I've a 65 dodge dart with a 225 /6. I had some vapor lock issues and am trying to convert from the manual to an electric fuel pump. I don't know which wire to splice into to connect the positive wire! I'm always slightly lost when it comes to electrical on cars.

I'm not even sure how many volts/amps the thing needs since it doesn't say on the directions. The only hint is that it want's a 20amp fuse on the postive wire. I think the napa guy said something off handed about wanting at least 15 volts but I could have got that wrong as we weren't really talking about it and I don't think he really knew.

The directions said to connect negative under the mounting bolt which I did. They mention trying to connect the positive after the oil safty switch but I don't think I have one of those.

I've noticed a few un used wires hanging out. in the picts the red one disapears into a bunch of wires wraped together some of which run to the alternator.

The black one ends up at the voltage regulator? but is connected at the side not either end. was some previous owner just trying to find ground?

I don't think either has power when the ignition is on though. but I may have tested wrong.

Previous pic shows new fuel pump mounted on the side wall behind the alternator. where red wire groups up with wires going to alternator is pointed out.

this pic is of the loose wires.

back of engine compartment showing a bunch of electrical connections. loose black wire connection to what I think is the voltage regulator

more back of the engine electrical connections

directions that came with new pump

wiring diagram from new pump directions.

a wireing digram for the origial tech manual. i don't know if these will be viewable (maybe download picture (attachment)?)

a wireing digram for the origial tech manual.

a wireing diagram for the origial tech manual. last post thanks in advance for the help!

Before you try and bastardize in a fuel pump, did you try rerouting the fuel line over the top of the valve cover and away from the front of the block/exhaust manifold? That alone solves the problem 99% of the time.

no I didn't but I did add insulation to the lines. I just hate being stranded somewhere and don't want to have to hope that it's solved. I read that converting to an electric fuel pump will solve the problem for certain.

Here's the deal about all the work you are making for yourself.

I agree that there may be another cure, who knows what it is? You may have a damaged/ partially plugged line, or screen in the tank, or the suction hoses may be collapsing. The mechanical pump may not be up to par.

HOWEVER the ONE BIG THING with adding an electric pump, is that to be truely effective, IT SHOULD BE IN THE REAR, ------

When a pump is up front, it creates low pressure (suction) in the feed line from the tank. THIS LOWERS THE PRESSURE and can actually make vapor lock worse.

Also, by installing the new pump in the engine bay, instead of the rear, you are subjecting it to some of the same heat--and possibly same vapor lock problem--as the old pump. You may not have improved a thing.

There are hundreds of thousands of slant six cars and trucks made, that ran (still run) for a long long time, using the stock mechanical pumps.

Is the fuel tank properly vented?

Is the screen in the tank damaged/ plugged?

The feedline hoses in good condition?

Has the exhaust/ feedline been run close together?

Is the mechanical pump "up to par"?

(There are pressure/ suction and volume tests you can perform)

Is the engine "running hot?"

Is the carb "boiling in the bowl?" due to a number of things?

Possibly a carb insulator/ spacer would help

If you run "snorkel heat" to the air cleaner, running without it may help

Otherwise, install the pump at the tank. Do it right, and run #12 or better, #10 wire to the front. Best way would be to wire in a relay hooked to the "ignition run" terminal.

Believe it or not, it would NOT be all that tough to incorporate this relay to the oil pressure switch, but you would have to crank the engine fast enough to "kill" the oil light in order to get the pump working.

Grab a test light and look for a wire that has 12v with the key on only. That is the feed you need. You can get a cheap test light at any parts store if you don't have one.

Thanks for all the help. I spent more time and tracing wires and have at least identified what box is what attached to the fire wall. the un attached red wire ended up being the connection for the old oil pressure safety switch. An oil pressure gauge has been installed and now a small hose runs from the sensor to the gauge. I'm thinking the old wire will work but got distracted and ran out of time. I think I can find something to connect to now.

It sounds like I may have jumped the gun on the electric pump. I'll try fixing some other things first. Seems I need to mount it in the back. For now I put the old manual one back and will try the electric conversion after I fix some other things. and get more info.