Does anyone have a good picture on the proper way a shaker base\hood seal is installed ? I have a repro seal (don't even know where it is from)and it doesn't seem to fit right no matter which way it is put on.

Thanks !

Both the air door and adapter ring seal gets glued with yellow weatherstrip adhesive..The seal's glue joint gets placed near the bellcrank...Missing from the pic is the cloth tape that covers the seal's glue joint...

Correct on the "Yellow death" adhesive, 3M Super weather strip adhesive appears close and possibly correct as it probably browned over time.
One thing is most of the original shaker gaskets also had a tape over the glue joint, though some earlier ones did not
Also, not to nit pic, but the air door seal looks a bit tall and narrow?

does the seal have a staple at the glue joint toward the bottom ??

It's been a while since I've restored the adapter ring but I somewhat remember some{I did'nt put any back on}staples...Old age and too much info in my head.. ...And yes that door seal does'nt even have the texture the original did...But I used it anyway... ...Another wonderful repop item...Although I did'nt slop the yellow glue all over the parts like the factory did...

Thanks, the seal I have does not look the same as the one in the picture. How much of the seal is actually glued to the base, as this one only allows for maybe a quarter inch.

Thanks again.

I will post some more underside pictures of an NOS seal installed on an original Shaker ring for reference. There should be more than a 1/4 inch on the underside to glue though, maybe 1/2 to 5/8.
For now this is what I have from the topside.

I don't have an underside pic of my NOS seal either....But here's a pic that Scott Smith had posted in a previous thread a few years back when we were discussing some shaker related facts...You definitely should have more than 1/4 inch wrapped around the underside of the ring...This one is all original...I've heard some of those aftermarket seals fit poorly...

Thanks guys, I got it. Had to take a razor blade and "release" more of the flap that glues to the bottom of the base.

So extending this question to the next step in the process, what is the best way to do the actual glueing? I need to do mine soon and from the test fitting it appears I'll need clamps. Is that correct?

Clothespins.
Works great on the trunk seals too.

my original seal split was in the back...aar's had it on the side also...

An old thread but alot of good info here. I have a couple of questions:

1: My seal is not preglued at the joint, I have to cut to length and then glue it. Is it better to cut to length and glue the joint first, or should I cut and glue the joint after I get it glued to the adapter?

2: is the seal glued to both the top and bottom of the adapter ring? Or just one or the other?

3: where can you get the air door seal? I didn't know there was suppose to be one and don't remember seeing one for sale.

Year One has the air door seal - under $10 IIRC

Original door seal

Tape

The last two posts show all of the correct details

For restoration accuracy the small seal is to be glued together at the rear of the opening as seen in the photos provided and as per the original drawing