Quote:

---

i looked at my ld340 and there isn't much room there also, it looks like if you open it to the good gasket or plastic spacer there would only be about .030 on the secondary side unless you weld. NE1 have a pic of a LD340 opened up to T-quad size.

---

Quote:

---

You would have the same problem with and LD340. They are not set up for a thermoquad either.
yes it will work with a little grinding but why not just get an adapter.

---

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

A properly tweaked THERMOquad does NOT have a BOG issue at all ...PEPSIkid

And an ADAPTER is fine on a truck or RV ... but anything HP .. those adapters are NOT the plan.

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

Yet another case of blaming the part rather than the mechanic

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

Yet another case of blaming the part rather than the mechanic

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

Yet another case of blaming the part rather than the mechanic

---

Say what you want, there's a reason OTHER carter designs like the AFB is still being produced and thermobogs aren't.

---

Quote:

---

Say what you want, there's a reason OTHER carter designs like the AFB is still being produced and thermobogs aren't.

---

reason is a dummy can work on them.

---

The REASON is ... is those AFB designs are simple UNefficent carbs that are EZ to produce ...... compared to the TQ.

And this stupid thermobog title ? ... if you TWEAK the carb right(with the proper tool ) ....

The CORRECT title would be thermoKICK .... as the secondaries come-in and SPIN the tires !

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

Yet another case of blaming the part rather than the mechanic

---

Say what you want, there's a reason OTHER carter designs like the AFB is still being produced and thermobogs aren't.

---

reason is a dummy can work on them.

---

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

I believe that the Mighty Three have spoken the truth!! Daytona has proved that if you can SEE the mounting for a TQ, it can be mounted WITHOUT an adapter, Doc has proved that the TQ is NOT little as you say, but being a very FLEXIBLE carburetor (fits on any Mopar v-8 regardless of displacement). Scott proved that it doesn't suffer
as much from mixture problems as the "other" carb which you call "real". No problems here at ALL with YOU using a REAL carb!! Just food for
.

Quote:

---

Yes they proved it by saying it.

BTW Jesus was black. It is now proven.

---

Well, one man IS a KNOWN racer and MODERATOR, another man is a NOTABLE TQ repair/restorer/supplier and
RACER, the last man is a NOTED TQ tuner and RACER.
Ahh, I don't think it just them saying it!! Their backgrounds prove it!! BTW just a word
of friendly advice, debates on issues of religion is not good on the forum. Leave it off,
please.

Quote:

---

Why do you guys assume an adapter is robbing HP? Many Many guys find they go faster with a spacre and an adapter is almost the very same thing. Mabey I am the only one who does this but I like to take the adapter, bolt it on the intake and port it to smooth the transition till it is like one single piece of aluminum, thats how I roll with them on intakes not desighned for them and they seem to work VERY good. If you do that there is just no where for the HP to disapear

Not all M1s BTW can have a t-quad bolted right on and since he is talking about air-gaps and LD340 intakes it sounds like he wants a dual plane and the t-quad will not bolt to a M1 dual plane, onlyt the M1 single plane.

---

Thanks Dave for the clarification on the spacers and adapters. I with ya, they don't
rob power but fine tune the airflow for the power
to work best in certain ranges.

Quote:

---

Of course if you want to have the king of all "Packs" you'll need a Navarro "Sixteen Pack"

---

Quote:

---

I thought it would be great to combine a Thermoquad and RPM Air Gap.

---

Quote:

---

Why I ask is because the Thermoquad/LD340 combo works fantastic for me and what I use it for.
But since I am having a hard time finding an LD340 and that the RPM Air Gap is a great intake along the lines of the LD, I thought it would be great to combine a Thermoquad and RPM Air Gap.
Thats what/why I am asking.

---

Quote:

---

Why do you guys assume an adapter is robbing HP? Many Many guys find they go faster with a spacre and an adapter is almost the very same thing. Mabey I am the only one who does this but I like to take the adapter, bolt it on the intake and port it to smooth the transition till it is like one single piece of aluminum, thats how I roll with them on intakes not desighned for them and they seem to work VERY good. If you do that there is just no where for the HP to disapear

Not all M1s BTW can have a t-quad bolted right on and since he is talking about air-gaps and LD340 intakes it sounds like he wants a dual plane and the t-quad will not bolt to a M1 dual plane, onlyt the M1 single plane.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I foolishly had that same combination for a litte (Thermobog on an RPM air gap). Just use an adapter... or better yet use a real carb.

---

A properly tweaked THERMOquad does NOT have a BOG issue at all ...PEPSIkid

And an ADAPTER is fine on a truck or RV ... but anything HP .. those adapters are NOT the plan.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Why do you guys assume an adapter is robbing HP? Many Many guys find they go faster with a spacre and an adapter is almost the very same thing. Mabey I am the only one who does this but I like to take the adapter, bolt it on the intake and port it to smooth the transition till it is like one single piece of aluminum, thats how I roll with them on intakes not desighned for them and they seem to work VERY good. If you do that there is just no where for the HP to disapear

Not all M1s BTW can have a t-quad bolted right on and since he is talking about air-gaps and LD340 intakes it sounds like he wants a dual plane and the t-quad will not bolt to a M1 dual plane, onlyt the M1 single plane.

