In the past I have asked alot of questions and this board continues to WOW me with everything and how much you guys know. So here we go:

Can someone supply me with the hole patern dimensions or attache a drawing of the A-Body front spring perches? Its a long story I will explaine later.

Thanks
Scot B.

Maybe you could explain a bit more right now.
A body front spring ?
Like coil over conversion ?
I probably couldn't help you even with more information , but with a little less confusion , ya never know.
Edited to add.........it's becoming clearer I think.
I do have a set of 7/8ths offset perches that have the mounting bolts you could use for a template if this would help.
Or I could take some measurements.
This won't tell you where to put the holes on the car.........I could probably measure these on an early A for you , but it may be different for other cars.

I have the holes already in the frame work but I want to fabricate new spring perch's I figured someone would have this info in there pocket on this site. this way I dont have to tear everything appart, I will only have to take it apart once to do the swap and the welding of the axle tube mounts.

The reason for this question is I am tired of paying top dollar for items at Mancini's. every time I look at something there it cost an arm and a leg when I know I can fabricate them for 1/3 the cost. maybe I will make them and sell them online and charge 50 bucks for the whole kit in stead of 230 bucks.

Just seams all the A-Body stuff is outragous in price.

Thanks

So are you looking for a set of spring perches that mount to the axle tube? I have a brand new set I will give you if thats what you are needing

What I did on my Dart. I used 2 sets of stock front hangars. Knocked the bolts out of 1 set. Cut the sides off the other set. Welded the piece with the studs in it to the hangar that had the bolts removed. Just set the offset where you want it. Jim

I'm assuming you mean hangers and not perches?

If so, yes I made my own too, and have the dimensions,if you need them.

Yes Hangers my bad can yo send the dims or pdf the files to me thru PM or at scotnjennifer@comcast.net.

I have an idea how to do this real easy, now did you still but the offset shakels for the back??

B1 I will need the axle perches as well, how can I get them from you??

for clarity..
we are talking rear leaf springs on an a body.
the front mount hardware/spring eye location on the front of the rear springs that mount to the chassis.?
if i recall only one of the studs/bolts (4 mounting studs total)is offset so you dont confuse them side to side..
I recall swapping them from side to side and flipping them over..then just drilling a hole in the chassis for that one offset stud..
this effectively raises the mount hole or lowers the rear ride height at the front spring eye mount..a small amount..
ive also seen guys..just drill out the spring eye bolt up or down ..depending on what direction you want to go.
this by the way moves the I/C fwiw..
cheapst

Abodiesonly1 how did you do that I am guessing you still had to box in the frame. I have that kit I just dont know if I will have time to pull that work off. if i understand your post this is a bolt on?? I would like to see pictures of that

Please advise on how you did that sounds intresting

I did the 7/8ths offset two years ago with a M.P. kit.
I just finished going the full 3" and shoving them under the frame rails.....should have done it in the first place.
In a '65 , I could run a 265/60 - 15 with a lot of room using the 7/8ths kit.
Problem is , that isn't a lot of tire.
I could maybe have gotten a 9" slick in there if it was short enough.
Now , I don't know for sure , but it will definitely be enough tire.
I used sliders for the rear .......this gives me a little lower ride height than shackles.
I have the old kit with some busted studs that should be easy enough to fix ......I'd look at a nut and bolt to make install much easier( they are a chore getting them in and worse coming out ) and the offset shackles that I'd part with for the price of a couple cheeseburgers and shipping.
The bear of using them is the nut that is welded to the inside of the perch......you need a good sized hole in the frame rail for this and getting the studs and the nut in and seated at the same time requires some persuasion.
But if you have a cut off wheel , sawzall , mig welder and truck drivers vocabulary , you could be mini tubbed , 3" relocated leafs and styling in about 40 hours.

Tubtar,

I do have all the above mentioned items and double on the truckers vocabulary I do have the 3 inch location kit just dont know if I will have the time to dedicate to the task. I think 40 hours is a bit much I figured half that, to 10 hour days should do it. is this alot of work or more calculating and layout then labor. my time is free of course.

No, the 3" relocation is not a bolt in deal.

After reading all this again, Im lost.


You stated you have parts. So is it the layout thats the hold up?

I heard 20 hours , but it took me a little longer.
The best advice I got was to go with 10 to 14 inch strips when filling the gap.
Of course I didn't take it at first.
I split the wheel well about 1/2" inside the seam and cut right along the inside of the bottom edge.
then made a cardboard template of the front and rear radius and cut right along the frame rail to where I wanted the radii to come in.
This made for very little patching.....like 1 piece that was a small triangle.
You need to weld along the top edge of the frame rail to restore structural integrity to the rail , then clamp the inner wheel well to the frame and tack it in.
I had 2 7/8ths gap over most of it and and 3 1/8th at the bottom of the rear.
I welded from underneath , so I did the equivelant of 10,000 ab crunches while doing it......and didn't lose a gram !

I used 20 gauge mild steel and with my toaster set on low , could actually run beads ( Lincoln 170 )
Once I was satisfied that the inner well was where I wanted it , I welded it in full length , then did the filling of the gap.
I made wooden wedges to keep the distance roughly where I wanted it as I went and welded in approx. 10 " strips till covered.
There is relocating the trunk hinge supports and notching the package tray brace.
Then mudding , sanding and squirting , so 20 hours seems optimistic.
But it turned out pretty fair I think.....and i got splatter paint to hide what isn't perfect.

Pm Dizuster for his tutorial done on power point . We did the mini tubs and relocated his springs on his Duster in a weekend.
Doug

thanks guys for all the help so far

I have no idea WTH you guys are talking about. Only Moparts could provide this level of specific A Body support. Good luck. God Bless the USA.

You mean these?

JCC;

where did you get those?? never seen them that nice. please share