Ok I got two batteries charged so we can get this 400 started and everything adjusted. It started up right away. I let it run a few seconds and zapped the throttle to let off the fast idle. But I think timing is off. It's idling way too high, like maybe 1200RPM in Park. I got scared running that high on a new motor eventhough the cam break is done. I tried to turn out the idle screw to adjust it but it didn't even really change. So I think the timing is off some. I have this Advance timing light that I'm not really familiar with. I'm following the instructions with the timing light. It has a knob on it you turn for Advance it goes from 0-60. It tells me for setting initial timing to "Turn knob to desired degree advance setting." I don't really know what that means. I can sit there and set the timing to exactly what the specs are but that's about it. And that's what I was going to do being it's all built back stock. The spec is 7.5 +/- 2.5 degrees, so basically 10 Before Top Center. So I was going to put it at 10 BTC and see how it ran. But what am I suppose to do with this Advance knob. After selecting the desired Advance it says to press and hold down the button, view timing marks. Loosen dist. and turn until movinv mark is at 0. Then it says to tighten the bolt back up. Why would I want to put it back at 0? Or do I just turn the knob to 10 and follow the instructions and turn the dist. until it's back to 0. Please help.

On most stock crank dampners the marks on it only show +10, +5, 0, -5, -10.
When setting your total advance at 2800rpms to 36degrees, that will be hard to figger where that is on the dampner.
So with the timing light that has an advance knob, you would set the dial to 36, then shining the light at the timing pointer, you would turn the distributor until the pointer points to 0 on the dampner (much easier to see).

Ok I read the instructions again with the timing light and I did the "Measuring Initial Timing" Procedure. I held down the button, Viewed the Marks, and turned it until the moving mark was aligned with the 0 on the tab. Then I shut the car off and looked at where I had turned the knob to and it was 35-36. So what does that mean? The next step in the instructions with the timing light are a little confusing. The 1st instruction is to "Turn the Advance knob to desired degrees advance setting." So do I leave the knob still at 35-36 and turn the distributor until the white mark I painted on the damper is aligned with 0? Or do I turn the knob back to 0 and aligned the paint mark with 10? I'm assuming this "moving mark" they're telling me to observe in the "Measuring Initial Timing" was the one the strobe light was making. It's confusing because in the "Setting Initial Timing" instruction you're doing the same thing except first youre suppose to turn the knob to a certain number.

Ok I went out and followed what you said RapidRobert and I got it perfectly aligned with 10BTC. The motor settled down and idled lower. It's still idling a little higher than it should at about 1000-1100. You can tell it's still idling a little on the high side. So I know I need to readjust. I have the air cleaner off because there's no way to get to the curb idle screw on the Thermoquad with the air cleaner on. So I hooked back up the vacuum advance. I have the air cleaner hose port on the back of carb plugged up while the air cleaner is off. I sat there and turned out the curb idle screw but it never changed the idle. One thing I'm noticing is the carb has a lot of smoke coming out of it after you shut it off. It probably needs the mixture adjusted. I really don't know how to do that. One veteran mechanic told me to not mess with it and let it run a little lean or rich I can't remember what he said, but he says if you changed it right away it might melt a piston. I can feel the fumes, it burns my eyes a little. And you can smell it on your clothes while out there adjusting. But I checked the timing again after I tightened the screw and it's still dead on 10. So what do I need to do now. Oh yeah I forgot to add that when I finally got the timing right the oil pressure dropped from 75PSI to about 30-35PSI. I'm assuming that's because it was running at 1000 vs 1200 RPM. It just shocked for a second. But that's correct isn't it? I've got HP pump there and when it was running before the timing was adjusted it was 75PSI. So is that normal?

Initial timing is set at idle. Your idle speed should be about 800-900 rpms. Not 1200 rpms. You really can't set anything with your timing light until you get that idle speed down to normal.

For plain stock grocery getters the initial timing is typically 10deg (advanced). For performance cars it's typically 15-20deg.

You seemed to follow the procedure correctly, but how the heck you came up with 36deg (initial) is beyond me.

Provided your initial timing is say 10deg. the next step the instructions was telling you was to set total timing.
Meaning set the dial to 36deg. then as you work the carb linkage to raise the rpms to say 2800 turn the distributor until the pointer points to 0.

Basically, what the advance knob does is it allows you to set timing to what whatever you desire by simply turning the knob to the desired number AND allows you the convenince of using the 0 mark on the dampner as your target/reference/set point.

