ok so im building a dodge dart and right now i am working the engine
i just got a comp cams camshaft with .474 lift and a pair of 318 closed chambered heads and now am tryin to find some rockers to go with it but am not to sure which to get
iv seen lots on ebay but i read that cheap rockers usally dont deliver the 1.5 or 1.6 ratio it says is this true?

stock

O go with stock. Remember that the rockers have a left and right off set and that the notches on the rocker shaft much go down and forward on the left side and down and to the rear on the right side. Left in to your left and right to your right. This is from one of the Moapr mags:

Thanks for the info
so right now it's lookin like stock
what if I wanted to upgrade to 1.6 rockers
would that be a bad decsion
would I be able to keep stock springs with the higher lift??

Stock springs are pretty wimpy and really don't like much added lift. You would have to measure and see for coil bind but still they are a good choice. Use a spring that the cam or equivalent to what the cam grinder recommends.

i had a .441 lift cam in a 70 318. at higher rpms the valves would float. i was in highschool at the time and didn`t know what was happening. all i knew was that at higher rpms the motor made a funny sound and lost all its power. so definatly use better valve springs with a higher than stock lift cam.

stock springs might coil bind with the .474 lift alone....

I'd use comp #901's with stock retainers and locks.

the #901's will be borderline with 1.6 rockers (makes your .474" lift cam .506").

could also look at hughes #1110 springs. should work with stock retainers, and they have enough lift capacity to handle 1.6 rockers.

Ahhh!! Ok so stock springs should be replaced either way just to be safe
how do you place them is this something I can do or would I have to take it to a machine shop to be done????
those Hughes springs you mentioned would they just slap on with no other modifications and be able to handle the lift???

borrow/rent a valve spring compressor (looks like a giant C clamp) or if the heads are already on then use an on eng valve spring compressor (it has a shaft that replaces a rocker shaft then a lever that slides on it & you pull it toward you to compress each retainer/spring) and use shop air w your compression tester hose or 2-3 feet of 1/4" nylon white rope fed into the cyl to keep the valve from dropping as you R&R each spring/retainer.

Oh ok so all I would need to do is remove the old ones and put the new ones??
No machining or anything has to be done to the heads?

I'm assuming comp 901's are a single w maybe the dampener strip inside (which (a single) eliminates any step issues on the head surface and on the underside of the retainer). If the OD is correct and there is no coil bind issues then yes just R&R

both springs I mentioned are single w/damper and ~1.45" OD, which should drop on. the comps are ~90lbs seat pressure at a ~1.66 IH and like a 1.12" coil bind height with a rate in the 350 lb/in, the hughes are ~135lb seat pressure at a 1.66" IH with a 1.04" coil bind height, and a 345lb/in rate

the comps are $65-70 thru summit, the hughes ones are $90-95 from their website.

Ok I just looked it up and this it the specs on the 901 springs
Single Outer Valve Springs
O.D.: 1.494"
I.D.: 1.080"
Seat load: 101lbs @1.650''
Open load: 242lbs @1.250''
Coil bind: 1.100''
Rate: 353lbs/in
With damper
will this work??
Do they match up to stock dimensions?

Ohhhh ok so since they match up I should be able to put them on easliy right??
No machining or anything just remove and replace??


And thanks for all the help on this

yes, I used the 901's on a 360 and a comp XE262. drop on and go. while you're at it, I'd replace the valve seals....

I just put some 901 springs on a set of stock 1967 318 heads. It wasn't hard. They came with a comp kit that included a timing set, springs, locks, retainers, cam, lifters, and valve seals. Make sure you replace the valve seals while you're in there.

They are definitely easier to do with the head off but whatever way you do it you will probably take as much time with the first two as you do with the next six. Once you have your technique and rhythm figured out it is pretty easy.

The kit came with a lot of new stuff but for a mild rebuild I don't see a problem with re-using everything but the spring (and seals!). Just so you know even the keepers that came matched to the springs by comp don't quite cover the whole top of the spring. So don't freak out if the stock ones don't either.

I have a set of 273 (adjustable) lifters that I have been itching to use for something, but unless I deck the heads or block I will be re-using the stock stamped rockers for simplicity's sake. (don't need to buy cup-top pushrods if I stay stock)

I agree about only thinking about needing roller tips above .5" lift. Especially with the cost of good ones for our motors!

Good luck!

Well The heads are remanufactured and look like the have everything new nothing looks old on them will I still have to replace the seals?? Do they mess up when changing the springs?

the seals will be fine while changing the springs. there is no machiening required. just remove the old spring and put the new one on. i put some 901`s on a set of 318 heads last winter.

Ok good then that's what I'm gonna do
does anyone know if these 1.6 rockers on eBay are any good??
I was thinking of getting some of those but I don't wanna get ripped off with cheap lifters that arnt even as good as the stock ones

Here is the link to some of those rockers

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-318...8#ht_5771wt_951

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-318...f#ht_5030wt_951

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-318...c#ht_5735wt_951

what do yall think about these??