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Umm, why the heck would you want to go to all that work? That is like trying to get a dog and a cat to mate.

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Well Ive read on here that guys have done the swap.....so the frame can be tied....due to the 73up isolator K member.

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you can replace with solid aluminium blocks, both on K member and T bars member. They are available.

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Umm, why the heck would you want to go to all that work? That is like trying to get a dog and a cat to mate.

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Well Ive read on here that guys have done the swap.....so the frame can be tied....due to the 73up isolator K member.

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you can replace with solid aluminium blocks, both on K member and T bars member. They are available.

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So if you use the solid blocks on T bar member can you then tie the frame?

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you can replace with solid aluminium blocks, both on K member and T bars member. They are available.

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So if you use the solid blocks on T bar member can you then tie the frame?

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Easiest way is to use the aluminum K member bushings instead of the stock rubber ones for the main K member. Then remove the isolated torsion bar crossmember and remove the 1973+ torsion bars. Install 72 and earlier B body torsion bars. Cut the torsion bar sockets out of your isolated t-bar crossmember and weld them into your stock(non-isolated) torsion bar crossmember.

Hard to explain without a pic, but for 1972 and earlier, the torsion bar crossmember the piece of framing welded to the floors. Very straightforward. For 1973 they installed the bolt-on isolated torsion bar crossmember behind the original t-bar crossmember, and used longer t-bars so the t-bars would go through the original torsion bar crossmember and reach the isolated t-bar crossmember. They simply relocated the hex sockets back a few inches to accomplish this. Thankfully the factory took the easy way out when doing this, so it's not complicated to undo. You put in the 72 and earlier style torsion bars with the front end up in the air and the torsion bar adjusters fully loosened. Then you slip the hex sockets(that you cut out of the isolated t-bar crossmember) into the holes in the original(for 72 and prior) torsion bar crossmember and tack them into place whereever they are. Remove the torsion bars, fully weld the hex sockets in, reinstall torsion bars and reset your adjusters and now you're done. Now with that isolated t-bar crossmember removed from the car and having the torsion bars setup just like on any other 72 and prior B body, you can go ahead and install your frame connectors.

Or you can weld a short piece of square tube on each side to connect the isolated t-bar crossmember to the original t-bar crossmember, and have your frame connectors mate up with the back of the isolated t-bar crossmember. Make sure you install the aluminum bushings before doing this because now the isolated t-bar crossmember is no longer removable. This presents an issue because now to do transmissions swaps you have to lift the motor and hump the trans over the isolated t-bar crossmember(it goes under the trans). It's a pain but doable. I prefer just to eliminate the isolated t-bar and do it 1972- style.

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Easiest way is to use the aluminum K member bushings instead of the stock rubber ones for the main K member. Then remove the isolated torsion bar crossmember and remove the 1973+ torsion bars. Install 72 and earlier B body torsion bars. Cut the torsion bar sockets out of your isolated t-bar crossmember and weld them into your stock(non-isolated) torsion bar crossmember.

Hard to explain without a pic, but for 1972 and earlier, the torsion bar crossmember the piece of framing welded to the floors. Very straightforward. For 1973 they installed the bolt-on isolated torsion bar crossmember behind the original t-bar crossmember, and used longer t-bars so the t-bars would go through the original torsion bar crossmember and reach the isolated t-bar crossmember. They simply relocated the hex sockets back a few inches to accomplish this. Thankfully the factory took the easy way out when doing this, so it's not complicated to undo. You put in the 72 and earlier style torsion bars with the front end up in the air and the torsion bar adjusters fully loosened. Then you slip the hex sockets(that you cut out of the isolated t-bar crossmember) into the holes in the original(for 72 and prior) torsion bar crossmember and tack them into place whereever they are. Remove the torsion bars, fully weld the hex sockets in, reinstall torsion bars and reset your adjusters and now you're done. Now with that isolated t-bar crossmember removed from the car and having the torsion bars setup just like on any other 72 and prior B body, you can go ahead and install your frame connectors.

Or you can weld a short piece of square tube on each side to connect the isolated t-bar crossmember to the original t-bar crossmember, and have your frame connectors mate up with the back of the isolated t-bar crossmember. Make sure you install the aluminum bushings before doing this because now the isolated t-bar crossmember is no longer removable. This presents an issue because now to do transmissions swaps you have to lift the motor and hump the trans over the isolated t-bar crossmember(it goes under the trans). It's a pain but doable. I prefer just to eliminate the isolated t-bar and do it 1972- style.

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Thanks for the info!!! I was confused about the K-frame part, but I knew Id read about the pre 72 t-bar swap.

If you dont mind I'll probably PM you some more questions down the road.