Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: gch]
#596423
01/29/10 11:38 AM
01/29/10 11:38 AM
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Posts: 583 San Antonio, TX
CurYellowBird
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The guy I know is only offering me the .484 cam. He doesn't have the .474. So I'll probably end up going with comp cams nostalgia version. Whichever one I can get a better deal on. I'm not too keen on re-using someone else cam, just my preference on that.
Are the factory springs in a 383HP not able to put up with that small of a cam lift?
Project War Bird:
1971 Plymouth Roadrunner
383 4 speed with air conditioning
GY3 Curious yellow
All original
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#596425
01/29/10 12:13 PM
01/29/10 12:13 PM
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Posts: 583 San Antonio, TX
CurYellowBird
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I know about the summit cams too. I'm running the .442/.460 version in my sbc 350 and have had very good luck with it. I'll look into it.
Project War Bird:
1971 Plymouth Roadrunner
383 4 speed with air conditioning
GY3 Curious yellow
All original
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: CurYellowBird]
#596426
02/07/10 11:39 PM
02/07/10 11:39 PM
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Posts: 2,275 Desert Tracker
HYPER8oSoNic
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Quote:
I'm not dead set on keeping the 3.23's. So I'll probably just find another third member so I don't have to use my #'s one. I know my old man has more than one sitting around the house and one is a 3.91 gearing. I'll probably go with the .474 to work with my AC and with a 4 speed it should do pretty good in the 1/4.
I sent comp cams a request to get there 2 cents. I'll probably just stick with MP.
If you do stick with MP, the grind you would go with would be P4452993, 280/474 110CL. Good cam, with 3.91's will work well at the strip/street. The 3.91's CAN be changed when not running at the strip, RUN taller tires to raise effective gear ratio on those highway jaunts. Try to use a small single plane, or step to the Eddy Performer for good power. If you have good flowing heads run the Performer RPM. I know that the 4-throw is pretty self explanatory, run a carb (650-670 cfm for good snap thru the gears) with vac secondaries for econo/power. If not going with the MP cam, you might want to try Hughes Engines. Their hydraulic cams work very well and make torque/power. They are on the Internet. Food for thought!! Good luck with your 383!! It will run well!!
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids" "Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: CurYellowBird]
#596428
04/26/10 06:52 PM
04/26/10 06:52 PM
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HYPER8oSoNic
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Do your engine a favor, invest in a set of matching springs. 4speed + valve float (overrev) = dropped valve and (or) serious damage. It is not wise to invest in a cam without the proper springs.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids" "Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: P4120235 in a 383?
[Re: CurYellowBird]
#596429
04/26/10 07:10 PM
04/26/10 07:10 PM
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HYPER8oSoNic
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Quote:
I am going to mill the heads and what not to raise compression. I will be using the #'s matching 383 block from my car. It won't see a whole lot of drag time but I want the power to put the typical ricer in his place.
My only issue is knowing how the 4 speed works with all of this cause I have no experience on that side of the house. As I said before, I am probably going to do a gear swap. I have an 8 3/4 not a dana.
The 8 3/4" is a sturdy unit, very good alternative to the Dana. Lightweight, as compared to the Dana but just as strong to a point. For what you are doing, it will be MORE that adequate. The 4 throw is nearly bulletproof, but you will NEED to know how to SHIFT it with authority to be consistent. As far as the "ricers" are concerned with, word of caution - pick your fights (races) wisely. Just because a import has less cubes does not mean that they aren,t packing a HUGE PUNCH.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids" "Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: RUNCHARGER]
#596431
05/12/10 02:47 AM
05/12/10 02:47 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 583 San Antonio, TX
CurYellowBird
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Well here's a little update. My friend who was offering me the camshafts passed away roughly a little over a month ago from cancer. Hank Kruse was one bad a** car guy and acted like a kid in his 69' Charger RT/SE and died at the age of 69. I will really miss him, and the parts he left behind that I bought up are really going to help get my car together. And I have finally come up with what I believe is a reasonable combo.
