I'm getting ready to tackle the job (with the engine in the car) within the next few weeks '66 Charger 440ci. I am familiar with the basic procedure (though I've never done it), but was looking for any tips or tricks you can share that may be specific to a 440 (type of spring compressor to use, clearance issues, etc...

Thanks

used 2ft of 3/8" white nylon rope fed in at BDC then hand turned to near TDC to keep the valves from dropping. Piece of scotch tape over the valve stem grooves to keep from nicking the seals as they go over it (oil them). Used the on eng valve spring compressor, BB one is different from SB (spacing is different)

Thanks!

I use a vavle spring compressor from Autozone (see below). I also used an air compressor and feed 100 psi into the cylinder I was replacing the seals on. I chose this spring compressor because I was replacing the seals in a Challenger with a 440, limited room. After you have removed the rockers and shaft, take about a 3/4" socket and place over the valve spring retainer, then rap it with a small hammer a few times. This will loosen up the keepers and make them easier to remove with a magnet once the spring is compressed. Also, block your oil return holes with rags to prevent the valve keepers from being dropped into the engine. I used the stock style seals which have two different height seals. If I remember correctly, the tall one goes on the intake.
Ron

Pretty much what they said. I prefer the rope. I have the attachment, but always too worried about dropping a valve. Also, I've never bought seals that didn't come with a nice little valve stem cover (as opposed to the tape), but the tape is good a idea...

I use a very similar spring compressor (mine needs that little spring. I might have to try adding one), but really my only contribution here is to recommend a small magnet pickup tool to grab the keepers. Otherwise they're very difficult to get a hold of...

Well, we just finished putting the new seals in and man were the old ones shot...



Almost every one that came off the intake valves were broken, crumbling and hard as a rock.

Hopefully, this will improve the oil consumption dramatically...we'll see.

We ended up using compressed air to hold the valves closed and a magnet to grab the keepers from the springs. It worked really well and only took about 3 hours or so. Now I just have to get the valve covers back on without them leaking....

Thanks everyone for your help!

Well, bad news. I drove the car after installing the new seals and the consumption is exactly the same (1qt. in 200 miles). With as bad as these seals were, I don't see how there's no improvement, but....
Anyway, it must be the rings I guess.
The thing that confuses me is that it hardly smokes at all and doesn't leak....

Sorry to hear that..........does it smoke on start up/decel?......those valley pan gaskets can be a pain to seal & can pull oil through intake ports.

I would check the intake ports just to rule out the valley pan

then assume it the rings

could be worn guids on the valve stems also

I was going to say did you check to see how much movement the valve guides have ? The big block mopars are known to wear the guides pretty bad .
I have had a set of heads that had almost a 1/4 inch movment that would be hard for any seal to work .

I tried to move one or two of the stems and there was maybe one to two thousands movement...nothing really. I should have checked them all, but there was no noticable movement while taking the old seals off. I will check intake ports for oil. Now that you mention it, I keep getting a little puddle of oil on the intake, I think it's seeping past the middle intake bolt. That may indicate that the oil is getting past the gasket, unless the bolt hole goes into an oil passage and the oil is seeping past the threads...

I made this works great and its cheap!

Wow! That's awesome! I wish I had that while doing the seals...very clever

I know what i will welding up next in the shop

thats a good idea