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Engine tuning questions - video included....
#672772
04/17/10 07:06 PM
04/17/10 07:06 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
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So I've finally bolted my exhaust on so it's a little easier to hear myself think under the hood. I'll preface this by saying this is my first actual ground-up rebuild of a v8. I don't have anyone around as an official "mentor", nor do I know anyone I can bribe into acting as one. I'm having a hard time getting a "smooth" idle out of the engine. A couple of things: Starting with the carb IMS's at 1.5 turns out, adjusting the screw on the right outward produces no results, while I continue screwing out. Hmm? Going counter-clockwise (out) with the left screw produces a small increase in idle, but since my idle isn't rock solid stable, it's too difficult to determine. If both screws are bottomed out (accidentally did this earlier), the engine will still run and actually idle pretty well. Hmm? If I unplug my vacuum gauge from the carb base plate, there is no discernible difference in idle speed or quality. These above factors lead me to believe I've got a vacuum leak. The question is: how can I have 22" of vacuum at idle and still have a vacuum leak? Also, you might be able to hear it in the video, you might not. It almost sounds like a "miss" but it isn't constant in the firing cycle. It just isn't smooth, and you can see that when I point the camera at the dwell/tach meter. I do not have any clue if I've timed the engine right. I do not, currently, have a dial back light. I've got a standard light and if I disconnect the vacuum source going to the distributor vacuum pot (and plug it), and shine my light at the balancer at idle, the line is almost an inch below where the 10 mark is on the lower aspect of the timing indicator. I hope that makes sense. Where do I go from here? This will eventually be my daily driver, and I want it to be rock solid. The truck starts on the first crank, throttle response is crisp and sharp, and the engine refires and runs after it's hot and turned off. Please help me get in the right direction here. Thanks, and cheers -Pat  Link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qn3f48QKhTA
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672773
04/17/10 09:45 PM
04/17/10 09:45 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 598
NC, USA
davenc
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 598
NC, USA
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Pat,
Here are a couple of thoughts...in the video the vacuum gauge was at 18 inches, not 22. If the car runs with the IMS closed, then it is getting fuel from somewhere other than the primaries. This could be via a carb leak (bowls not tight), or the secondaries are open too much. Cover the primaries with a rag to block them, and see if the motor still runs. Then, try the same on the secondaries.
What sort of cam and carb does the the engine have? I assume it is a hydraulic cam? The vacuum is fluctuating some, but not a huge amount.
Do the engine run more smoothly at 1500? 2000?
Regards,
Dave
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: davenc]
#672774
04/17/10 10:47 PM
04/17/10 10:47 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
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Quote:
Pat,
Here are a couple of thoughts...in the video the vacuum gauge was at 18 inches, not 22. If the car runs with the IMS closed, then it is getting fuel from somewhere other than the primaries. This could be via a carb leak (bowls not tight), or the secondaries are open too much. Cover the primaries with a rag to block them, and see if the motor still runs. Then, try the same on the secondaries.
Thanks Dave. I'll give that a shot tomorrow.
Quote:
What sort of cam and carb does the the engine have? I assume it is a hydraulic cam? The vacuum is fluctuating some, but not a huge amount.
Hydraulic RV cam and 1406 Edelbrock carb. Not a "hot" setup by a long shot. Its in my 1980 ramcharger.
Quote:
Do the engine run more smoothly at 1500? 2000?
Regards,
Dave
Engine does run fine at higher rpms. It just doesn't like sitting still at idle. I suppose I really should learn how to properly time an engine from start to finish.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672777
04/18/10 06:40 PM
04/18/10 06:40 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 598
NC, USA
davenc
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 598
NC, USA
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Pat,
With respect to timing, there are three things to consider on a street vehicle, initial, total mechanical, and total with vacuum. For starting, leave the vacuum disconnected from the distributor, and the vacuum hose plugged.
The amount of initial the engine will need will depend on several factors, including the size of the bore and the amount of overlap in the cam between intake and exhaust valve timing. With a stock 440 and a RV cam, the motor should not need a huge amount of initial, and if you have a stock distributor too much initial will lead to too much total mechanical advance at higher rpm.
How does the motor run with the initial timing set to 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC)? I would suggest starting somewhere in the 10-12 degree BTDC range, and see if you can get the carb adjusted to the point where you think the idle is good.
To check the total timing, you will need a dial timing light. I know you stated you don't have one right now, and given that, you need to stay conservative on the initial to not end up with too much total. Factory distributor may have 26-28 degrees in it (don't remember the specifics), and a BB with iron head will likely run best with 36-38 degrees total.
