According to Comps web sight, and their cam help guys Im suposed to run a 914-16 spring which is only 165 at the seat, and 385@ 1.20. Every Head guy recomends a minimum of 175 at the seat, and closer to 500 open with my solid roller cam. The heads I have have springs at 205 at 1.8 installed, and 505 open.

Like I said I have spoken to a few good head guys and they all recomend I leave these alone, so I am. The only thing Im gonna change is im going to a tool steel retainer. Im hopeing they dont change my installed height by doing so, but Ill check them out.

What are your guys thoughts?

That sounds awfully light for a roller to me.

I run into this a lot. The cam mfg says a spring that is way to light according to my engine builder. So there is a tough quandry because you generally like to follow the mfg recomendations...

I always do what the engine builder suggests, which is more spring pressure and have never had a motor fail because of that.

Once again, generally, you won't have a problem if there is too much spring pressure (to a point) vs. too little...

This also reminds me about a discussion with Holley carbs years ago...

There was some discussion that one of thier carbs (don't remember which one but use the 950 as example) and that it didn't really flow 950 but rather 890.

I asked Holley about that and they said if it flowed 890 they would have called it an 890....

Thats what I thought

I was going to just buy the "correct" spring for the cam, but have since changed my mind.

Kasey

I run 320# on seat and alot more than that on the top,
still running the same springs and lifters now for
a few years and I check them yearly but its only .710 lift
(PAC springs)

Mr P,

The cam is only 575 lift, and its a street cam, so my "over the top" springs shouldnt hurt a darn thing.

I could be wrong though.

with a solid roller it is better to have more than you need than not enough I am running 340 at 1.900 and am over 700 at just before coil bind.

Comp recommend that spring for all the small block street rollers ... maybe they figure for a "street" application those springs are sufficient.

Be carefully with those tool steel retainers. Selection and sizes are limited - make sure they fit the outer and inner diameters of your springs.

Ive used them before. They look funny as they usually dont cover the entire outer lip of the spring.

Kasey

...This makes a person

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_REQ1PUM0rY&feature=related

I've found that the more spring pressure I run on my Duster motor the better the cam looks I started with 225 to 230 lbs on the seat and 620 to 630 lbs opened, now up to 275 on the seats and 680 open That set up is very stable to 8400 , according to the playback tach when I broke a front U joint and trans yoke during a run

the spring pressures that comp recommends for their street roller cams will work, but i prefer a bit more assurance that the roller will stay seated on the cam. just don't go overboard.
the pressures you have now will work just fine.

I wonder how much time "good head guys" spend reviewing high speed photos and Spintron data for pushrod deflection and rocker arm flex. Cam makers spend a lot of time/money matching parts to maximize power and durability and they watch power go down due to extra drag from too stiff valve springs, not to mention more flex/breakage/heat from the rest of the valve train. Don't get me wrong - I'm not knocking any head builders abilities - I just think that some motors have power left on the table from too stiff springs. I've tested the springs that came off of a motor after a season and they had lost 60-70lbs over the nose from new, but yet the motor hadn't slowed down or floated valves. Draw your own opinion, but it tells me the springs were too stiff to start with.

I gained about 40 hp and quit breaking parts going much heavier than recommended. It could have been the design of the spring, or just too light of a spring .
Your results may vary .