Going from 1200 rpms to 1000rpms is not a lot of change. It's like your carb butterfly plates are still too open and not closing all the way down. That's probably why your smelling so much gas fumes. Also, too lean a condition will melt a piston. If you can smell the gas then it's too rich.

Yeah I'm definitely not an expert but I'm good at following instructions to the T. I'm amazed that I actually put this car back together and rebuilt this engine and that it actually runs. It is my first time ever. That's what I did. I never have been able to adjust a carburetor. It seems like no matter what carburetor I'm working on I can never get it to idle right or adjust right. I followed the timing light instructions so I was making sure I used the timing light right. It was actually more like 30-32 degrees that I turned the knob to get the moving mark to align with 0 when measuring initial timing. So I just turned it back the knob to 0 and aligned the white mark I painted on the damper with the 10 BTC on the cover. I also followed the timing procedure in the 73 Chrysler Chassis Manual. It said once you have the timing to readjust the idle. But like I said I couldn't get the idle to change at all. I turned a few turns but I didn't know how far out you have to turn the curb idle screw for it to really drop so I just quit messing with it for now. The problem is even if I could find someone to help around here I don't know of anyone who can adjust carburetors anymore. I like to adjust to what is specified and be done. That's why I use a hand held tach. It's running at 1000-1050 idling now. According to the emission decal it should be at 775 for a new engine or 850 for a used engine. So what order do I need to redo all this again. Do I need to do mixture, idle, and timing again? Do you'll know of a foolproof way of adjusting mixture to factory settings?

Leave your inital timing alone for now. 10btdc is a good start. What carb do you have ? I hope your not confusing the curb idle screw with the idle mixture screws.
All the curb idle screw does is allow/block the throttle linkage to keep it open just a little bit. If it's the correct screw, backing it all the way will allow the throttle linkage to completely close the primary plates and eventually the engine should die.

If your carb is an Edelbrock or Carter there should be two screws at the front center near the base. Those are the mixture screws. IICR turn both screw all the way in and back off 1.5 to 2 turns for intial setting. But hold off because you've got to get the idle speed down. If you completely backed off the curb idle screw and the engine is still idling at 1000rpms then something is wrong at the throttle linkage. Something is still stuck open and that could be due to a too short throttle cable. Meaning, if the gas pedal is at the fully up position and the engine is still idling fast because the throttle cable is still being pulled back for some reason.

dont forget the ever present idle speeding up vacuum leak..

It is the stock replacement carb, the Carter Thermoquad. It is definitely the curb idle screw I am turning out. I turned it out just a little bit, but I thought the idle should drop right away some. So I may not have turned it out far enough. I did change the throttle cable. I got one from Pioneer. I compared it to the original cable and it was the same length, the only difference being the grommet was larger on the original. I don't think anything is sticking I had someone watch the linkage and everything's moving freely when I press in the gas. I was talking to a friend last night and he told me something that could make a difference but I don't know. He said because I have the air cleaner off it's sucking in more air so it might idle a little higher. I had to remove the air cleaner because it's impossible to adjust the curb idle with it on. So when I took it off I did plug the vacuum port on the carb where the air cleaner vacuum hose went to. I don't really know anyone that could properly adjust the mixture screws. But I say a exhaust gas analyzer for sale on EBAY for $230 w/ digital readout. Would that be helpful if I had it?

Back off the idle screw some more until you get 850-900rpms.

The idle increased slightly because the carb was running rich and the added air flow to the carb balanced things out.

IIRC, the tube coming from the air cleaner typically goes to the breather on the valve cover. The tube coming from the carb goes to the PCV valve on the other valve cover.

The analyzer is nice to have but expensive. Just buying the box is not all that's to it. You have to install an oxygen sensor onto the exhaust pipe. This is done by drilling a hole into a header pipe or exhaust pipe after the cast iron manifold. Weld on a "bung" which is the threaded adapter port. Screw on the oxygen sensor and hook up the wires to the box.

A simpler way to way to adjust air/fuel mixture is to read the sparkplug. Start with a baseline adjustment by turning the carb's mixture screws all the way in and then back them out 1.5 to 2 turns. Then go for test drive.
To get the most accurate reading is by shutting off the engine and coasting off to the side of the road. Remove a sparkplug and look for the color of the porcelain tip. The color should be a light to medium tan. Too white or light gray means lean and too dark brown means rich. Then adjust the mixture screws accordingly.