Regards,
Dave
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: davenc]
#672778
04/18/10 07:07 PM
04/18/10 07:07 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
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Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
Pat,
With respect to timing, there are three things to consider on a street vehicle, initial, total mechanical, and total with vacuum. For starting, leave the vacuum disconnected from the distributor, and the vacuum hose plugged.
The amount of initial the engine will need will depend on several factors, including the size of the bore and the amount of overlap in the cam between intake and exhaust valve timing. With a stock 440 and a RV cam, the motor should not need a huge amount of initial, and if you have a stock distributor too much initial will lead to too much total mechanical advance at higher rpm.
How does the motor run with the initial timing set to 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC)? I would suggest starting somewhere in the 10-12 degree BTDC range, and see if you can get the carb adjusted to the point where you think the idle is good.
To check the total timing, you will need a dial timing light. I know you stated you don't have one right now, and given that, you need to stay conservative on the initial to not end up with too much total. Factory distributor may have 26-28 degrees in it (don't remember the specifics), and a BB with iron head will likely run best with 36-38 degrees total.
Regards,
Dave
Thanks again Dave 
I'm away from the truck right now (husbandly duties of hanging useless crap on my pristine, hole-free walls), but I'm almost positive if I were to run the truck at 10* btdc it would stall. When I shine the light down there as it is, idling like you see in the video, it's probably at around 16*. Could that be very wrong?
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672780
04/18/10 08:39 PM
04/18/10 08:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,907
S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
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I Live Here
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Judging from the way it comes down to idle quickly when you goose the throttle (in the open header video), I don't think there's a vacuum leak.
However you're there and I'm not, and it's always good to satisfy or deny any feeling it might have a leak....
so I recommend testing for vacuum leaks with water instead of carb cleaner so you don't eat up your new paint. A spray bottle with a "stream" adjustment on it works well. Any leak hit with water and sucked in will slow the idle down a bunch.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672782
04/18/10 10:37 PM
04/18/10 10:37 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 598
NC, USA
davenc
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2005
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NC, USA
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Pat,
Yes that vacuum reading is lower than it should be for a stock-ish BB. It makes sense to eliminate the simpler stuff first. Zippy's method of finding a leak is better than what I suggested, and you should try and cross leaks off as a possible cause. Remember to spray anywhere that could suck air...any hose (entire length) that is connected to the carb, the carb to manifold gasket/sealing, and the manifold to cylinder head gasket/sealing.
When you get a chance, let us know about the cam installation. There was just another thread today in this forum about cam socket timing marks, and how easy it is to get it wrong the first time you install a cam, particularly if not degreeing it in.
Also, did you pull any plugs to see if there are any abnormal signs (oil, sooty, etc)?
Regards,
Dave
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: davenc]
#672783
04/19/10 12:38 AM
04/19/10 12:38 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
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Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
Pat,
Yes that vacuum reading is lower than it should be for a stock-ish BB. It makes sense to eliminate the simpler stuff first. Zippy's method of finding a leak is better than what I suggested, and you should try and cross leaks off as a possible cause. Remember to spray anywhere that could suck air...any hose (entire length) that is connected to the carb, the carb to manifold gasket/sealing, and the manifold to cylinder head gasket/sealing.
When you get a chance, let us know about the cam installation. There was just another thread today in this forum about cam socket timing marks, and how easy it is to get it wrong the first time you install a cam, particularly if not degreeing it in.
Also, did you pull any plugs to see if there are any abnormal signs (oil, sooty, etc)?
Regards,
Dave
I've also heard of using propane to check for vacuum leaks. Is that the "drier" method?
It would make sense to have a higher vacuum reading like I was getting with 16*+ of initial advance.
The cam, chain, and crank were all left alone during my rebuild. Their relationship with one another was not touched, and the engine ran perfectly fine. The only thing that I did move was the distributor drive gear to prime the oil pump. I suppose I could have dropped it back in out of orientation. I just don't understand the sporadically unsteady idle. Could me having the distributor drive gear installed on the wrong tooth cause that?
I guess my next step is going back to basics. Find TDC on compression of number 1, make sure rotor is pointing at number one wire at that point. Go from there?
Finding a vacuum leak with those other methods is a little difficult, especially because the idle climbs 100+ rpm sporadically on it's own, just while it's sitting there....
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Joshs68]
#672785
04/19/10 01:24 PM
04/19/10 01:24 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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super gas
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super gas
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A couple of things that I found out this morning:
While checking the distributor diaphragm (it does hold vacuum), I noticed the reluctor had an arrow on it, indicating it's direction of rotation. Mine is obviously for a small block, as it's arrow indicates a clockwise rotation. How much, if any, does this matter?
