Hi Guys,

I just got a Dana 60 and will be putting it into my 69 Charger but have to fix a leak on the passenger's side axle seal. A few questions. do the axles just pull out when you remove the retaining bolts on the ends, or do you need to remove the cover to remove "C" clips or anything else inside the carrier? I'll be draining the fluid, obviously, so what oil should I use to fill the rear back up? It's a 4.10 power lock so I'll need to add the special oil additive for posi rears, correct? What's the best place the get the end seals from? The other side isn't leaking, but figured since I have it all apart might as well reseal that side too. Thanks for the help!

Cheers

They pull straight out. I leave the brakes on you just have to wiggle it and stop it from catching on the parking brake bar. seal is right there.

Dam what kind of fluid is that!

that's correct right fluid and additive

There are 2 seals on each side, an inner and outer seal.

Yeah, I was just opening up my service manual when I saw your post. Looks like it's the same pulling the axles out of a 8.75 and a Dana, procedure wise. Those two seals, what's the common leak problem? Is it the inner o-ring one or the outer oil seal that usually fails? When I pull the axle shaft out, will that mean I automatically have to replace the inner o-ring? Do I defenitley need that special tool they describe to do that?

Thanks for the help!

Cheers

The inner seal separates the wheel bearing from the differential fluid. The outer seal keeps the grease from the bearing away from the brake shoes and prevents dirt and fluids from contaminating the bearing.

There are 2 different sizes of inner seals, depending on the year.

Send DoctorDiff a PM, he should be able to help you with parts and advice.

o-ring?

does it have the stock bearing or green bearings?

greens have a o-ring around it and it can be run with/without the axle tube seals

pack the back on the seal with grease to help keep the spring in place while them in

It's h*ll replacing the outer seal. You run into replacing the collar on the bearings. I'd just replace the inner seal.

Assuming you have factory Timken bearings, gear lube leaks are the inner seal,not the outer.
I used a slide hammer to hook behind the seal and pop it out.
I think the 1 1/4 socket for the balancer bolt is the correct diameter to install the new seal..
Pack some wheel grese on the inside of the seal to hold the tension spring in place while installing, they tend to come off while you are installing the seal.
Also pack the rear bearings like a front wheel bearing, gear lube does not lube them..
Yes you must use the good gear lube additive, Previous posters on this subject recommend the Ford stuff..

The splines of your axle can ruin your new seal. Be careful when sliding the axle in. I cover the splines with with a core from a toilet paper roll. I cut the core lengthwise so I can remove it as the axle spline goes past the new seal. Lube the new seal with bearing grease. It helps the spring as mentioned before.
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!!!!

Thanks for the help guys. I'll send DrDiff a PM. As far as I can tell, the rear hasn't been apart, but not 100% sure so as far as originality, I"m not sure on the inside. The rear BOM number decode to 68-69 B-Body 4.10 Power Lock with a October-30-1968 build date. Sounds like it's the inner seal. Appreciate the help and tips!

Cheers