...are you trying to adjust the idle with the idle mixture screws?
you should turn the fast idle screw on the throttle back to 750 rpm and then adjust your 2 idle mixture screws for the lean drop
if the fast idle screw is too far open you will be running on the throttle and flooding...instead of the idle circuit.

You might have the throttle cable too tight. Try taking it loose to see if the idle comes down.

disconnect the linkage this will let the plates come all the way closed. then use your idle screw, reconnect the linkage. if the idle picks up, there is your problem. timing will change your idle but your idle will not change your timing.

I didn't mess with it tonight since I want to do it when I have a lot of time. So I'll try and readjust this weekend. I did look at the linkage tonight and it's possible it maybe too tight. I swapped the original cable with a Pioneer cable, which was all the same except the firewall grommet doesn't fit as snug. So I may have taken too much slack out of the new cable, it's pretty tight. With the car just sitting and the engine off and cold should the curb idle screw be touching? So I'll disconnect it this weekend and see what happens unless I get it straightened out. I haven't messed with the mixture screws at all yet.

FWIW I found I had to adjust my throttle cable "hot". Enough slack cold wasn't enough hot. Now that I know that, I just leave a little extra.

Yes, the curb idle screw should always be touching the linkage whether the engine is off or on. That's what keeping the primary butterfly plates barely open to expose the idle slot in the venturis.

So is there a general spec on how much slack to leave in the throttle cable? There's not even a removal/installation procedure in the 73 Dodge Chassis or Body manual as far as I can see.

Not really. It's more common sense.
1). Start with the throttle cable from gas pedal to carb.
Gas pedal should be all the way up.
Carb linkage all the way forward, primaries are closed.
At this point there should be no slack.
2). Adjust curb idle screw so the throttle moves just
enough to expose the idle slot in the venturies.
Maybe 2-3 turns of the screw for starters.
3). The throttle cable will now have some slack.
Take up the slack in the cable.
4). Start the car and see what rpm it's idling at.
adjust screw as needed.
5). When you have your desired idle rpm re-check the
throttle cable to make sure there is no slack.
Otherwise there will be unnecessary movement of the gas
pedal before enough slack is taken up to actually move
the carb linkage.

Ya know, a good test would be to back off the idle screw completely so it's touching nothing. Then check to see if the throttle cable has enough slack/length to allow the throttle linkage to go all the way forward.

If you back off the idle screw completely and the throttle cable is long enough you should see the primary butterfly plates go horizontal/close. If it doesn't that means the throttle cable is too short.

When you swapped cables and found that it's too tight,
are you referring to the entire cable being stretched out taunt ? Because it shouldn't be. The shape of the cable from the firewall grommet to the cable clamp above the intake manifold should be a lazy S-shape.

Maybe it's time check out someoneelse's Mopar as an example.

Yeah I've been fooling with it again. Readjusted the cable again and it idles a little lower but now too low at 600-675RPM. The cable has the shape described. I think I had it pulled back too tight. Before the curb idle screw wasn't even near the lever on the carb now it is, but still doesn't touch it even with screw all the way in. The throttle plates are closed though. How firm should the gas pedal be with the engine off? It's pretty loose but not the bolts just the push of the pedal. When I start it up now I guess it's idling so low it won't stay running until I let it get hot. I know the old cable was hard to get out because of the grommet. I'm going to try and get a good used one and see if it helps. I've noticed in the 73 service manual there should be an idle stop solenoid on here. But I thought it was for California cars or Manual Transmission cars because I don't have one and I don't have a plug for on on the engine harness. It's a new harness from Year One for big blocks. Do I need one and where do I get it? I haven't messed with the mixture screws yet until I figure out the cable issues. Of course my buddy who's a mechanic and knows how to fix all this has once again left me hanging here. He said he was on his way to come help and never showed up and he did the same thing last week too. It's hit or miss with him sometimes, he helps sometimes and sometimes he acts like you didn't even ask him. So of course I'll be doing all this by myself again like I've done most everything on the car. Seeing someone elses 73 Charger would be very helpful but most of the ones people have are modified and the ones on EBAY no one cares what kinda help you need they just want to sell it. I understand the desire for more performance out of these cars so it's hard to come by someone who just has a original or restored 73-74 400-440 Charger. Especially since they weren't the fastest ones people aren't really restoring them to original. I just like the way they were original so I'm trying to. It ran the best when it was new so that's what I'm trying to go for. So definitely if anyone has a photo that would help me out for sure.