I pulled the plugs. Not pretty. #1's ground strap was all but touching the electrode and is pretty much a solid black color. The others appear a bit better, with no coloring on the ground strap or electrode until about half way down the ground strap.
I also decided, while the plugs were out, to do a quick dry compression test. Numbers don't look good. I only got through cylinders 1 (125psi), 3 (112psi), and 5 (115psi).
I'm going to take a couple shots of the spark plugs and post them in a bit.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672786
04/19/10 01:29 PM
04/19/10 01:29 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,098
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,098
Valencia, España
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Quote:
A couple of things that I found out this morning:
While checking the distributor diaphragm (it does hold vacuum), I noticed the reluctor had an arrow on it, indicating it's direction of rotation. Mine is obviously for a small block, as it's arrow indicates a clockwise rotation. How much, if any, does this matter?
its in relation with PHASING
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/rotorphasing.php
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles...tor_phasing.pdf
BB are CCW and use a diff notch for the location pin. Thats for the diff movement of the vaccum/pickup plate too.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: NachoRT74]
#672787
04/19/10 01:34 PM
04/19/10 01:34 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
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Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
Quote:
A couple of things that I found out this morning:
While checking the distributor diaphragm (it does hold vacuum), I noticed the reluctor had an arrow on it, indicating it's direction of rotation. Mine is obviously for a small block, as it's arrow indicates a clockwise rotation. How much, if any, does this matter?
its in relation with PHASING
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/rotorphasing.php
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles...tor_phasing.pdf
BB are CCW and use a diff notch for the location pin. Thats for the diff movement of the vaccum/pickup plate too.
So then the answer is that, yes, it does make a difference?
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672788
04/19/10 02:18 PM
04/19/10 02:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,907
S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
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I Live Here
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S.E. Michigan
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The reluctors have two roll pin slots, one with a CW arrow next to it and one with no arrow. For a big block, the roll pin should be installed in the slot that does not have an arrow near it.
15" of vacuum at a "normal" advance, and noticeably more manifold vacuum when the advance is cranked up is quite normal, and is what I'd expect for a mild cam in a low compression 440.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: ZIPPY]
#672789
04/19/10 02:51 PM
04/19/10 02:51 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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Quote:
The reluctors have two roll pin slots, one with a CW arrow next to it and one with no arrow. For a big block, the roll pin should be installed in the slot that does not have an arrow near it.
15" of vacuum at a "normal" advance, and noticeably more manifold vacuum when the advance is cranked up is quite normal, and is what I'd expect for a mild cam in a low compression 440.
Thanks Zippy
So I could just pull the roll pin out and put it in the other slot for the side that has no arrow, correct?
Here are a couple shots of the plugs. #1 looks like something may have impacted it, sending the ground strap close to the electrode. When is it a safe assumption that plugs cannot simply be cleaned up with a small wire brush and actually need to be replaced. These are new, with zero miles and about 2 hours total of operation on them.
Cylinder #1:
Cylinder #5:
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672791
04/19/10 03:44 PM
04/19/10 03:44 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 701
Northern California
lilcuda
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 701
Northern California
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Quote:
The cam, chain, and crank were all left alone during my rebuild. Their relationship with one another was not touched, and the engine ran perfectly fine. The only thing that I did move was the distributor drive gear to prime the oil pump. I suppose I could have dropped it back in out of orientation. I just don't understand the sporadically unsteady idle. Could me having the distributor drive gear installed on the wrong tooth cause that?
You said that the engine was rebuilt, but now you're saying that the cam, crank & timing chain were left alone. Did you just do a re-ring? Big difference between a rebuild and a re-ring. What was done to the heads?
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: lilcuda]
#672793
04/19/10 04:00 PM
04/19/10 04:00 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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super gas
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Quote:
Quote:
The cam, chain, and crank were all left alone during my rebuild. Their relationship with one another was not touched, and the engine ran perfectly fine. The only thing that I did move was the distributor drive gear to prime the oil pump. I suppose I could have dropped it back in out of orientation. I just don't understand the sporadically unsteady idle. Could me having the distributor drive gear installed on the wrong tooth cause that?
You said that the engine was rebuilt, but now you're saying that the cam, crank & timing chain were left alone. Did you just do a re-ring? Big difference between a rebuild and a re-ring. What was done to the heads?
