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IM PRETTY SURE THE BLOCK DOES NOTHING for pressure, it is not a prop valve.....

it is more a safety device and distribution block., DO NOT remove it though....
there is a small piston/spring in there that will slide over if a line breaks, effectively blocking off the leak and keeps your braking at one end of the car,

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if its a drag car you might want to put the adjustable proportioning valve on the front brakes.
the correct question here is what master cylinder are you using and whats its proportioning?

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Yep... you cant expect the skinny fronts to do the
work like a stock tire car

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if its a drag car you might want to put the adjustable proportioning valve on the front brakes.
the correct question here is what master cylinder are you using and whats its proportioning?

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Yep... you cant expect the skinny fronts to do the
work like a stock tire car

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Funny how many drag cars have adjustable prop valves in the rear line and how many people believe the distribution block is a prop block.

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Will you be running large tires on the rear and is
this race only... will you have skinnies in front

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if its a drag car you might want to put the adjustable proportioning valve on the front brakes.
the correct question here is what master cylinder are you using and whats its proportioning?

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Quote:

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Quote:

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if its a drag car you might want to put the adjustable proportioning valve on the front brakes.
the correct question here is what master cylinder are you using and whats its proportioning?

---

Yep... you cant expect the skinny fronts to do the
work like a stock tire car

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Funny how many drag cars have adjustable prop valves in the rear line and how many people believe the distribution block is a prop block.

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Quote:

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it is more a safety device and distribution block., DO NOT remove it though....
there is a small piston/spring in there that will slide over if a line breaks, effectively blocking off the leak and keeps your braking at one end of the car,

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it is more a safety device and distribution block., DO NOT remove it though....
there is a small piston/spring in there that will slide over if a line breaks, effectively blocking off the leak and keeps your braking at one end of the car,

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This has NOTHING to do with safety, the only thing that keeps your braking at one end of the car is the dual circuit (mandatory since 1967).

On a disc/drum car, the OEM block is a combination valve.
It does include a prop valve in the rear line (although it's not adjustable and it's the same for all cars, A- to C-bodies - some cars must have a less-than-ideal bias).
It also triggers the dash light if there's a significant pressure difference in the front and rear circuits (i.e. if one line is cut or has a severe leak).
But its most significant action is metering : it delays the pressure rise in the front to give rear drums enough time to overcome the shoe springs. Not a feature you want with 4 discs (or 4 drums).

The dash light itself is pretty useless, you'll know instantly if there's a problem without that light in the dash (you'll get this "Oh Sh*t!" feeling when the pedal goes down easier than usual and you don't slow down as expected, and you'll guess just what went wrong without the light).

For your application (disc/disc), you should remove the combination valve, the metering action is useless to you.

If you get the big distribution block from Jeg's someone talked about above, you can replace it with this, it has one input and two outputs for front brakes, you won't need anything else.
If you get a simple one input/one output prop valve (Wilwood, Mopar Perf), you'll need a brass "T" for the front lines.

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