I readjusted the accelerator cable. The gas pedal feels how it should be. Firm. I started it up and it was still running at 600-650RPM. As you can see in the pic I have the curb idle screw all the way in and it doesn't even touch the lever. I moved one of those levers before I adjusted the cable and the curb idle screw barely touched the lever then, so I thought I was ok then. Only to find out it's still too far away when I started it up. I have not messed with the fast idle screw. The 73 manual even says to put 500 miles on the car before adjusting the fast idle. Could it be in too far still? I guess because of the size restrictions the photo is enlarged but hopefully you can see.

Looks like you need a longer curb idle screw.

Really they are different on different models? I didn't even consider that as being a problem. I got this TQ about 6-7 years back a few weeks after I got the car. I was going to put it on and run the car but the car was such a mess. I got it at a parts store as a remanufactured unit. At the time I didn't have any other options. The numbers on this TQ are 9096S. It is supposse to be from a 1977 Truck with a 440 and Automatic Transmission Intended for California use. This was according to a TQ id # list I found online. So would the screw be different for that application? I don't know if the remanufacturing company was using just the body as a core or just rebuilding the core using the original parts and replacing what's worn. Where do I get a new screw at?

I can see from your pic that the s link for your accelerator pump is backwards, makes me wonder what else might be out of adjustment. Everything else that you are showing looks normal to me. I'm no expert on the TQ's but I am having to learn mine. Where are the air/fuel screws set at on yours? If they are too far in that will idle you way down. Here is a link, look at the upper left picture. You can click on it to enlarge it.

http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Carter/Thermoquad/1972/images/1972TQ_0007_jpg.jpg

EDIT; After you get the s link switched around "lightly" seat the air/fuel screws and back them out 2 and 1/2 turns it also looks like your fast idle screw is way to far in also. Back it out some. I suspect that you will have to tinker some to get it right it's the nature of the beast. You are running a spreadbore intake correct?

Some more good stuff here:
http://www.thermoquads.com/page204.html

Found this TQ manual:
http://carburetor.ca/pdf_manuals/Carter/1972TQmanual.pdf

May have to adjust fast idle screw to the correct position before adjusting the curb idle screw.

I am running a spreadbore manifold correct for 73 with 73 casting numbers. I'll take a look at that manual. That should help out. How important is the idle stop solenoid? I see there is a screw hole on the RH front side of the carb where it should go. But it didn't come with it and it's missing the arm that goes on the carb shaft. I looked at the factory 73 wiring diagram and it looks like it plugs straight into the alternator. But I don't have a plug on the harness that would plug into an idle stop solenoid. I will be running factory A/C, I hope it won't cause many problems. Maybe I'll have to run it a little higher idle to compensate for the A/C. I'm sure I'll get it figured out but I've got to have someone else look at it.

The idle stop solenoid is there to make sure the engine doesn't continue to run-on after it's shut off.
Used for emission purposes. I think the manual will describe it's function better.
IMO it's not necessary to have one.

I changed around that S spring according to the manual link posted here. After reading that manual I don't think turning the idle speed stop screw above the fast idle screw was used originally to adjust the idle speed. According to this manual it looks like they adjusted it by turning the screw on the idle stop solenoid. The only way that curb idle screw touches is if I put the fast idle screw on the lowest step of the cam, then the curb idle screw touches. But as soo as you start it up it's back to the same, still running 150-200RPM too low. I can't find those idle speed solenoids anywhere anymore. It looks like I need it all too, the solenoid, bracket, and arm. Where could I get one?

As I said last post if your air fuel screws are in too far that will idle you down.Did you lightly seat them and back them out 2 and 1/2 turns. That's a good baseline to start with. And no you don't need the idle stop, I don't run one and I have no problems. A couple of us have suggested this and you have made no mention of attempting it. The air fuel mix is an integral part of tuning.

I was looking at the picture again, where do you have your vacuum advance hooked up at? Is it ported(hooked to carb) or manifold vacuum?