Apologies. Bought the engine from a seller who claimed the engine was rebuilt roughly 100 miles prior to me purchasing it. I tore it down to give myself a little piece of mind. Took it down to a short block and was happy with what I saw, so I buttoned the heads back onto it, which brings us to today. So, in essence, it may have been a re-ring or a full rebuild. I'll never know. Pistons aren't stock size, engine is .030 over, and bores look freshly honed.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672794
04/19/10 07:28 PM
04/19/10 07:28 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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super gas
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The frustration continues:
Reinstalled spark plugs, rewired plug wires, restarted engine. Still running the same.
Now there is a sound that sounds like squeeking, and yes, it's coming from inside the carb air hat. WTH.
Also, while it was running the same as always, noticed number 5's plug wire was off the plug and just sitting there. A blessing, I figured. When I plugged it back in, making sure it had positive contact, there was absolutely NO change in how the engine ran.
I'm beginning to get a little frustrated, which isn't how I wanted this to go.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672795
04/19/10 09:40 PM
04/19/10 09:40 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,221
Branson, Mo.
joedust451
super gas
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super gas
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Branson, Mo.
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Quote:
The frustration continues:
Reinstalled spark plugs, rewired plug wires, restarted engine. Still running the same.
Now there is a sound that sounds like squeeking, and yes, it's coming from inside the carb air hat. WTH.
Also, while it was running the same as always, noticed number 5's plug wire was off the plug and just sitting there. A blessing, I figured. When I plugged it back in, making sure it had positive contact, there was absolutely NO change in how the engine ran.
I'm beginning to get a little frustrated, which isn't how I wanted this to go.
Make sure the fireing order is currect.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: joedust451]
#672796
04/19/10 09:47 PM
04/19/10 09:47 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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Quote:
Quote:
The frustration continues:
Reinstalled spark plugs, rewired plug wires, restarted engine. Still running the same.
Now there is a sound that sounds like squeeking, and yes, it's coming from inside the carb air hat. WTH.
Also, while it was running the same as always, noticed number 5's plug wire was off the plug and just sitting there. A blessing, I figured. When I plugged it back in, making sure it had positive contact, there was absolutely NO change in how the engine ran.
I'm beginning to get a little frustrated, which isn't how I wanted this to go.
Make sure the fireing order is currect.
Wish it were that easy. Double and triple checked...
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672797
04/20/10 12:53 PM
04/20/10 12:53 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 598
NC, USA
davenc
mopar
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mopar
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Pat,
Concentrate on the known issue. Something is not right on cyliner#1.
Are you certain the plug was correctly gapped when it was installed? If so, then either the piston, or something which fell into the intake valve made contact with it, both which are bad news.
You may want to regap the plug, pull all 7 other plugs out, put regapped plug back into number 1, and turn the motor over by hand for two entire revolutions. Then pull the plug back out and check the gap.
I am doubtful the piston could be hitting it, but best to rule it out.
Regards,
Dave
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Dusted_Ya]
#672800
04/20/10 04:30 PM
04/20/10 04:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum
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master
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Hamilton, Ontario Canada
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No change in the run quality with a Holley usually means a blown power valve feeding raw fuel to the engine. I did see you have an Edelbrock but I just thought I'd throw that out there.
Does that #5 which does not contribute to the engine running. Is it feed from the same side of the carb that is unresponsive, follow the dual plane runner.
69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: ireland383]
#672802
04/20/10 06:05 PM
04/20/10 06:05 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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super gas
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Update: Decided to window my current distributor cap to make absolutely positive something funny wasn't going on with the timing. Balancer line lined up with 0* mark on timing tab, on compression stroke of cylinder #1, here's what I see:  You may or may not notice the small white deposits on the inner terminals for the cap. I got to looking at them and decided I didn't like what I saw. Every time I've replaced a cap, the internal contacts were shinny and smooth. These were not shiny, and very porous. After I did an ohm test on all 8 spark plug's wires (all came back between .78k and 1.52k - standard for Taylor 8mm Spiro pro wires), I decided to test conductivity between the inner contacts and outter contacts on my original cap. Disgusting. Some had marginal resistance, about 4 of them I had to grind my meter probe into the inner contact just to see any conductivity there. Ran to the parts store around the corner, bought new cap and rotor, measured those. Just barely touching them, they're all right around .01 ohm. Replaced, re-timed, and here is the result: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLudJkx07FEWas able to adjust the IMS screws and notice an idle difference. Finished that up. My only concern now is the squeeking noise that is very apparent when the camera is around the carb. It gets faster as I rev the engine, and then becomes slow when I'm away from it. Frighteningly enough, it sounds like it's coming from inside the carb. Looked around everywhere to see if I could find what might be causing that noise. Nothing. Guess I'll have to check harder. Hopefully it's nothing internally.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: Pat_Whalen]
#672803
04/20/10 06:12 PM
04/20/10 06:12 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
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I Live Here
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Florida
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Pat,gotta love those spacers on the alt pivot bolt  are the rocker oiling good? not going dry are they? can you hear it in the vid?
