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Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658456
04/02/10 11:57 PM
04/02/10 11:57 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,393
St. Charles, MO
wingman
Uncreative Title
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Uncreative Title
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,393
St. Charles, MO
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Quote:
thank-you, any chance it might be the starter relay on the firewall?
If you want to rule out the relay, you can jumper across the two terminals on the starter itself with a wire or screwdriver, and see if your symptoms improve.
This test is similar to jumping across at the starter relay on the firewall, but even more direct. If you have bad wire connections anywhere, or bad wiring, this will show you.
I had a burnt brown wire once--the starter would crank strong when jumpered at the starter, but crank weakly or just click when jumpered at the relay.
1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee 383 A4
1970 Plymouth Road Runner 440 FC7 (sold)
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Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: rss]
#658458
04/03/10 09:17 AM
04/03/10 09:17 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
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I'm taking the weekend off and we'll tackle the problem next week, thanks for all the comments and we will check the timing along with all the other suggestion.
Semper Fi
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Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: CR8CRSHR]
#658460
04/03/10 08:53 PM
04/03/10 08:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
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How about Vapor lock...if you are boiling the fuel over because the heat of the engine rises due to insufficient cooling when the engine is off, the fuel will turn into vapor inside your fuel line. When your engine cools down enough the fuel becomes a liquid state again, ready to fire up again.
Try a Phenolic spacer
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: Pyper70]
#658461
04/04/10 02:34 AM
04/04/10 02:34 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 902
Seattle, WA
rss
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 902
Seattle, WA
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Quote:
How about Vapor lock...if you are boiling the fuel over because the heat of the engine rises due to insufficient cooling when the engine is off, the fuel will turn into vapor inside your fuel line. When your engine cools down enough the fuel becomes a liquid state again, ready to fire up again.
Try a Phenolic spacer
Original poster stated car turned over slowly (like dead battery) when hot. That would not result from a hot fuel/vapor lock type of issue.
My money is on the starter.
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Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: 52savoy]
#658465
04/08/10 04:39 PM
04/08/10 04:39 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 290
Loveland Colorado
jake71
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 290
Loveland Colorado
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Quote:
CLAMP ON AMP PROBE
I've used them on 240-440 phase AC motors and starter relays but never used one on 12v DC.
But if you have a probe, clamp it over the battery to starter cable and watch it as the engine heats up. If the AMP reading changes as the motor heats up, it's either the starter or cable or both.
Clamp on style amp probes only work on alternating current. 
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605...00001&aff=Y
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Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658467
04/10/10 04:55 PM
04/10/10 04:55 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 521
Port Hope, Ontario
TheMoparJunky
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 521
Port Hope, Ontario
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If your voltage regulator ever becomes a problem, check the temp on it. It is just a resistor. They will get hot but not paint melting hot, usually you can check the ohms across it(I think-there is a test). But I have overhauled 1 starter 3 times and each time trued the commutator, cleaned the brushes and checked it for normal voltage drops but it still would eat it up after being hot. Armatures and stators will go bad. The windings might short internally and never be noticeable from the outside. And it's cheaper to get a new armature than spending the money to rewind it. Heat shields work, larger positive cables and ground cables(I've used welding cables-they seem to work fine). Make sure you have a good ground and your solenoid is good across the poles, (for 4 speeds-proper clutch pedal play). It is just a math problem-take out the variables.
Compression should never be an issue-11:1 motors start up fine with just a high amp battery.
But more vacuum will create more work for the rotating assy.-i.e.-turning with the throttle closed is harder than with it wide open-it's gotta suck harder through a smaller orifice.
The Mopar Junky
Back off the Mopar bandwagon-
Wannabe Millwright
Enjoying the fat lazy unemployed life
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