I have a 318 engine that will not crank or backfire.What I have: a 318 engine in a Belvedere. I bought the car and was told that it was running until the ignition burned up due to not wiring it through the ballist resistor.So initially the engine would not fire. Therefore, put in another distributor and ignition box. The engine now fires but it will not hit. I turned the distributor all directions and it does not affect the turnover of the engine. So I decided to pull the timing cover and make sure the chain had not broke etc. Well someone has put a timing chain in there before. I rook it off and reset the chain and gear. Still the engine will not even backfire or nothing. And yes I put gas in the carb. Engine has compression. What could it be? I have run out of ideas

pull the forward plug on the drivers side then put your left thumb over the hole as you bump the starter over at the starter relay on the drivers fender large batt stud to brown wire to starter w a screwdriver until you feel compression building then continue to turn the eng (CW) w a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar on the front crank bolt or if the eng is worn enough and you are strong enough grab the fan and the fan belt & move it that way until the timing marks are at 10BTDC. then if the rotor is not under (or very close)to the dist cap terminal for the #1 plug wire either switch the wires on the cap (& they go clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2) or if you want your wires located where they are at or if the length of them dictates that they pretty much stay as is then take out the dist and shift the intermediate shaft slot so that the rotor is under #1 and with the vac adv pod roughly where you want it then turn the dist housing slightly until with the rotor as close to being under the #1 cap terminal as possible the closest reluctor blade is lined up w the magnet slot then tighten the dist holddown just enough so the housing is snug but can be turned w a medium amt of effort. Hookup your light, ((hopefully) fire it up and turn the dist to time it.

ok i did pull the number one plug out and turned the engine til the piston reached top. I have the cam set with the crank. But my question also is if the timing gear marks are set, does the rotor button needs to be set at the 6 oclock position towards the center of the car to be in time?
or do i pull the distibutor back out and set it facing the number 1 plug at the 4 oclock position?

going together when the tchain/gears are dot to dot (crank gear @ 12 o'clock and cam gear @ 6 o'clock) then yes #6 is ready to fire but w it together w harmonic dampener timing marks at 10 before with you feeling compression then #1 is ready to fire

So, your engine cranks (spins with the starter) but does not fire or start, right?

OK. You are on the right track, but are making it more complicated than it needs to be.

1) Turn crank so #1 piston is top dead center, or as close as you can get it. Having all plugs out will help, and don't worry about labeling any of them.

2) Remove drivers side valve cover and verify that BOTH push rods for #1 cylinder are free enough to spin with your fingers (no load on them). If not, you'll need to turn the crank one more revolution to TDC. If both push rods are free, then you're golden!

3) Install distributor if it's out so that the rotor is pointing to the #1 post on the cap. If distributor is already installed, install the rotor and mark where it's pointing. That will be your new, temporary #1 cylinder post. If the rotor is between posts, turn the distributor until the rotor points to a post.

4) Install the wires in the proper sequence and in the proper rotation starting at your new, temporary #1 post, install the plugs, install the valve cover, make sure your ignition wiring is connected and correct.

You engine WILL start and run now assuming you are getting fuel and electricity properly.

You can tune it up as it is, or if the dizzy was out of phase (per the factory specs on where #1 post "should be"), you can pull out it out and re-install it properly, but it's not necessary. That just makes things easier for someone else later.

Piece of cake!

Just a quick note- the rotor should point to #1 on it's COMPRESSION stroke. The piston can be at the top and not be on compression. bump the motor over while you have #1 plug out and hold your finger till you hear or feel air pressure, then slowly bring the piston to the top and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder on the cap, and go from there.

If both push rods for #1 are loose, it IS the compression stroke. If either one is tight, a valve is open, so no compression.