---

That's funny, I have a thermoquad on my Dual Plane M1 intake. I used an adapter. Why won't it work?

---

Quote:

---

Why I ask is because the Thermoquad/LD340 combo works fantastic for me and what I use it for.
But since I am having a hard time finding an LD340 and that the RPM Air Gap is a great intake along the lines of the LD, I thought it would be great to combine a Thermoquad and RPM Air Gap.
Thats what/why I am asking.

---

You are asking, we are agreeing!! Good setup!!
Just tune it to YOUR cars' liking.

Quote:

---

IIRC a few years back one of the mopar mags did a dyno test on those adapters and showed them to lose HP. However if they would have done like you describe, bolting them on then smoothing out the transition I suspect the loss would have vanished.

---

100% with you!! Good point Daytona!!

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

IIRC a few years back one of the mopar mags did a dyno test on those adapters and showed them to lose HP. However if they would have done like you describe, bolting them on then smoothing out the transition I suspect the loss would have vanished.

---

100% with you!! Good point Daytona!!

---

Quote:

---

Original poster. Street car right? Why not just run a stock 71-78 cast iron intake? Heck probably get one for free if you bug enough buddies for what they got laying around. Worst case scenario maybe twenty bucks.

Thats a 79 but I wish it was a 78 because of that stupid tin thermostat housing they started using and turned 45 degrees starting in 79. I missed that completely until after I sand blasted and painted it.

---

Quote:

---

Thanks guys, I am building a 408 with Edelbrock heads, for use in a Challenger that I will take to the road course for some solo runs.
Trying to keep the weight down as a go as much as I can.

---

Then go with an aluminum intake. Good choices out there for the TQ! Good weight distribution goes A
LONG WAY for handling and tires!!

Quote:

---

Which brings me back to my original question.

---

If you feel comfortable "reworking" the Air Gap
go for it! The performance loss would be minimal if the "machining process" is done right
and the bores are blended smooth! LD 340 would be a little better to do, but the Air Gap manifold is the next best thing! You're on track my friend,
take your time and do it carefully!!

Quote:

---

I think some of you guys have never had a t-quad base plate sitting on an RPM or RPM air-gap, there just is not enough meat there to grind away, you have to weld up the flange area then mill it back flat then you can grind clearance for the blades and have a smooth transition. That is the only way it is gonna happen unless you run a thick gasket and only grind minimal clearance for the opening blade and in that case you have a big step that will hurt performance, possibly cause tuning issues and fuel seperation. You wil still be asking for vaccume leaks because there is only about 1/32 gasket clamping area if that(may vary a few thou either way depending on particular castings). I tried everything I could imagine to do it and ended up with a mr gasket adapter siliconed to the manifold and a thin gasket, an air cleaner fit just fine with a drop base in my 68 cuda, I would have guessed an e-body would have had a little more room but I really don't know about e-bodys.

---

Silicone is bad for intake to carb surfaces. Could you have tried J-B Weld on it and work an adapter? Silicone is TOO messy and disrupts the flow from the carb through the intake and to the heads! Food for thought!!

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I think some of you guys have never had a t-quad base plate sitting on an RPM or RPM air-gap, there just is not enough meat there to grind away, you have to weld up the flange area then mill it back flat then you can grind clearance for the blades and have a smooth transition. That is the only way it is gonna happen unless you run a thick gasket and only grind minimal clearance for the opening blade and in that case you have a big step that will hurt performance, possibly cause tuning issues and fuel seperation. You wil still be asking for vaccume leaks because there is only about 1/32 gasket clamping area if that(may vary a few thou either way depending on particular castings). I tried everything I could imagine to do it and ended up with a mr gasket adapter siliconed to the manifold and a thin gasket, an air cleaner fit just fine with a drop base in my 68 cuda, I would have guessed an e-body would have had a little more room but I really don't know about e-bodys.

---

Silicone is bad for intake to carb surfaces. Could you have tried J-B Weld on it and work an adapter? Silicone is TOO messy and disrupts the flow from the carb through the intake and to the heads! Food for thought!!

---

I just siliconed the spacer to the intake, then blended it in with the die grinder so no left overs hangin in the plenum.

I have done an LD4b and it has a different carb pad than an RPM, the LD4b and LD340 have basically tha same carb pad. It only took a couple minutes to rough it in. I used an 850 t-quad baseplate and a black marker to mark color everything in ther to remove, then I mounted a christmas tree carbide in a router and ran it around to remove all the black marker then hand blended the transition with a die grinder, almost looked like a cnc had done it when I was done.

Quote:

---

---

Quick and easy fix!! And yes for the bucks
it DOES WORK!!

Quote:

---

Why do you guys assume an adapter is robbing HP? Many Many guys find they go faster with a spacre and an adapter is almost the very same thing. Mabey I am the only one who does this but I like to take the adapter, bolt it on the intake and port it to smooth the transition till it is like one single piece of aluminum, thats how I roll with them on intakes not desighned for them and they seem to work VERY good. If you do that there is just no where for the HP to disapear

Not all M1s BTW can have a t-quad bolted right on and since he is talking about air-gaps and LD340 intakes it sounds like he wants a dual plane and the t-quad will not bolt to a M1 dual plane, onlyt the M1 single plane.

---