Re: Understanding how to use Advance Timing Light
[Re: 66Dodge]
#740406
07/04/10 07:03 PM
07/04/10 07:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
On most stock crank dampners the marks on it only show +10, +5, 0, -5, -10. When setting your total advance at 2800rpms to 36degrees, that will be hard to figger where that is on the dampner. So with the timing light that has an advance knob, you would set the dial to 36, then shining the light at the timing pointer, you would turn the distributor until the pointer points to 0 on the dampner (much easier to see).
And you can't do this unless you have recalibrated distributor that is fully advanced before said 2800 RPM's
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Re: Understanding how to use Advance Timing Light
[Re: wh23g3g]
#740408
07/04/10 07:27 PM
07/04/10 07:27 PM
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153 Georgia
wh23g3g
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Georgia
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Ok I went out and followed what you said RapidRobert and I got it perfectly aligned with 10BTC. The motor settled down and idled lower. It's still idling a little higher than it should at about 1000-1100. You can tell it's still idling a little on the high side. So I know I need to readjust. I have the air cleaner off because there's no way to get to the curb idle screw on the Thermoquad with the air cleaner on. So I hooked back up the vacuum advance. I have the air cleaner hose port on the back of carb plugged up while the air cleaner is off. I sat there and turned out the curb idle screw but it never changed the idle. One thing I'm noticing is the carb has a lot of smoke coming out of it after you shut it off. It probably needs the mixture adjusted. I really don't know how to do that. One veteran mechanic told me to not mess with it and let it run a little lean or rich I can't remember what he said, but he says if you changed it right away it might melt a piston. I can feel the fumes, it burns my eyes a little. And you can smell it on your clothes while out there adjusting. But I checked the timing again after I tightened the screw and it's still dead on 10. So what do I need to do now. Oh yeah I forgot to add that when I finally got the timing right the oil pressure dropped from 75PSI to about 30-35PSI. I'm assuming that's because it was running at 1000 vs 1200 RPM. It just shocked for a second. But that's correct isn't it? I've got HP pump there and when it was running before the timing was adjusted it was 75PSI. So is that normal?
Last edited by wh23g3g; 07/04/10 07:30 PM.
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Re: Understanding how to use Advance Timing Light
[Re: 66Dodge]
#740414
07/04/10 09:31 PM
07/04/10 09:31 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 862 Iowa State fan
kilroy
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 862
Iowa State fan
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dont forget the ever present idle speeding up vacuum leak..
1973 Charger, former SE, former auto
I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
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Re: Understanding how to use Advance Timing Light
[Re: wh23g3g]
#740418
07/05/10 09:55 PM
07/05/10 09:55 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216 Under My Car
Mopar_Country
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,216
Under My Car
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Quote:
It is the stock replacement carb, the Carter Thermoquad. It is definitely the curb idle screw I am turning out. I turned it out just a little bit, but I thought the idle should drop right away some. So I may not have turned it out far enough. I did change the throttle cable. I got one from Pioneer. I compared it to the original cable and it was the same length, the only difference being the grommet was larger on the original. I don't think anything is sticking I had someone watch the linkage and everything's moving freely when I press in the gas. I was talking to a friend last night and he told me something that could make a difference but I don't know. He said because I have the air cleaner off it's sucking in more air so it might idle a little higher. I had to remove the air cleaner because it's impossible to adjust the curb idle with it on. So when I took it off I did plug the vacuum port on the carb where the air cleaner vacuum hose went to. I don't really know anyone that could properly adjust the mixture screws. But I say a exhaust gas analyzer for sale on EBAY for $230 w/ digital readout. Would that be helpful if I had it?
Turn that curb idle screw out until you get it where you need it. When you adjust the air/fuel screws "lightly" seat them and back them out 1 1/2 to 2 turns like the previous poster said. I run a TQ on my engine and it can be a tricky gadget for sure. IF your idle doesn't drop when you back the idle down check for vacuum leaks. What intake are you running, spreadbore I hope. Forget the analyzer, if you want to spend some money I would get a vacuum gauge instead. Adjusting the screws is not that big of a deal, you can do it. As far as idling faster with the air cleaner off, mine doesn't. As far as your linkage are you sure it's letting the throttle come to full rest, if you have it too tight that could keep you in the throttle circuit and not allow the idle circuit to come into play. If you continue to wonder simply unhook the throttle cable and start the engine and see if that makes a difference.
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