I'm looking for anyone who has seen/used the AMD 68 quarter skins compared to the "other" skins sold by Sherman. I bought the Sherman skins a couple years ago for my 68 convertible and due to a couple moves/lack of time and space I haven't got them hung yet. Are the AMD skins enough better that I should sell what I have and get them? I'm only going to get one chance to do the car right. I have some time to decide as I'm deployed to Afghanistan for a year. Thanks in advance for any advice!

I would use the full AMD panels,and trim them to fit the convertible if I was doing them. I did them that way on my wifes Challenger convertible. Convertibles flex more than hardtops,I'd rather do a small blend around the convertible top well,than have a six foot seem down the top of the rearquarterpanel,that may be prone to flexing and cracking.

The area around the top opening and 1/4 window opening is A LOT different on a vert versus a hardtop and will require A LOT of work in areas with compound curves to pull it off.

IMO , and without seeing the 2 quarters side by side it's going to be a tossup, but a real good metal man can make either one look nice.
IMO ,,,, I think if you already have the skins I'd use them. OR buy the AMD panel and cut it along to the top similar to the skin anyway.

And is't AMD now offering a skin based on they're full panel anyway?

Again,,,,,I'm not a body man so it's just an educated guess. But I know someone who did use a full hardtop panel on a vert and it was a LOT of work- it was a 69 Plymouth B-body btw

Thanks guys!!! The the quarters really aren't bad except they were damaged and now oil can badly. I've been advised by a good body guy that putting skins on would be/look the best. I cut the driver's side off about 12" down from the top so I don't have to go all the way up to the top. The passenger side was damaged behind the door, drilled and pulled. I have NOT cut it and may not if I can figure a way to get the oil canning out of it. That side really only needs lowers in front/behind the wheel. There is no rust in the wheel opening. So, with this info what say you now?? I know, let's see the pics. Unfortunately I can't get/don't have pics. Thanks again!

All I can tell you is AMD uses thicker sheetmetal than Sherman/Goodmark. The parts are heavier even than the originals.But thats a good thing when you are performing bodywork and doing some welding. They will warp less.

AMD also has crisper lines and less waviness on their panels.

Id sell what you have and get the AMD full quarters and use what you need.

Here you go guy. This is the Hemi Cuda body that I resurrected awhile back. The quarters were really very straight but had small issues at both front of wheel opening and rear as usual. Both the customer and I went over the pro's and cons of total replacement and decided to keep as much of the original metal as possible so I fabbed everything that I needed from the correct gauge stock. Everything was perfectly fit and then hammer welded together with my tig machine. tThe entire joint and it will never crack. Making weld repairs such as this will be as good as the base metal itself. The car really turned out very nice and since it was an original black car once the paint work is finished up it should be really neat. I prefer repairing just what's needed. How ever if I had a ragtop that say needed the whole quarter I would at least buy the AMD panels simply because they are thicker material and should hold up just fine for that application. I think that the thinner steel in the half panels would actually be too weak to support the body flex on the Vert. I would make whatever I needed to make it happen. Also that oil canning on your other side can be repaired with the proper metal techniques and saved. I have already done that on a R/T Charger as well. All things are possible! Just my 2

Another view:

Here's the 69 R/T car. Stuffed pretty hard on the right side behind the door. All original steel car.

Quick Silver that is AMAZING!!! What do you recommend for taking out the oilcan effect? Do you use a shrinking disc, heat/damp rag, etc? I'd like to save the quarter if possible. Thanks again!!

Pardon my ignorance; "oil canning", wassat?

Pardon my basic terminology but it's what happens when the metal gets stretched from damage and loses it's "tin" (I believe that's the term). The metal gets to a point where you can push it in and it pops back. Similar to when you open a jar of jelly, etc that has been vacuum packed. Before it's ever been opened, if you push on the center of the top you can't push it in. After it's been opened you can press down on it and it pops back. It gets the name from the cans oil used to come in before the plastic bottles. Make sense?