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torsion bar help #727616
06/18/10 06:35 PM
06/18/10 06:35 PM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 162
MA.
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plymguy Offline OP
member
plymguy  Offline OP
member
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 162
MA.
I am having a problem removing the passenger side torsion bar from my '67 Fury parts car. I have removed the tension bolt and nut, the rear bar clip and the spindle. I bought a removing tool but the bar is not budging. The lower control arm moves freely up and down but the piece that the tension bolt goes up against does not move. Is it supposed to move or should it be stationary and also should the front bar anchor move up and down with the control arm? It does not move. Thanks for any info here.
John

Re: torsion bar help [Re: plymguy] #727617
06/18/10 08:09 PM
06/18/10 08:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
Kern Dog  Offline
Striving for excellence

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
I am sorry if my following info doesn't apply, as my knowledge is primarily A and B body stuff.
I have had trouble getting the T bars out on occaision. Sometimes I have to remove the lower control arm and pry it rearward, taking the T bar with it. This of course requires removal of the strut rod bolt and bushing. I have found that you can put the lower control arm back in and then slide the T bar back in by itself when the time comes. Good luck. Its good to hear of C body guys keeping their cars intact instead of using them for engine donors!

Re: torsion bar help [Re: Kern Dog] #727618
06/18/10 08:20 PM
06/18/10 08:20 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
what he said

if its on jackstands and the nose is hanging(stands behind the k frame) you might try to use a jack and raise the front of car/k frame so its not putting the bar in a bind from LCA and the xmember mounting points

then try the tool on the bar and a BFH to knock it back

but like said...some time you have to pry the lca and pivot shaft out of the k frame pushing the bar back with it

good luck

Re: torsion bar help [Re: scratchnfotraction] #727619
06/18/10 08:29 PM
06/18/10 08:29 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
Kern Dog  Offline
Striving for excellence

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
The jackstand idea makes sense. These cars were solid when they were built, but years of use had certainly tweaked the chassis enough to soften them up some. The "droop" of the front section CAN put the car in a slight arc and bind the T bars. I have parted out cars and found this to be true. The floor jack under the K member relieves the tension...Kinda like a beer or something.

Re: torsion bar help [Re: Kern Dog] #727620
06/18/10 10:38 PM
06/18/10 10:38 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
minot north dakota
ledft79 Offline
mopar
ledft79  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 587
minot north dakota
If you're junking the torsion bars, try 2 pipe wrenches, 1 from each direction, work it back and forth, hammer on them if need be. Use lube where it is stuck, it should work loose. My E body ones came out easy, with no effort at all.


DRIVE EM, DONT HIDE EM.
Re: torsion bar help [Re: plymguy] #727621
06/19/10 12:37 AM
06/19/10 12:37 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 669
Los Osos, Ca
C
CKessel Offline
mopar
CKessel  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 669
Los Osos, Ca
I'll pass one to you that I learned at the junk yard university. I was picking up some suspension pieces for my nephews Dart and needed to remove the bars. Since I didn't have or own the handy dandy removal tool I improvised and it has worked ever since. First back off the adjuster bolt ALL the way for the bar. Pry the adjuster finger up then knock it down as far as it will go. Pry it up as far as it will go. Do this several times. As you are doing this take note of how far the finger moves up and down. Then try to position the finger at about half its travel. The bar should slide out with minimal effort by hand. One thing you may not know is that the flats on the original bars are actually at a bit of a helix or spiral instead of parralel to the bar. This is one of the reasons they can be fun to get out.


Carl Kessel






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