383 won't start when hot
#658435
04/01/10 08:30 PM
04/01/10 08:30 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
Hi, I'm looking for possible solutions: 67 coronet 383 2bl, auto, point distrbutor, car runs great, accelerates good and does not ping or run on after being shut off. factory heat guage within spec and does not boil over when shut off. starts great when cold but barley turnes over after driving 25 miles.When I say barley turnes over I mean perhaps 1/2 a crank and the battery sounds dead, yes it has started, but somethings not kosher. any comments will be appreciated....thanks...ps....I just went out after letting it cool down (45 minutes) and the car starts great
Last edited by GOLDMYN; 04/01/10 08:34 PM.
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658436
04/01/10 08:43 PM
04/01/10 08:43 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
heat soak in the starter. battery internal cell going bad. cables/terminals need cleaning. eng friction sky high when hot. In order: easy to sub in a known good batt then clean (all large)cables from post to post then check turning torque w 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar when hot then another starter
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: RapidRobert]
#658437
04/01/10 09:17 PM
04/01/10 09:17 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
Thanks, but why would the car start great after 45 minutes of cool down if 1. bad connections, 2. battery cell bad? and I don't understand what the 1 1/8 socket would do? . what would cause sky high friction?
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: stumpy]
#658439
04/01/10 10:03 PM
04/01/10 10:03 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
Thanks, Suppose the engine DOES turn over harder when hot. What would be the cause?. This motor has been rebuilt.
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: Dodgem]
#658441
04/01/10 10:56 PM
04/01/10 10:56 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
I have no idea what was done to this engine, it was rebuilt in 1991 and has been driven appr 10K miles and i would have thought any major problems would have been taken care of.
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658444
04/02/10 01:17 AM
04/02/10 01:17 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,255 State of Fascism
52savoy
master
|
master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,255
State of Fascism
|
CLAMP ON AMP PROBE I've used them on 240-440 phase AC motors and starter relays but never used one on 12v DC. But if you have a probe, clamp it over the battery to starter cable and watch it as the engine heats up. If the AMP reading changes as the motor heats up, it's either the starter or cable or both. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605...00001&aff=Y
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: JonC]
#658448
04/02/10 07:36 AM
04/02/10 07:36 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
I went back over the receipts I got with the car and there is a pattern, They replaced 4 starters, over the course of 10 years, it does show that the problem existed for awhile.As far as bad voltage regulator, the battery is charging because when it cools down it cranks and starts fine. 2. wrong vacumn advance hook up?, its a 2bl carb, can only hook up to one port? any more thoughts?..thanks again
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658453
04/02/10 12:54 PM
04/02/10 12:54 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
|
Quote:
As far as bad voltage regulator, the battery is charging because when it cools down it cranks and starts fine.
I'm sorry but that's exactly what mine did when the v-reg crapped out. Would fire up perfect when cold, I drove it to an empty parking lot to do some WOT launches to dial in the carb a bit. Did that for a while and turned it off. Fired it up a minute later and it cranked over slow. Some more launches and I turned it off and tried to fire it up again 1 minute later. Got nothing. Rur... click. Let it cool down 30 minutes and it fired back up again just fine. Did the same thing after taking it for a long drive around town. Go cruising around for a half hour, come home, stop in the driveway, key off and it wouldn't crank over. Let it cool 1/2 hour come back outside and it cranked over perfect.
Changed the voltage reg and problem gone. Not saying this is your problem, but I highly suggest bringing along a spare charged battery and a set of booster cables just to verify this to not be a problem. Takes more juice to turn over a hot motor than a cold one, so it's possible your battery is only charging marginally like mine was.
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#658454
04/02/10 01:02 PM
04/02/10 01:02 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
thank-you, any chance it might be the starter relay on the firewall?
Last edited by GOLDMYN; 04/02/10 01:06 PM.