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672804
04/20/10 06:19 PM
04/20/10 06:19 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
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super gas
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super gas
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Quote:
Pat,gotta love those spacers on the alt pivot bolt
Shhh! I'm waiting for my spacers from Bouchillon.
Quote:
are the rocker oiling good?
not going dry are they?
can you hear it in the vid?
No idea. Haven't pulled the covers to find out. I now I've got about 50psi of oil pressure when warm. Yes, you can hear the squeek in the video as I rev it. It's very high pitched, and it may even sound like something coming from your computer, but I assure you, it's definitely coming from my engine.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672805
04/20/10 06:21 PM
04/20/10 06:21 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
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I Live Here
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yea i hear the sqeeking may check the wp and the dist shaft maybe yank the belts of to rule that stuff out,shouldnt hurt to run it enuff to see if thats it dont know what would be in the carb to do that.sure its not a whistel or vac leak  are you running points? sure fires up fast might do new plugs as those could be fuel fould from not fireing for a bit with the gap closed what heads and do you have the right plugs? mine are the 5/8 peanut plugs on the 452 heads 
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672806
04/20/10 06:24 PM
04/20/10 06:24 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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just rubbing you on the spacers...we wont talk about some of mine  every thing was looking good good vac reading and steady I have not seen a dwel meter like that in a while,I will have to dig out my engine anylizer and clean off the dust since I am running points in my 440 
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672807
04/20/10 06:25 PM
04/20/10 06:25 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
yea i hear the sqeeking
may check the wp and the dist shaft
maybe yank the belts of to rule that stuff out,shouldnt hurt to run it enuff to see if thats it
Was my next course of action to remove the belt. Only thing getting powered right now is the alt, so it won't hurt it none. Just doesn't sound like it's coming from that area, although at this point, I'd love for it to be the waterpump.
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dont know what would be in the carb to do that.sure its not a whistel or vac leak
No whistle. Definitely high pitched metal on metal rubbing.
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are you running points?
Negative
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sure fires up fast
New mini-starter, low compression, and a fully charged battery
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might do new plugs as those could be fuel fould from not fireing for a bit with the gap closed
Couldn't hurt. I'll pick some up next time I'm at the parts store.
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what heads and do you have the right plugs?
mine are the 5/8 peanut plugs on the 452 heads
Mine are the motorhome 452's that take the autolight 23's, the tapered seat instead of the crush washer.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672808
04/20/10 06:26 PM
04/20/10 06:26 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
just rubbing you on the spacers...we wont talk about some of mine
every thing was looking good
good vac reading and steady
I have not seen a dwel meter like that in a while,I will have to dig out my engine anylizer and clean off the dust since I am running points in my 440
I had heard they're integral to fine tuning, so I set out to look for one. Believe it or not, Sears had three of them. They were locked onto the rod they were hanging from at the store and I asked an old timer if I could get one. He commented on the fact that those same three had been there since the store opened 
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672809
04/20/10 06:29 PM
04/20/10 06:29 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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maybe some one can chime in isnt the dwell supposed to be around 30*???? been awhile since I used one but seems thats what I used to set mine at but that was with points yep autolight 23 in mine also I know when I first fired mine off it ran bad till I got new plugs it had burnt 2 wires off when in the MH and had been running that way for a while from the looks of them smoothed right out with new ones how old are those? same ones before the rebuild? 
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 04/20/10 06:33 PM.
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Re: Engine tuning questions - video included....
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#672810
04/20/10 06:33 PM
04/20/10 06:33 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
OP
super gas
|
OP
super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
|
Quote:
maybe some one can chime in
isnt the dwell supposed to be around 30*????
been awhile since I used one but seems thats what I used to set mine at
No idea. Wasn't checking dwell, was checking RPM. There is a switch on the left side there to change it to a dwell meter
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hm,didnt you say early in the thread that the engine keeps running with the(5minute space where im trying to remember what those 2/4 carb screws are called)aaaarrrgh,those 2 small screws at the side of carb.when they are screwed in to light bottom,the engine should stumble and stop.so,check your fuel inlet valve and power valve maybe.also the cranking compression are almost down to the factory recomended limits,but not yet so i bet its something simple. 
