speed car) was a rolling shell we got for $60 back in 1980....

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That's no excuse ...

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No excuse for what?? Back then,these cars were a dime a dozen to be found.

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\

<<< see this ?

It was a JOKE

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Hey Bob does this mean you have the 69 sold ???

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No, this is a very bad time to sell a car, especially with the holiday season. But I have several incredible trade offers I'm looking at. I get bored every few years and desire new scenery in the garage. A fully restored H-code 340 Dart is one of the offers, I was finally ready to pull the trigger on the deal Saturday til I ran across 2 more options. I really wanted to get away from racing for a few years to concentrate on my son's sports but I really like these 2 cars.