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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: Commando1]
#677082
04/22/10 10:11 AM
04/22/10 10:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
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Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
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Personally I would shy away from them, as cables stretch and what not (I had a car with a cable and went to hydraulic) but like you said, it is commmon..all of the fox body Mustangs use a cable (and then try to fix the setup with adjustable do-dads and what not  ...at least my buddy needed that on his) Just check out a fox body car to see if you could swap it all over if you were curious..
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: OzHemi]
#677083
04/22/10 11:08 AM
04/22/10 11:08 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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Quote:
Personally I would shy away from them, as cables stretch and what not (
I agree. I was dead against the cable option. But, unfortunately, it is now my last and only option. Just hoping someone has done it to a Mopar, for good or bad... 
So this isn't really a thread to discuss the merits of mechanical vs. hydraulic vs. cable. I know those already.
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: Commando1]
#677088
04/22/10 04:10 PM
04/22/10 04:10 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Quote:
..you have ABSOLUTELY NO OPTION???? for hyd or mechanical?.... 
If you saw it, you'd agree.
It's, ummmm.... Unique.
But it will get done. 
you have the option with a hydualic set up to have the throwout bearing itself operate, or use a hydualic slave cylinder to activate an arm, activating the TO bearing,...I assume your using a TO bearing?
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: Commando1]
#677089
04/22/10 06:08 PM
04/22/10 06:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,831
N.E. Ohio
6bblFLASH
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,831
N.E. Ohio
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I have a cable in my Cuda`. Made everthing from scratch except the cable. Its a 1/4 MORSE cable and plenty strong. There is NO reason you could not make it work also. I would`nt expect it to last 100,000mi. with an 18spd gearbox tho. Street or strip?
Last edited by 6bblFLASH; 04/22/10 06:12 PM.
70` Cuda`,440 6BBL Jerico,Dana 4.56 Still on 93 Pump Gas
9.87 @ 136/1.31-60ft.`09 Mopar Nationals PASSON PERFORMANCE "Stick-Shift" Champ!
2013 StickShift Challenge Winner@ Mopar Nationals!
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#677092
04/22/10 07:44 PM
04/22/10 07:44 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
All the 80's fwd mopars had them. No problems. You replace the clutch cable once in the lifetime of the car.
But the "lifetime" of an 80's FWD mopar was usually no more 5 years, (hence the 5/50 ) or when the transaxle blew, or the head cracked at 60K, or the head gasket went around at 40K+
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: 6bblFLASH]
#677093
04/23/10 04:03 PM
04/23/10 04:03 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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Quote:
I have a cable in my Cuda`. Made everthing from scratch except the cable. Its a 1/4 MORSE cable and plenty strong.
Street or strip?
Yah, I've been burning the midnight oil studying this and it will have to be fabbed/modded/whatever almost from scratch using aftermarket components. You wouldn't have any pics of your setup, would you? I'm assuming the cable attachment to the clutch pedal has to be above the pivot point so as to "pull" the cable when stepping on the clutch? Yes?
Re: TO bearing. Yes.
Re: Street or strip. Street.
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: Commando1]
#677094
04/24/10 05:07 PM
04/24/10 05:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
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The cable would be 3rd on my list of favourable clutch control. Hydraulic, linkage (especially on a Mopar since parts are available) then cable.
The problem with a fox Mustang cable is they hold the sheath and pull the cable from in the car. The system is called a quadrant and would require a pile of work to retrofit into something else.
As for cables stretching. No, Mustang cables last thousands of miles and many years pulling on 3200lbs pressure plates all day long. Some minor stretch would not steer me away from this idea. Even if it did, a few turns of the thread would easily fix.
69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: Commando1]
#677095
04/24/10 06:50 PM
04/24/10 06:50 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
I'm assuming the cable attachment to the clutch pedal has to be above the pivot point so as to "pull" the cable when stepping on the clutch? Yes?
Yes, this is what chrysler did in the 80's on the fwds. They had a bracket on the strut tower to hole the cable sleeve, then the pedal pulled on the cable. On the trans end, the trans had a boss for the cable sleeve to sit in, then the cable itself pulled on the clutch fork. Seems to me the idea would be pretty easy to make work on another vehicle, the only hard part would be setting up the clutch pedal for pull operation. You should grab a junkyard clutch pedal from one of these cars and make it work. You could even cut the pedal part off and weld on your pedal/arm so it still looked like a stock clutch.
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#677096
04/24/10 07:49 PM
04/24/10 07:49 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,109
Hiram, Georgia
474218
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,109
Hiram, Georgia
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Quote:
Yes, this is what chrysler did in the 80's on the fwds. They had a bracket on the strut tower to hole the cable sleeve, then the pedal pulled on the cable. On the trans end, the trans had a boss for the cable sleeve to sit in, then the cable itself pulled on the clutch fork. Seems to me the idea would be pretty easy to make work on another vehicle, the only hard part would be setting up the clutch pedal for pull operation. You should grab a junkyard clutch pedal from one of these cars and make it work. You could even cut the pedal part off and weld on your pedal/arm so it still looked like a stock clutch.
I have had four FWD Mopars with cable operated clutches. I put on close to 750,000 miles on them and only had one clutch cable failure. As for strech they have a built-in adjuster on the pedel assembly.
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: NV69B7RR]
#677098
04/25/10 01:58 PM
04/25/10 01:58 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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OK. This is good. I'm getting somewhere on this. Like I said, although not my preference, I'm going the cable route. I now have an extra brake pedal assy. that fits my car. I have a Jeep clutch pedal assembly that looks like it will be very easy to graft the clutch pedal onto my brake assy. I'm getting the cable from Summit as suggested earlier. It looks like a good strong cable. QUESTION: While engineering this fabrication, how much "pull" should I allow in terms of length? In other words, how long a pull on the cable will allow for the full travel of the clutch fork? 
Last edited by Commando1; 04/25/10 02:07 PM.
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Re: Cable actuated clutches.
[Re: Fury Fan]
#677100
04/25/10 04:29 PM
04/25/10 04:29 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
Commando1
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,336
South-Central (Sebring), FL
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Quote:
We can't really answer what the distance of pull is, depends on the geometry of the fork...
I should have said 'roughly'...
...very, roughly, in general, aproximately, ballpark range, close enough for government work...
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! This a common problem on the older Mustang T-5 conversions. The problem comes from the cable being pointed straight out for several inches before it can bent out of the way of the headers.