I still haven't messed with the mixture screws because I don't feel like I would know what sounds right on the engine. I keep waiting on my friend to come over and help me on the adjust. He's said he was on his way over the past three weeks on Sunday and on Monday because he always forgot on Sunday. But here it is again another Monday he said he was on his way to help and he didn't show up. So I'm going to either try it myself or try and find someone else who can help. I looked at another Thermoquad someone had and compared the idle stop screws because I saw in a reply my idle screw may be too short. It's definitely a different screw in my carb than the other one I looked at. They were around the same year 1976. It was a few threads longer and it had a raised tip, whereas the one in mine is just a few threads shorter with a flat bottom. Don't know if it's enough to make a difference though, the lengths were pretty close. What if I can't keep it idling high enough to stay running while I adjust the mixture? Should I run the screws in lightly with the engine off as a base setting? I've got every vacuum line hooked up on the car exact how it should. I'm using everything the car should have on it. So I've got the vacuum canister hooked up, the OSAC valve, the Ported Vacuum switch and the Air Cleaner Heated Inlet Air. I finally got my exhaust manifold heat stove in the mail today too. If I can get it running good without the idle stop solenoid I will, but will be looking to add it if I can find all the components.

You should adjust the idle mixture screws per previous instructions. If you don't feel secure then count how many turns it took to bottom them out and remember that so you can always back them out to original position. And don't screw them in super tight ! The tips of those screws are pointed and fragile. Hopefully, the idle will come back up the 200rpms you needed. As for the curb idle screw, the missing threads and flattened tip seems strange like someone grounded it down. Can you guestimate that if the missing threads plus the raised tip were restored, the curb idle screw would be just the right length you needed ?
Good Luck.

You're making too big a deal about the idle mixture screws.
With the engine off just turn them both clockwise until they lightly bottom out then back them off 2 and 1/2 turns.
then fire up the engine and hope the idle is at 800-850 rpms. In fact, if the idle still doesn't change then just leave those screws as they are because all you did was reset them to initial position per the factory. No harm in that. And you asked what does a correct idle sound like ?
It sounds slower than the former 1200rpms and faster than the current 650 rpms. LOL

I finally was able to get my buddy over to help adjust it. He did the exact thing I was told here. He moved the mixture screws and backed them out 2 turns. It ran for awhile and we got the idle about right 800-850. That curb idle screw was shorter than the one from another TQ. So I actually swapped it with one from a Holley 1920 1BBL which was the same length as the other TQ. I wasn't able to keep the screw from the other TQ because the guy didn't want to break up a good carb for that. Then after awhile it started to automatically idle up to 900-1000 and then the fan clutch came on. I checked the gauge and it was getting pretty hot so we shut it off. It may have been low on coolant. The expansion tank was empty and when we shut it off and I released the radiator cap valve it all went back in the tank. It didn't overfill or anything like that. Everything's new on this motor. Water pump, temp gauge, ported vacuum switch, thermostat, hoses, radiator, water valve, heater core. So it may not have all been full. Or do I need to run it with the cap off to bleed out the air? I guess it will get hot just idling but I guess that ported vacuum switch was working maybe that's why it idled up. Plus a valve cover kept dripping ever few mins right on the manifold and it was annoying. Do I need to put a fan in front of the radiator while adjusting the carb idling? What about that Water Wetter stuff from Redline, is that worth putting in? I sure don't want to melt the motor just adjusting the carb. It got pretty close to the H on the gauge. I can see this might be a problem on this motor. The thing sucks up coolant, the radiator is a little bigger than factory, like 27x1 1/2 core. I do have an original 28" shroud, new HD fan clutch, and 7 blade 20" fan.

I'm glad you got the idle to 800-850rpms.

But why did the engine temp almost get to H so fast just by adjusting carb idle ?

Did you fill your radiator with enough water ?! The level should be about 1" shy of the filler neck. Yes, Water Wetter is a good thing to add, can't hurt. Just don't add too much anti-freeze as Water Wetter works best with straight water however, you do need some anti-freeze for anti-corrosion protection. Less than 50/50 mixture is okay.
No, you don't have to leave the radiator cap off to vent.
Best to leave it on because as radiator/coolant gets hotter, the pressure cap actually helps suppress overheating.

What t stat are you running? I run 180 in mine and no problems. It might help if you raise the front of the car and burp the system. Raising the front will help in getting the cooling system free of air. Once you have done that fill the rad and run it for a few minutes to get it up to temp. Let it cool a bit and recheck your levels. I drilled 4 - 1/4 holes in my t stat around the spring to allow the coolant to move some before the t stat opens. You might want to check the stat in a pan of water, place it in there and let it heat up, if you have a thermometer that you can track the heat level and see if it is opening at the proper temp. It is possible that you got a bad stat, seen it before.