I found an old man who is giving me a 69' HP 383 block for free and possibly a 400 later once he gets his son to bring it over. Either way the combo is going to remain the same.
*383 block standard bore or .030 over *KB400 pistons (-6cc dome) *452 heads with some port work and bowl blending *Factory Hi-po manifolds *Edelbrock RPM performer intake *Barry Grant 750cfm carb *4 speed, AC, manual disc brakes *3.91 gear with a 285/70/SR15 BFGoodrich tires * Shooting for 9.5:1 CR *Upgrade to electronic ignition
The only reason I'm sticking with my factory performance manifolds is due to clearance issues with the clutch linkages and power steering pump.
How detrimental are headers if the rest of the combo is there for the larger cam grinds? I am not going over .500 lift with my cam selection.
What are the main differences between the older and newer grind of the 284/.484? I know the LSA on the new grind is 114 compared to the 108 LSA on the older grind. How does this affect the motor in all aspects?
I'm really interested in the looks of Lunati's voodoo cams, particularly the 60302 and 60303. My goal out of this car is a fun, streetable car, limited strip, and plenty of torque to move the 4000lbs. Like to get a mid to low 13 the one or two times I take it to the quarter.
I had bought up Hank's old super stock springs, but thinking I'll just stick with the factory springs.
Thanks for the help and advice thus far guys. Still looking for opinions now that I have decided on a combination and goal.
Last edited by CurYellowBird; 05/12/10 02:49 AM.
Project War Bird:
1971 Plymouth Roadrunner
383 4 speed with air conditioning
GY3 Curious yellow
All original
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: CurYellowBird]
#596437
05/16/10 03:36 PM
05/16/10 03:36 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275 Desert Tracker
HYPER8oSoNic
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Quote:
Well here's a little update. My friend who was offering me the camshafts passed away roughly a little over a month ago from cancer. Hank Kruse was one bad a** car guy and acted like a kid in his 69' Charger RT/SE and died at the age of 69. I will really miss him, and the parts he left behind that I bought up are really going to help get my car together. And I have finally come up with what I believe is a reasonable combo.
I found an old man who is giving me a 69' HP 383 block for free and possibly a 400 later once he gets his son to bring it over. Either way the combo is going to remain the same.
*383 block standard bore or .030 over *KB400 pistons (-6cc dome) *452 heads with some port work and bowl blending *Factory Hi-po manifolds *Edelbrock RPM performer intake *Barry Grant 750cfm carb *4 speed, AC, manual disc brakes *3.91 gear with a 285/70/SR15 BFGoodrich tires * Shooting for 9.5:1 CR *Upgrade to electronic ignition
The only reason I'm sticking with my factory performance manifolds is due to clearance issues with the clutch linkages and power steering pump.
How detrimental are headers if the rest of the combo is there for the larger cam grinds? I am not going over .500 lift with my cam selection.
What are the main differences between the older and newer grind of the 284/.484? I know the LSA on the new grind is 114 compared to the 108 LSA on the older grind. How does this affect the motor in all aspects?
I'm really interested in the looks of Lunati's voodoo cams, particularly the 60302 and 60303. My goal out of this car is a fun, streetable car, limited strip, and plenty of torque to move the 4000lbs. Like to get a mid to low 13 the one or two times I take it to the quarter.
I had bought up Hank's old super stock springs, but thinking I'll just stick with the factory springs.
Thanks for the help and advice thus far guys. Still looking for opinions now that I have decided on a combination and goal.
