I'd like to adjust the timing on my 65 dart. 225 /6. (1977?)

The original repair manual says to set to 2.5. I think it was BTD but it could have been ATD. It's in the book I'll relook it up before adjusting it. However, the tab with the marks on it has 10 and 5 painted on on the other side of TDC from the manuals setting from a previous owner. and when reading a recent post at /6 forum. They were swearing by 16! which isn't even on the tab.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27635&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75

"The advanced timing comes in handy to complement the fuel correction. I have tried to run around 10 degrees but I get better economy at 16 degrees. It has a little crisper response to the throttle changes. The gentlemen that owns our local carb shop swears that 16 degrees initial is the ticket for a stock or nearly stock slant in terms of best mileage."

So how do I know what to set it at? I'd like to go for MPG versus power.

Set as much intial timing as you can with out pinging under load. IE pulling a hill in drive or hammering on it in 2nd. I think I'm around 12 degrees BTDC intial and I get 22 mpg out of mine. You get more power and better mpg with as much timing as it will handle. Run a colder plug then the book calls for too. It helps a bunch. I cant remember the number on my Autolites but compared to a Champion heat range it was around 12. The ones they call for in the book are way too hot. You'll get lots of dieseling on hot days at shutdown. And premature pinging from the hot plugs.

If you dont have a dial back timing light just get a elcheapo Summit brand timing tape for a Mopar 7 1/4" dampner and you can then set it with your standard timing light and also check the total timing at 3000 rpm. The summit tape is around $4. Might be able to find one at your local parts store too. Has to be for a Mopar though. Your total timing should end up somewhere between 34 and 40 degrees I'd guess.

If you really want to get fancy you can weld the advancer slots partially shut. Then you can run a ton of initial and still limit total to keep out of ping.

I normally ran at least 15 initial on a street car. Setting it by the book will really make them doggy.

Thanks for the answers. I have a few quick clarifying questions.

BTDC is advanced timing right?
ATDC is ? timeing

is initial timing the timing at the warmed up "curb" idle?

What is and how do I check total timing? is that just reving the engine to 3000 and checking the timing?

I didn't know that timing changed with rpm. if so that must be why adjusting the curb idle first is important.

"dieseling on hot days" is that where the car continues to run even after turning it off? I thought that was a sign of a vacuum leak though of course more than one thing can be a cause just confirming my old logic.

"set it at 10 to 15 degrees BTDC and forget about it" OK this sounds about like what I was going to do for a while anyway. I really should be working on my house and not my car but I'm so tired of not driving my car. With the price of gas though it makes sense to get it tuned up to optimum and keep fiddling. I just need to get a decent baseline mpg to start though. I'm getting like 12mpg which I just can't afford. I know there are other things to check on as well but wanted to adjust idles, timing and valves first.

so if the timing changes with rpm what idle speeds should I be shooting for if timing isn't by the book anyway? I think the book calls for 500 or 550 curb idle and 700 fast idle. does that seem right? i seem to recall people saying the fast idle isn't as important as long as it starts well in cold weather.

Get a dial timing light. They are a wonderful tool.
Set the total (int & mech) to 28*-30*. Whatever int that gives you is what you are stuck with, unless you do what Slantzilla advises, weld up the slots to reduce mech and allowing for more int, you'll be glad you did. The alternative to welding the slots, get the advance plate from a dist that is marked with a '9R', this will allow you to run about 12* int and 18* mech, the '9R' is what a few slant sixes came with.

I like at least 750 rpm with my foot on the brake in gear warm. Have had mine lower but it didnt help mileage any. You can set them lower but it seems like the crappy design of slant six intake manifolds just make them too "shakey" at idle in gear any slower and then surgy pulling away from a stop light. Also after you set your timing get a vaccum gauge and set your idle mixture screws for the most vaccum. Helps idle and part throttle cruising a bunch. I can pull 20 inches at idle with my stock super six when its all set right. And the best I have ever got mileage wise out of an automtic tranny sixer with a one barrel carb is 18 mpg. NEVER have I had one come close to the Super Six setup. Now that all 1970's stuff too. Never fooled with the 60's sixers.

18?!?!?!?! 18!?!!??!!? I can't afford my commute at 18. I need atleast mid 20s. Can I expect that if I convert to a super six setup? I was thinking I'd do that anyway. It might not be worth the time to tune the 1920 if I'm only going to get 18 anyway.

this post had givin me some hope. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27635

perhaps it's better to start with a 2 barrel anyway.

Since I had just bought my timing light I could take it back and put the money toward the needed one but I don't know which to get:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post4527819

You want 20's you better switch to the 2 barrel setup. You'll have to figure out a gas pedal setup for it. I'm pretty sure what you got wont work with the Super Six. Ask the slantsix.org guys for sure because I'm sure they've already tackled that problem hundreds of times. You really dont need a dial back timing light if you have a timing tape on the damper.