Need a set of aluminum rods should I go with BME, GRP or someone else. 572 B1 MC heads on spray.

I have been very happy with GRP.

That is going to take some stout rods

I jut got a new set of GRP rods , it only took 2 weeks and they were in my hands. Great service.

GRP in my junk too 7.1

Talked with GRP and they recommand the 5301 series rod. Great customer service I was on the phone with them for about 30 minutes. 1 week turn around as of right now.

5301's are what I run as well

Get back to work and quit playing on the computer.

The BME's are usually clearenced for the cam lobes --ones from Indy anyway--the cam still has to be degreed in pretty much for it to clear-- on that 4.500 stroke --never used the others but do ask about that little feature--they can do it at the factory --way better than a home job on that critical part--

Al, how many runs in your "little" motor before it's time for new rods?

Anybody else have some input on life expectancy?

I have heard two hundred runs on a forged rod like the BME on a N/A motor, send them in and have them checked for sizes and Zyglow inspeted, if okay run them another two hundred and throw them away. I have also heard that the billet aluminum rods are way better than the forged aluminum rods BTW, I'm sure the alloy has a lot to do with the wear and tear results

BME in mine.

From another Aluminum Rod Thread..

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...part=1&vc=1

Me:

Quote:
If I remember right, MoparBilly had a set of BME's he had bought used, then put about 750 runs on them before a failure.
Just before that, Brian Downing had a "NEW" set of Manley top dollar steel rods that made a whole 15-20 runs before they totally destroyed their 572". Crank, Mega Block and about everything else junk.

So, I guess you never know.


Chris..



As I recall, he was also running a LOT on N2O on that engine when it failed.

MoparBilly:

My 440 failed about 75 runs after my last N20 use..but I had blown a head gasket and warped the tops of 2 pistons after the last use of my stone age N20 tuneup, and I DID NOT replace the pistons, juset put cometics on it and let it ride. The pass before it broke, it had a funny sound to it, and I returned to the pits, and told my buddies, "I think I broke one of those bad pistons". The next morning we fired it up, and listened to it, and they convinced me to run it...it let go coming out of the water. I dont hold the BMEs responsible for the failure.

My little brother's low deck,-1 headed 504 features 6.53 BME rods. In 15 years, the engine has been through 2 owners, 2 blocks, is about to get it's 2nd set of pistons, has over 1700 runs on it, and he has no intention of replacing the rods.

440 Jim,
My budget only allows for used Aluminum rods. For the 440 rod pin combo's BMEs were cheap, and plentifull. Now that we work into the stroker combo's with the BBC pin, it seems all I can find are GRPs . I'd prefer BME, but my new 517 will have a set of GRPs I got from Jack (Moore and Moore)

How do weights compare between BME, GRP and MGP for a long rod like 7.10 or 7.15 with 2.2 rod journal.
Anyone did the switch and had to rebalance the crank ?

No one here use MGP ?
I have BME now and I am thinking of going MGP or GRP.

Michael Gianonne started up GRP originally before selling it off to V Gaines. He later started up MGP. I believe he was the first to use the circular serrations on the parting faces. The MGP stuff are great parts. Most of the high revving Small Block stuff I have seen ran MGP rods, Comp and Pro Stock would be their biggest customers.

But if you torque MGP rods wrong, they will break like a twig.. Very weird torquing sequence..


Chris..