First of all my condolences to the family of the man that died. I too suffered losses in my family due to the dreaded disease. God bless. Now it sounds like you are getting closer to your goal. As far as telling the engine size 383 vs. 400 (.060 over 383), it could be stamped on the side of the block and/or a code is on the front pad near the distributor. Those are your telltales, and IF it is a 400, well a little arm lengthening CAN do a lot for low - midrange torque/power. Since it is basically a street ride, the magnum exhausts are more than adequate. 13 second rides DO work well with them as long as your engine tune is sharp. 3.91's can get you to low 13's, but the cam plays a BIG role with the 4000 lb car weight. You may or may not need lower the gear to 4.10-4.30 range. Pick the right cam and work on the ignition timing/jetting. It may be what you need without sacrificing the driveability and day to day manners of the car. The Voodoo cams are of a good design, just watch your lift with the stock heads, or you may have some machine work to do on the valve seats. The superstock springs, hold on to them!! Find out the Spring #'s and it will lead you to the rate of the spring. Your better approach is to use the current springs (unless they are really worn) and put a spring clamp kit just rearward of the front spring eye. Add a pinion snubber to the differential (nose) and it will lower your traction problems at the strip. Set pinion snubber about 1 - 2" from floorboard at strip, depending how hard you drive at strip. Not really needed on the cruising runs. The 114 degree cam basically gives a broader powerband and a smoother idle. The 108 degree cam gives a narrow but higher powerband and has more of a "rumpety - rump" type idle. Either one are good, it just depends on the engine design you have (compression, cam, carb, gears, vehicle weight, intended usage), You get the picture? Food for thought my friend.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids" "Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#596438
05/16/10 08:29 PM
05/16/10 08:29 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 583 San Antonio, TX
CurYellowBird
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Thanks for the condolences hypersonic.
I have both a 383 and 400 blocks now and figure they both look the same unless your a mopar nut and can identify the ID pads.
I might try headers, but I'm worried that I'm gonna buy a set of flowtechs or summits and will have to modify my clutch linkages.
As for the cam, my father doesn't agree with the 60303 lunati cam but really likes the look of the xe268 cam. So if he likes that one, then I think lunati's 60302 would be better choice with the setup I'm going for.
Last edited by CurYellowBird; 05/16/10 08:30 PM.
Project War Bird:
1971 Plymouth Roadrunner
383 4 speed with air conditioning
GY3 Curious yellow
All original
|
|
|
Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: CurYellowBird]
#596440
05/23/10 06:31 PM
05/23/10 06:31 PM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,275 Desert Tracker
HYPER8oSoNic
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Quote:
Thanks for the condolences hypersonic.
I have both a 383 and 400 blocks now and figure they both look the same unless your a mopar nut and can identify the ID pads.
I might try headers, but I'm worried that I'm gonna buy a set of flowtechs or summits and will have to modify my clutch linkages.
As for the cam, my father doesn't agree with the 60303 lunati cam but really likes the look of the xe268 cam. So if he likes that one, then I think lunati's 60302 would be better choice with the setup I'm going for.
As far as headers go, it is a better product/for more money world. You might get lucky on a set that fits with your clutch linkage. And it might be a little pricey. If you do, you might as well go with the coated headers (last longer). 383's and 400's are exactly the same in dimension, so if you decide to swap one for the other, no problems. Or if you want to go low buck go, with the Magnum 383 - 440 exhaust manifolds. They would clear your clutch linkage and work just as well as headers till 4500-5000 rpm. Then headers will take off in the power department after 5000 rpm. Its up to you on what you want to do. Resaerch your cam and BE HONEST about your engine's powerband. Too much can be more harmful, than good. Especially at the pump!!!
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids" "Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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Re: MP .474 or .484 in a 383?
[Re: HYPER8oSoNic]
#596441
05/31/10 01:58 PM
05/31/10 01:58 PM
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HYPER8oSoNic
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The .474 cam is of a good design. Think about the Edelbrock 383 performer RPM. It is an overall improvement over the 383 Magnum (Roadrunner) intake. Gives the mill better breathing room after 4000+ rpm and better low end torque above 1500- 1800 rpm. It will compliment this cam well. Be sure to check your hood clearance, though.
Last edited by HYPER8oSoNic; 06/26/10 10:02 PM.
"Stupidity is Ignorance on Steroids" "Yeah, it's hopped to over 160" (quote by Kowalski in the movie Vanishing Point 1970 - Cupid Productions)
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