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Converting from single to dual master cylined
#558339
12/20/09 09:02 AM
12/20/09 09:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 353
Chesterfield, MIch
Cuda67
OP
super street
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OP
super street
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 353
Chesterfield, MIch
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Thanks for any help.
I have a 65 Dodge Coronet that has the std drum brakes on the rear and the front is mopar single piston disc brakes from an e-body. They are manual brakes. My problem is the master cylinder is a single and I want to upgrade to a dual master cylinder. I want to stay with manual. (I think.) Who makes a kit to do this. Any sugestions would help.
Last edited by Cuda67; 12/20/09 09:07 AM.
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Re: Converting from single to dual master cylined
[Re: Cuda67]
#558340
12/20/09 10:18 AM
12/20/09 10:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 89
North Carolina, USA
Husker1
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 89
North Carolina, USA
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Dr. Diff sells a kit - "Aluminum master cylinder package. Kit includes 1 1/32 bore master cylinder with level reservoir, billet aluminum adapter and push rod retainer. Correct bore for most Mopar musclecars $85". If you need an offset m/c adapter (not sure with hemi in b-body) Mancini has those. You will need to plumb into car and install a proportioning valve if you have not all ready. A factory type proportioning valve can be purchased from inline tube or an adjustable one from various sources - summit would have a basic one or SSBC offers a nice one that incorporates the prop valve with the distribution block. links- http://www.doctordiff.com/?page_id=41http://inlinetube.com/Summitracing.com ssbc prop valve- http://www.manciniracing.com
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Re: Converting from single to dual master cylined
[Re: Cuda67]
#558341
12/20/09 10:32 AM
12/20/09 10:32 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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At your parts house grab (1) 67-69 drum manual brake M/C & check that it has the groove in the piston recess to hold the neoprene retainer and (2) a piece of vac line that will fit over the ball end of the (reuse your original) pushrod onto the pushrod recess and (3) a brass male inverted flare plug fitting (3/16") to cap the brake splitter when you remove the rear brake line from it and (4) a brass double female inverted flare fitting (also 3/16") which screws onto this rear line and the other end of the female fitting goes to the forward (closest to the radiator) M/C port with (5) an appropriate length of prefabbed brake line (3/16"). May need 2 pieces and another female brass inverted fitting to connect them just like previous. If you want an aluminum M/C get one w the right bore size for your app and has the recess for the neoprene retainer same as before and buy/fab the adapter between the M/C and the firewall. Aluminum M/C's have a piston that is closer to the flange than the iron ones which will give you a (much) higher pedal and the adapter moves the M/C forward to restore the pedal height to where it was plus adapting the 4 bolt firewall studs to the 4 hole alum M/C. EDIT meant to say 2 hole alum M/C
Last edited by RapidRobert; 12/20/09 10:50 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Converting from single to dual master cylined
[Re: Lefty]
#558344
12/20/09 08:22 PM
12/20/09 08:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
CR8CRSHR
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
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Quote:
You need a combination valve to deal with the mix of disc front and drum rear -
http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-support/reference-valves.cfm
Quote:
COMBINATION
A combination valve incorporates metering and proportioning into one valve. These are available for disc/drum or disc/disc systems.
Quote:
Disc/drum combination valve is used to provide the correct front to rear pressure balance and to help eliminate rear wheel lockup and nose dive .
http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=611
http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=524
Hey Lefty/Dane...I was under the impression that a combination valve was not needed and that a proportioning valve will work instead. I am using a dual master with a power brake booster and a proportioning valve on my 66 300 with disc front and drum rear. Also the same set up on my 66 Satellite. I have the combination valve as well but it is not currently used. Which is better? The proportioning valve or the combination???? 
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Re: Converting from single to dual master cylined
[Re: CR8CRSHR]
#558345
12/20/09 09:24 PM
12/20/09 09:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
Lefty
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
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Quote:
Hey Lefty/Dane...I was under the impression that a combination valve was not needed and that a proportioning valve will work instead. I am using a dual master with a power brake booster and a proportioning valve on my 66 300 with disc front and drum rear. Also the same set up on my 66 Satellite. I have the combination valve as well but it is not currently used. Which is better? The proportioning valve or the combination????
Hey Wild Bill!  Hows the "retired" life treating you? Did you get the Plymouth running good?
Try some panic stops in the wet. If it wants to swap ends use the combination valve. I would always go with a combination valve on a disc/drum car, but you know I'm a picky [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean].  
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Re: Converting from single to dual master cylined
[Re: Lefty]
#558348
12/21/09 01:40 PM
12/21/09 01:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
CR8CRSHR
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,530
Nunya CA
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Quote:
Quote:
Hey Lefty/Dane...I was under the impression that a combination valve was not needed and that a proportioning valve will work instead. I am using a dual master with a power brake booster and a proportioning valve on my 66 300 with disc front and drum rear. Also the same set up on my 66 Satellite. I have the combination valve as well but it is not currently used. Which is better? The proportioning valve or the combination????
Hey Wild Bill! Hows the "retired" life treating you? Did you get the Plymouth running good?
Try some panic stops in the wet. If it wants to swap ends use the combination valve. I would always go with a combination valve on a disc/drum car, but you know I'm a picky [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean].
Thanks for the feed back Dane. No the Satellite is not up and running...YET. I have to get the car to where the brakes will work so that I can have it shipped to my new place in Florida as a non-op car. The 300 is working. I have the motor in the Satellite and all but I have not had time to fire it up and I am short some parts for that and the exhaust. I have every thing really but just no time to get it operable. The retired life ain't what it's cracked up to be. This fixed limited income sucks big time. That is why I took the Air Force job in Florida as a Civilian. Need to makes some more $$$$'s. You and your family have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year...Wild Bill/Cr8crshr  
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Re: Converting from single to dual master cylined
[Re: Cuda67]
#558349
04/27/12 03:06 PM
04/27/12 03:06 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Really no need for the fancy block / tee / combo valve. Actually better with just an adj prop valve spliced into the rear line. Just buy some 3/16" tubing, plumb the new master's rear fitting to both front brakes (using existing tee w/ rear outlet blocked) then use a union and some more tubing to go from front M/C fitting to rear line, plum prop valve anywhere there. Only caveat: be sure to use OEM fittings at the m/cyl - they have an extended "nose", aftermarket crap frequently doesn't seal correctly. I can make a PDF of the step-by-step, send an e-mail to me at rick@richardehrenberg.com and I'll send it to you (no PM pse.) Rick
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