A833 parts and tools
#558650
12/20/09 05:05 PM
12/20/09 05:05 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
Swiss_Robert
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
|
I have my A833 transmission taken apart. To put it together again, I need just few parts: Gaskets and seals. But also some more...
For me it looks advisable to have this "anchor" tool to help with the installation of the countershaft. It's like a shorter version of the push-through bar and helps to take all these rollers at their place.
Also want new thrust washers for the countershaft, they have metal pieces pressed into the lining.
Can you recommend a shop (that takes international orders!!!) that has all parts for an A833??? I was not successful with Google...
After all these years having a 440 I realized that this means having an attitude... and a budget.
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: Swiss_Robert]
#558652
12/20/09 06:09 PM
12/20/09 06:09 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,872
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
|
Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,872
Ontario, Canada
|
Quote:
For me it looks advisable to have this "anchor" tool to help with the installation of the countershaft. It's like a shorter version of the push-through bar and helps to take all these rollers at their place.
No tool necessary. Use a light coating of wheel bearing grease to hold all the rollers in the countershaft cluster. Then install the shaft. Same for the thrust washers - use a light coat of grease to "glue" them to the case while you drop the cluster in.
Quote:
Also want new thrust washers for the countershaft, they have metal pieces pressed into the lining.
Do they really need to be replaced? I've done a few cases and never had a set worn enough to need replacing.
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: Swiss_Robert]
#558653
12/20/09 07:01 PM
12/20/09 07:01 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
|
Robert save your self some time and make the dummy shaft out an old broomstick or buy a dowel rod.I like to glue the thrust bearings into the case with superglue or a thin film of sealer just to keep them in place while inserting the cluster pin.I am a firm believer of "replace all the bearings and brass now" because it's easier to do it right the first time. Personally I deal with Jamie Passon when I need parts because I always receive all the right parts the first time so I always give him the call when I need 833 parts. To remove the reverse idler pin just use your imagination,some 1/2"threaded rod and various sockets and washers.You want to engineer a tool to "push" the pin out.The reason you are doing this is to get the reverse lever out to replace the O-ring on the selector shaft.I have used a long brass drift drive it out in a pinch but pressing it out is easier. That about does it for special tools other than a press and retaining ring pliers. Gus 
64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: Stanton]
#558654
12/21/09 08:21 AM
12/21/09 08:21 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
Swiss_Robert
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
|
Thanks so much guys  You are SO helpful!!! Quote:
No tool necessary. Use a light coating of wheel bearing grease to hold all the rollers in the countershaft cluster. Then install the shaft. Same for the thrust washers - use a light coat of grease to "glue" them to the case while you drop the cluster in.
Oh - good: I'll give that a try. But only one: these are 76 rolls to put in place - if one falls down then game is over.
Quote:
Do they (thrust washers) really need to be replaced? I've done a few cases and never had a set worn enough to need replacing.
Again a good point. It's not that much a matter of "worn". They have pieces of metal pressed into the (what is it? brass?) surface... I try to upload a pic... Thanks for comments again.
After all these years having a 440 I realized that this means having an attitude... and a budget.
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: mod5v]
#558657
12/21/09 11:14 AM
12/21/09 11:14 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,872
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
|
Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,872
Ontario, Canada
|
Quote:
Again a good point. It's not that much a matter of "worn". They have pieces of metal pressed into the (what is it? brass?) surface... I try to upload a pic... Thanks for comments again.
I see what you mean now. I didn't understand that from your first post.
