okay my 440 cam flat spot on a cam lobe why does that happen. it was fresh motor with less then 8oo miles on it it was a mopar performance resto mod cam. my next question is my car has 346 heads 10.1 compression i wanna put a bigger cam in it i liked the resto mod but i wanna little more power this is a street car any suggestions.

Improper break in, or a tight lifter could be couple causes

After a couple of flat cams it's cheaper in the long run to just put in a roller cam

Like $1,300 for a roller vs. $250-300 for a flat tappet cam plus lifters is cheaper in the long run? Must have wiped out a few lobes in your time.

There are a lot better grinds out now...I would not be looking at Mopar Performance for your answer. Look at Comp and Lunati, even the cheap Summit cam is worth a look.

And you did use a break-in oil additive and ensure an adequate Zinc/phosphorus content right?

Wiped out a couple over the years (25 plus years 3 or so wiped out) with different cams and motors. I finally figured if you want performance and don't want to fiddle around...

Plus you don't have to wonder if a cam went flat when you have issues. Easier to sell old grinds or have them reground if you don't like them.

yea im gonna check the comp out this going a 65 sport fury with a 4 speed was just. Wondering what a good cwould be with 10.1 comp with a 4 speed that i want a nice solid street car

I am thinking of running with this cam http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=718&sb=2 just wondering if it is good idea. Or what i have roughly 10.1 compression and a 4 speed dual plain elderbrock performer intake and 750 eddy carb mopar performance igition all feed back apreciated.

I would run the XE275HL in your case. How far down are the pistons in the hole? Yeah and what gear are you running?

What is your compression exactly? What pistons? CC of head? Head gasket thickness? Deck height?

Most of the recommendations you will get here will be WAY on the conservative side. Lot of naysayers here.

Anyway, what gears are you using?

Dump that intake in the trash, first of all. Street dominator, M1 or RPM is what Id use.

If you want a relatively cheap cam that thumps hard and runs good, stick a Comp 292 in it.

Buddy has a 68 Sat with the 292 Comp stick, mild ported 906s, Torker intake,750DP, headers, decent vert, and 3.23s. Low compression, 8.5 to 9 at best, and HIGH miles on the shortblock. Car ran in the 12.30s and he drives it almost every day.

If you asked on here if the Comp 292 would work with 3.23s you would get laughed at.



As far as wiping a lobe, what valvesprings are you using? What oil did you break it in with?

I'm running 3.23 gears i will not be dumping the intake just bought it awile back so gotta put it to some use i think my heads were 88 cc if i remember right i have speed pro forged pistons that are 10.1 suposably ill have to check the deck height not sure anymore

Another vote for ditching the intake, with the cam I'd say your close, I'd be worried about what your springs are setup for. You can definitely go bigger on the cam, 4 gear helps that....

I like your cam choice, but think you would be better off with a torker II intake or possibly a Holley Street Dominator. Its what I run and really enjoy it.
mike

What kind of oil are you using? Most oil does not contain enough Zinc these days to perform properly in a non-roller application, especially during cam break-in.

When you install the new cam, be sure to use a "racing oil" that contains a sufficient amount of Zinc. The lack of Zinc has become the number one cause of camshaft lobe problems with non-roller cam engines. I would use it not only for break-in, but for the life of the engine.

yea the springs have me a little worried also eveything is new. it was just built around to run with the restomod cam i really wanna go with the cam i posted the link too. you guys might have talked me into getting a diffrent intake keep in mind im running 3.23 gears cause i do a fair amount of highway driving.Whats will happen if my springs are too week will it wreck anything or just run crappy.

what weight of racing oil would be good to use

20-50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil. You can always run the intake you have and change it later. Its not hard to change after on a big block.

More important IMO than the brand or weight of oil is to do a proper cam break-in and also run a zinc additive at all times after that as well. I'm swapping to a used roller myself..............

When my engines are broken in , prelube with 30wt. Never used the thick break in greases, wouldn't they take up the entire .003" oil clearances?

Never rubbed a cam lobe dry. Also most builds were performer style engines .420-.450 lift, 210-218 durations, 3.23 gears and 4 speeds. Nothing but 30 wt.

okay what is the proper way to break a cam in and also. Is it a bad idea to run some engine lucas in the motor after i break the cam

Use the cam assembly lubs that came in the cam kit. smear it all over the cam lobes and bearings. I also put some on the BOTTOM of the lifters. If the engine has been sitting a long time or is fresh you might want to prime it. I used 10w40 for the last break in but 30 weight is good. Also you need to find a additive w/ zinc. I use an additive From advanced auto, Presolene (or something like that) It has all the old stuff in it that oils used to have. So far so good. Then let it run for 20-25 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. Drain the oil and change filter and roll on.

and yes always use somekind of zinc additive every oil change.

think me not running the zinc additive is why my cam lobe got wiped out just curious. Also bent a push rod next friday were gonna be putting together im using a bottle of comp cam oil. i bought two bottles of additive figure i will run one in every change.