I believe I have a shorted gauge in my 1970 e body with rallye gauges. I was told to check for 13 ohms to ground to test. If there is a zero reading the gauge is bad. There are two posts on the gauge (one from the resulator and the other from sending unit). Which post do I check to ground or does it matter?

I think I'm missing something but take both wires off of the gauge terminals and check each gauge post to ground which would check the gauge body itself for a dead short (dont want continuity as in zero ohms to ground)

if you are sure the cluster voltage limiter is in working order, you simply can keep it conected to gauge and ground the other post. No matter wich one goes where as far gets a positive constant source from limiter and the ground ( even for facility they are usually labeled ) what is the colored wire coming from sender.

Ofr course test with key in RUN

if you are unsure about voltage limiter conditionds a 9 volts batt will work to make a test using + and - to both posts, but just hold it for around two seconds to check for needle movement. They are designed to get 5 volts.

Great advice. I think I found the problem. I am waiting for my solid state voltage limiter to arrive. I tested all three gauges with a 9V battery as suggested. The oil and temp gauges don't move but the fuel gauge moves. I guess that means that the oil and temp gauges are shorted which could explain blowing the cluster regulator. Anyone have any spare rallye gauges? Thanks again, Gerry.