drove my van to work and when i went to start it again it wouldn't start. the mechanics had it three days, finally thought it was the crank sensor. i went picked it up drove it for a couple miles and it died all of the sudden. this happened before, it wouldn't start then i waited till the next day and it started right up and was fine for months. it's a 360 if that matters. does anyone have any ideas? this is my work van and i haven't had it for 5 days. thanks

E coil goes bad often on those. Mine checked fine with a spark tester but would not fire the cylinders.

i assume if they where not complete morons they woulda properly checked the ignition & fuel pump.

Yes a coil can fail when hot. Drive it to get it hot and have a helper and a can of either with you. When it dies check for spark at the plug wires if that's not it then spray a little either in the air intake during cranking. Remebr that this will only help narrow the problem down to ignition and fuel systems. It does not mean that the coil or fuel pump are bad more testing should be performed. Intermitant problems are the worst. Crank (or cam)sensors can cause you fits like this in certain models

intermittent problems are tough. Another issue is that those really don't have a couple of known issues. This is going to be a 'pin it down when it happens' deal.
I would check grounds and connections, but it sounds like something is failing open occasionally. You can throw parts at it, or try testing WHEN it's doing it, but otherwise, you are just going to spend time staring at it when it's working like they did. Frustrating, but that's the nature of the beast.

just talked to the mechanic. he thinks its the computer or the ignition switch. he sez there is no spark or fuel and no power to the injectors.

Key word is he "thinks". They did not fix it so he does not know... I would not put much stock in him at this point.
What sends the signal to the computer to fire the coil and or pulse the injectors? I think you should have a sensor mounted at the transmission mounting flange. If the signal is lost i would expect a code. The computer recieves reference signals and merely interpets the info. No codes stored either? Check pins and grounds wiggle connectors, check grounds as previously stated.
Recently had a GMC that was not injecting intermitantly. A bad temp sensor was the cause. Drive it with a scanner hooked up and monitor refernce signals

ASD relay or trigger will do that too.

And he stated he thought it was the computer or the ignition switch. Did you loose all power when it died? I assume you attempted to crank it again when it died, did it have power?
If it cuts off/dies cleanly as if you shut it down I would suspect ignition. If it sputters and dies I would think fuel.

yes i was able to crank it. it only died once when it was actually running and it just all of the sudden quit. thanks for this help!

my buddy just called one of his buddies who is an old chrysler tech and he said it is probably the asd relay too. so we will see tomorrow

i just drove over to the mechanics. since the van was outside i swapped the asd relay with the a/c relay and still no start.

any other ideas.

Check for power to all these things. Fuses and fusible links will do that as well. Sounds to me like something may have burnt...

First thing just listen to hear the fuel pump humming when you turn the key in in the first few seconds when it fails to start (might want to actually have a helper at the tank) if no sound then try swapping the fuel pump relay around to see if that gets it. Then

#1 Good battery voltage and good ground and connections at battery etc?
#2 No stored codes
#3 Is there spark when it won't' start?
If not then you need to determine why, pick up in distributor bad? Do the 2002's run a standard old disributor if so check reluctor gap it should be .008 and needs to be sat with a brass feeler gauge this seems to keep popping up lateley, or do the 2002's have a haleffect sensor? Now the distributor pickup or ASD as previously mentioned or even the crank sensor (mounted at the transmission mounting flange on the pass side upper portion)could cause this but will also effect the fuel system too. Some symptoms of the poor reluctor gap seem to be the vehicle will cut out or fail to start when hot.
If it has spark then it should start if you spray starting fluid in the air intake during cranking? If so suspect a lack of fuel pressure. regulator or pump going bad?

I am home sick so sorry if I don't make much sense today

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post4419596

Not too likely but maybe your cat convertor is the problemwhen it dies check for glowing exhaust

Having had several dozen 360 vans the biggest culprit period is the ignition coil.They will fail no reason but check the base if the base has any corrosion its bad.

well the mechanic is hell bent on it being the computer now. he ordered one that will be here monday. he said if it ain't the problem they will eat the computer. i will let you guys know.

What has he tested and how?
As said it could be as simple as the coil.
WHEN IT FAILS TO RUN, DOES IT HAVE FUEL OR SPARK?
If you are asking for help here then relpying with what has been tested and tried is the only way to narrow it down. If not no one will be able to assist you. Glad to help, but can't

If I would have gotten that truck in I would slapped a fuel pressure gauge on it and driven it until it failed. Maybe hooked up a Genisys to it and had another tech ride along (we work fleet, and not flat rate)

GOOD LUCK

sorry i am trying to pass on as much info as i can. i don't know anything really about computer controlled fuel injection. i am assuming he is competent and checked all the really basic things.
it DID NOT have fuel, spark or power at the injectors.
the computer they ordered won't be here till tomorrow.
THANKS

Cool good luck and let us know how it goes.

So what happened?
Be carefull some shops might be tempted to put one over on you if they were wrong on a computer purchase. They could then say find a sensor as the cause and swap it... eat the cost on a $50 part (mark up on the computer will cover that anyway) and charge you for the diagnostics check and computer.... Ask for the old computer. Retry it and verify it causes the trouble

High secondary resistence,(bad plug wires or plugs) will cause the secondary voltage to eat away at the primary insulation in the coil. Eventually the high voltage will make its way into the primary circuit and back to the pcm. This will anger the pcm gods and they will shut down the asd relay. The fix is to replace the coil, plugs & wires and maybe the pcm. If your mechanic has a scope, he should be able to see the high voltage spike leaking into the primary circuit.

just got it back today! he said i owe him $212 for the computer and to drive it till wednesday and see how it does, then stop by and pay him. so we will see. i only started it twice since i got it back. i just loaded all my tools back in it so i really hope it's fixed.

should i replace the coil now?