I'm running a 180 thermostat. I'm running a 16LBS cap I think is what it said on the top. I don't know if it makes a difference but the temperature outside was in the 90's and high humidity here in GA. It was in the garage with all doors and windows in garage open. The hood is still off too. I don't know why it got up that hot so quick. It pulled all of the coolant from the reserve system but when we shut it off and lifted the radiator cap release valve it put all that coolant back in to the reserve tank. So I don't know if it was low or not. It's been sitting for 5-6 hours now off and I went and looked under the cap and I can see coolant. My luck it's probably a stopped water passage or something major. We had it idling for 10-15 mins. I know several mechanics have told me the added friction of a newly rebuilt engine will cause it to get hot a lot quicker until it's broken in. This motor definitely gets hot quick just the feel of it. So I don't know if it will settle down if it gets out on the road with some air coming through. It hasn't been on the road since I've gotten the motor back in which was several months ago. I've been doing all the labor and trying to figure out the problems by myself and with help here so it takes me a lot longer to figure it all out. I will get some more coolant and some Water Wetter tomorrow. I only had less than what it called for on the bottle because I used it on another car. Amazingly there are no leaks from underneath and no coolant smell.

I checked my papers I am running a 180 thermostat but I believe it may have been a new one that had been sitting in the water pump housing for awhile. I talked to some of the veteran mechanics in the area where I work and a couple told me I could drop in maybe a 160 degree thermostat and it should help. They also said you're original gauge could be off. All I know is the fan clutch started working and it idled up automatically meaning the bypass valve was working and it comes on at 225 according to the Chrysler manual. Is it ok to change the thermostat to a 160, top it off with 50/50 and add a bottle of water wetter? Hopefully that will cool things down.

Have you checked the t stat like I suggested to see if it is in fact opening? And at what temp? It could be faulty. I guess you could run 160 but 180 should be sufficient. If you switch the stat out I would just top it off with the wetter and straight water. You don't want to run too much coolant with the wetter as it doesn't work as efficiently. Check that t stat first before you drop to 160 and see if it works.

Here is the thermostat I just pulled out. What a pain to get to the thermostat housing bolt next to the A/C compressor sump. I have no idea how I'll tighten it back up without removing the compressor. I took out this thermostat after it was running hot last week while we were adjusting the idle and mixture. This is what it looked like. I ordered a new one, a Failsafe but I ordered a 160 degree. I see this one is a 180 degree. Is it stuck open or closed? Should I reorder a 180 or is it going to cause any problems putting the 160 degree thermostat in. I know in the 1973 Charger owner's manual it says it doesn't recommend a 160 degree thermostat but I don't know the reasoning behind it. All the shops I've talked to said it should be fine. I can order a 180 degree thermostat it's just going to take a few days for the failsafe one. What likely happened to this thermostat? It's brand new. Any suggestion on what tools I need to successfully tighten the bolt closest to the A/C compressor sump without having to remove it?

Looks like it's stuck open. It is my opinion that you run a 180, stock t stat for mopar engines is 195. A 160 stat in hot climate could be a little rough on the engine IMO. A 160 stat would be OK in a race application or no stat at all. If you run a stat that doesn't allow the engine to warm up to a happy temp it could sludge up your engine. Running a cooler engine will increase power but with a compromise. If you run the 160 I would change your oil more often due to the possibility of sludge buildup. The engine will in effect burn off some of the sludgy crap if it runs a little warmer, at least that is how it was explained to me. Also a warmer engine will expand more than a cooler engine and help reduce wear.

Edit: Do you have a distributor wrench? You might try that, it might get you down and under the obstacle, just a thought.

I guess I'll go to Summit Sunday and pick up a good quality 180 thermostat. Are the Milodon or Mopar Performance thermostats ok? They call them all high-flow thermostats on the Summit website. They also have Mr. Gasket. I went with the Failsafe from Autozone just in case it gets stuck when I'm driving, which it did but wasn't driving it still didn't help though. If I would've been driving I would've had to have pulled over and shut it down anyway.

I just run an over the counter from NAPA, and have had no problems. I'm sure the others would be fine too. Make sure you grab a gasket.