Fuel, temperature and oil pegged on my 70 bee coming home the other day, then went to off, then the fuel gauge came back on.

Replaced the voltage limiter on the back of the dash with a used one I had kicking around, but same thing appears, only the fuel gauge is working, any quick ideas from previous experiences, thanks, Rick.

Same thing appears - as in they all peg? If they peg, you simply replaced a bad limiter with a bad limiter (probably why it was just kicking around?). The mechanical limiters are easiest to check. Hook up ground and 12 volts. Use a meter to check output. If you don't have a meter, use a light. Output will be 12 volts DC with about a 50% duty cycle.

If the gauges went to off and are staying there, the ni-chrome wire in the gauges is burned open.

if gauges full tilt means lost signal, check bulk at firewall clean inspect, could rattle loose. check all grounds, and last dash conector if that does not fix it ohm out curcit board for breaks

Just went back out and gas and temp spike all the way when I turn the headlights on, gas goes back to normal when headlights are off, getting ready to pull my voltmeter out. Oil gauge was working before all this, now nothing at all. Thanks for the help.

I'll bet you a coke you have a ground problem. I have run into this several times and now always make a separate ground wire and (CONNECT) it to:
--> All (3)
1. Instrument Cluster
2. The Dash Frame
3. The Chassis of the car anywhere you find a good spot (clean and remove paint first to expose bare metal)

Also make sure your battery ground has a CLEAN connection to the Chassis.

Don't trust that the dash frame always has a good ground. Sometimes it doesn't.

This should fix your problem, and it's easy to test.