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: Swiss_Robert]
#558660
12/21/09 10:33 PM
12/21/09 10:33 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
|
The Syncro might not always look worn,you have to see how it feels on the cone of the gear.When you push it down on the gear does it fit down on and not spin? The job of the syncro ring is to slow the gear down so the slider can engage the teeth with little to no effort or grind.So if you cant feel any friction or the brass doesn't "grab" the gear then replace it.I always figure if your in there then replace it PERIOD!!! But then i do transmissions for other guys and I don't need to "got through it again" because I didn't replace a wearable part while I had it apart on the bench. Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: fourgearsavoy]
#558661
12/22/09 04:10 AM
12/22/09 04:10 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
Swiss_Robert
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
|
Thanks Gus. Yes it grabs the gear and it does it very well. That's the point: All these things feel and look like new - not just "still okay". I have this Challenger for 8 years now, but did only few hundreds of miles. I've had problems with the driveline (so I always took my GTO  ), that's right. But now, when disasembled I found some explanations: Gear 2 slipped out because the shifting rod was too short - simply too short. I felt "the clutch turning in the clutch pedal" - and yes, the throwout bearing feels ill. AND there were vibrations - in certain driving situations (had already a post for that). So I was looking for bad bearings in the transmission. But I found the transmission looking like NEW inside - except thrust washers... It seems I've got a car that one of the owners before me did a number of things. It's a fake, so someone assembled it that way. Some parts are obviously like new, others are junk. And some are just the wrong ones... So you MAY be right - but bearings, gears and sync-rings look so overwhelming good - that I just cant believe it would make sense to change them. If I only would have the slightest doubt - I would. And I'll check that again and think about it again.
After all these years having a 440 I realized that this means having an attitude... and a budget.
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: Swiss_Robert]
#558662
12/22/09 10:58 AM
12/22/09 10:58 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,285
Ohio
64dodge572
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,285
Ohio
|
When does the trans slip out of 2nd gear?
Brewers Performance Inc. 4-speed transmission and parts specialists PH 937-947-4416 or 937-698-4259 FAX 937-947-4419 www.brewersperformance.com
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: 64dodge572]
#558663
12/22/09 11:41 AM
12/22/09 11:41 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
Swiss_Robert
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
|
With just a bit higher rpm and usually when driving downwards (draging the engine).
To prevent, one could permanently pull the shifter handle backwards - that was my impression.
After all these years having a 440 I realized that this means having an attitude... and a budget.
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: Swiss_Robert]
#558665
01/23/10 06:28 PM
01/23/10 06:28 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 704
USA
rftroy
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 704
USA
|
Quote:
After all my experience I tend to another believing: One can see and feel, if a ball bearing is bad! And if not, it's better to leave it alone.
This is a common belief, and one that is not correct. The primary failure modes of ball and roller bearings, which are properly lubricated and not overstressed, is fatigue.
A bearing will probably look and feel fine up until the point at which enough running time causes spalling of the bearing due to fatigue. Fatigue life is dependent upon the load on the bearing and the number of cycles or revolutions it undergoes.
http://www.vibanalysis.co.uk/technical/contents.html
If you are working on a mechanism which is difficult or expensive to access or service, like a transmission or rear axle, and it already has a substantial amount of operating time on its bearings, I would always replace the bearings.
Bob
AAR 4-speed 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner 4-speed 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv 383 4-speed 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv Slant 6 OD4 2.94, 71 B5 Blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red;
70 Challenger S/E. 505 6 pack, Passon 5-speed, 3.55, B7 Blue
|
|
|
Re: A833 parts and tools
[Re: rftroy]
#558666
01/24/10 05:57 PM
01/24/10 05:57 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
Swiss_Robert
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 263
Switzerland, Europe
|
Very interesting paper!
I agree that a roller bearing will not run forever. As a conclusion from this paper it should be possible to tell how long (how many miles) a main bearing in a A833 attached to a 440 in average (or minimum) will last...
Any idea? How much is "substantial"?
My impression was, that this time is expected to be so long that it is not relevant to me - first other components (of a transmission) will fail like the syncro-drums.
The article also says, that the process of failing takes time and that a "path pattern" will become visible during that process. So it's also true that "one can see" if a bearing reasonably should be replaced.
Thinking about all that I must say, that I probably would decide different in case of a wheel bearing - where I would not expect such a long lifetime.
But thanks anyway for this.
After all these years having a 440 I realized that this means having an attitude... and a budget.
|
|
|
|
|
. It's really no problem to built in the countershaft - the rolls do not fall out (they fit tight so the last one "clicks" in and makes the entire ring quite robust).
