I would use the Comp XE295HL with those heads and converter.It really idles quite well and I had it in my last engine and loved it.
The 509 is a good cam but I really think you will be disappointed unless you go with a more modern hydraulic profile with some updated ramp designs to help the low end
Gus

I would stick with the solid lifter cam.

The Indy SR heads have big ports which pushes the HP peak RPM up, and the longer valves which adds weight to the valvetrain.

Install a modern, fast acting hydraulic cam in there like a Comp XE295HL, or a Hughes and you will likely run into valve float before you hit peak HP. More valve spring will only compound the instability problem.

If the goal is to slow down, go with a hydraulic, as it will keep you far below your potential with those SR heads.

You won't be getting away from an adjustable valvetrain, as your rockers will still have adjusters.

just because its old doesn't mean its no good.yes you must get your package right.
i built my 440 initially with 906,10.4:1, heads with this cam,mopar springs,M1,825 mighty demon,727,3.91 gears,convert flashed to 4000.this ran low 11.8's.fitted prepped stealths,10.78:1, and took alittle weight out it ran mid 11.4's
fitted a new dynamic9 1/2 convert,flashes to 5000 car went 11.302 on Sunday.
Sounds tough as but needs 10.4+ comp,4500 + vert and minimum 3.9 gears when fitted with 28" tyre.
Mine is set straight up to spec.
Idles at 750/775 in gear.Daily driver plus interstate miles.
main drawback is low manifold vacuum,had to run a vacuum pump for the power brakes.
more lift would be nice but as i said it does work and is easy on the valve train
Tex

good looking car, to get a little off subject here, i'm interested in the rear wheel and tire size and any mods you did to stuff it in there.

decent cam but it likes a lot of compression stall and gear. It's not going to run 11's w/ your convert and gear. I'd keep the solid in if I were you. They are really easy to deal with. If you go to a hydro cam, get something better for your application. There are many new grinds out there that will give you better results. The 509 is lazy until about 3k.

Yeah, if it's not a daily driver, which it looks not to be, I'd stay with the solid tappet cam.

Not mentioned, but most HP cams, including the MP 509, are ground/machined to have a smaller "base circle" to achieve the higher lift while using a common cam core. What this means to you, is the lifter drops more when rotating on the heel of the cam and it can actually create unwanted lash and a loss of lift (inherent valvenoise is the first clue). Hence, longer pushrods and/or adjustable valvetrain are required anyways.

I'm with Zippy on this one too. You've got the better heads, use 'em. Good aftermarket rockers will hold adjustment.

To everyone that has repied to my ad thanks,!!
** let me start by saying i know indy heads need more than a 509 cam i have a real nice set of 906 heads that have had port work with the bigger valves.! i also have a set of 4:30 Gears i can put in the back,!
I put this motor combo together that is in the car * but i am not a real big fan of solid lift cams if this offened some i am sorry.
I am looking to see what type combos other have put together for street use.! I want it to be more dependable and street friendly with a ( HDY CAM & LIFTER SET UP WITH THE 906 HEADS OR A SET OF EDDY HEADS I HAVE ALSO I HAVE A FRIEND THAT HAS A 70 CHALLENGER WITH A 440 AND HAS THE 284/484 CAM IN IT AND 1.5 ROCKER ARMS AND SINCE IT WAS PUT TOGETHER HE HAS NEVER HAD TO ADJUST THEM AT ALL.!

** I KNOW I CAN GET A KILLER STREET MOTOR WITH A ( HDY CAM & LIFTERS ) I JUST WANT OTHER IN PUT TO LOOK AT MY CHOICES.!

THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HAS REPLIED.!

First of all the 509 will work on the indy heads but you nay be leaving a little at the table.
But 1.6 rockers will bring it up to .544 lift
Second who told you you had to set solids all the time I ran mine fore years with a solid on the street with just crane gold rockers would set them in the spring and forget. drive to work shows about town and race 10 to 15 times a year and never check them. Once went almost two years as I forgot my sping check. trick is to tighten the locking nut nice and tight and on a mopar they stay put. Now on a chevy they move all over and need to be set weekly and even between runs.
I now run a 700 lift roller just race but i set them once that's plenty.
On SR EZ or 440-1's set them cold .008 to .010 tighter than you want on the intake and .006 to .008 tighter on the exhaust.
I ran my ultradyne at .006 and .008 cold lash. and it loved it.

If you want a real bad ass hydraulic get the .533 320 duration install it at 104 (or better to 102) and maybe swap to 1.6 rockers giving .569 lift

Call Scott Brown at Competition Components, LLC
www.buyracingparts.com, Office: 616-499-6223 he can grind you up a cam that will work for whatever application you like. I'm running a 540-548 solid in my 440-6, So far I like it and I have'nt even begun to tune on it. Pulls 14-15 lbs of vaccumm at idle, has some chop, but not to much and pulls and sounds great. I can't wait to get the car back from the professional and take it for a real blast.

I never said you had to set the adjustments all the time.!! on a solid lift cam .

You seem to have inferred it by this quote!

(HDY CAM & LIFTER SET UP WITH THE 906 HEADS OR A SET OF EDDY HEADS I HAVE ALSO I HAVE A FRIEND THAT HAS A 70 CHALLENGER WITH A 440 AND HAS THE 284/484 CAM IN IT AND 1.5 ROCKER ARMS AND SINCE IT WAS PUT TOGETHER HE HAS NEVER HAD TO ADJUST THEM AT ALL.!)


Sorry I read what you were trying to say wrong!

If it seemed that way i am sorry i was just saying that other have made it a point that solid lift cams need to have more care giving to them.

I had someone say that even if you use a HYD CAM & LIFTERS AND ADJUSTABLE ROCKERS ARM YOU STILL NEED TO CHECK THEM THIS MAY BE TRUE SOME BUT ALOT LESS THAN WITH A SOLID LIFT CAM.
** I HAVE ASK THIS QUESTION BECAUSE I THINK THAT A HDY CAM & LIFTERS IN A GOOD STREET MOTOR IS MORE RELIABLE & STREETABLE THAN A SOILD LIFT CAM MOTOR AND A MORE DAILY DRIVER FRIENDLY TO USE NOW THAT WHAT I THINK.

** YES I AGREE THEY CAN BE NOISEY AND I GUESS THAT WOULD BE ONE THING I DON'T CARE FOR.!

Hyd cams are actually less reliable andless streetable than a solid. That's assuming you aren't comparing a mild hydraulic to a radical solid.

For a given duration and lift, a solid will give the same top end power and a smoother low end operation, i.e. more vacuum.

I've never heard of a solid lifter collapsing or pumping up. That's reliability.

As for adjustments....we're not old ladies, are we? We like to work on our cars, don't we?

Every solid I've ever used in a BB Mopar went like this: install it with a cold setting on lash. Drive it around a few hundred miles. Reset the lash one time. It never moves again. You can recheck it all you want. It never moves again. No big deal.

** FAN SHROUD THAT IS BEING MADE FOR ME SHOULD HAVE IT ON SOON.!!!!!

old motors early 273's were all solids.
Tightening the lash quiets them down.
Still boils down to nice tight lock nuts then nothing moves.

Oh cap locks is considered yelling!

Oh i had to read that again sorry i hit that cap lock some times and don't see it till i am done.!

* I did not know that about the cap lock so if i offened anyone i am sorry.!