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658456
04/02/10 11:57 PM
04/02/10 11:57 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,393 St. Charles, MO
wingman
Uncreative Title
|
Uncreative Title
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,393
St. Charles, MO
|
Quote:
thank-you, any chance it might be the starter relay on the firewall?
If you want to rule out the relay, you can jumper across the two terminals on the starter itself with a wire or screwdriver, and see if your symptoms improve.
This test is similar to jumping across at the starter relay on the firewall, but even more direct. If you have bad wire connections anywhere, or bad wiring, this will show you.
I had a burnt brown wire once--the starter would crank strong when jumpered at the starter, but crank weakly or just click when jumpered at the relay.
1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee 383 A4 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 440 FC7 (sold)
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: rss]
#658458
04/03/10 09:17 AM
04/03/10 09:17 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960 Kenosha, Wi
GOLDMYN
OP
top fuel
|
OP
top fuel
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,960
Kenosha, Wi
|
I'm taking the weekend off and we'll tackle the problem next week, thanks for all the comments and we will check the timing along with all the other suggestion.
Semper Fi
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: CR8CRSHR]
#658460
04/03/10 08:53 PM
04/03/10 08:53 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,907
Athens, Greece
|
How about Vapor lock...if you are boiling the fuel over because the heat of the engine rises due to insufficient cooling when the engine is off, the fuel will turn into vapor inside your fuel line. When your engine cools down enough the fuel becomes a liquid state again, ready to fire up again.
Try a Phenolic spacer
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: Pyper70]
#658461
04/04/10 02:34 AM
04/04/10 02:34 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 902 Seattle, WA
rss
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 902
Seattle, WA
|
Quote:
How about Vapor lock...if you are boiling the fuel over because the heat of the engine rises due to insufficient cooling when the engine is off, the fuel will turn into vapor inside your fuel line. When your engine cools down enough the fuel becomes a liquid state again, ready to fire up again.
Try a Phenolic spacer
Original poster stated car turned over slowly (like dead battery) when hot. That would not result from a hot fuel/vapor lock type of issue.
My money is on the starter.
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: 52savoy]
#658465
04/08/10 04:39 PM
04/08/10 04:39 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 290 Loveland Colorado
jake71
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 290
Loveland Colorado
|
Quote:
CLAMP ON AMP PROBE I've used them on 240-440 phase AC motors and starter relays but never used one on 12v DC. But if you have a probe, clamp it over the battery to starter cable and watch it as the engine heats up. If the AMP reading changes as the motor heats up, it's either the starter or cable or both. Clamp on style amp probes only work on alternating current.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605...00001&aff=Y
|
|
|
Re: 383 won't start when hot
[Re: GOLDMYN]
#658467
04/10/10 04:55 PM
04/10/10 04:55 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 521 Port Hope, Ontario
TheMoparJunky
mopar addict
|
mopar addict
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 521
Port Hope, Ontario
|
If your voltage regulator ever becomes a problem, check the temp on it. It is just a resistor. They will get hot but not paint melting hot, usually you can check the ohms across it(I think-there is a test). But I have overhauled 1 starter 3 times and each time trued the commutator, cleaned the brushes and checked it for normal voltage drops but it still would eat it up after being hot. Armatures and stators will go bad. The windings might short internally and never be noticeable from the outside. And it's cheaper to get a new armature than spending the money to rewind it. Heat shields work, larger positive cables and ground cables(I've used welding cables-they seem to work fine). Make sure you have a good ground and your solenoid is good across the poles, (for 4 speeds-proper clutch pedal play). It is just a math problem-take out the variables.
Compression should never be an issue-11:1 motors start up fine with just a high amp battery.
But more vacuum will create more work for the rotating assy.-i.e.-turning with the throttle closed is harder than with it wide open-it's gotta suck harder through a smaller orifice.
The Mopar Junky
Back off the Mopar bandwagon-
Wannabe Millwright
Enjoying the fat lazy unemployed life
|
|
|
|
|