I'm new here and I thought I would start by saying you'all got a great site it has already been helpful THANKS!

Car 67 satellite 383 2bbl converted to 4 bbl with al. intake and dual exhaust with flowmasters but oldstyle log exh manifolds.

Here's the puzzle. The first owner which owned the car for 33 years told the second owner he had done a major overhaul and documented the mileage. The second owner whom I bought it from put about 8,000 miles on it.

When I got it and started messing with the engine this is what I found.

Bad Idle
Constantly stalled
Bad manners "back fire"
Vacuum steady normal about 17" at idle and normal through out the normal ranges.

After a bit the idle is better still a slight miss. It no longer back fires unless cold. And I can't really get it to stall.

The original compression test showed cylinders all over the board with two at 135 and 145 and others at 90 and 110 etc.

I put the al. intake on and the area below the intake looked clean. Meaning where the tappets and pushrods are located. I cleaned the engine and the heads cleaned easily but the block was stubborn and had old road grime on it. I removed the valve covers to install new gaskets because they were leaking and the rockers and springs were clean even showing shades of turquoise paint on the springs.

The oil pump looked like it had been changed. The Engine does not leak oil OP 45-60 psi.

The engine does not use oil.

Anyway I decided to try to kill it since it looked like it needed a rebuild anyway. So I did everything I could besides over-reving it and it just seems like it is getting better.

Remember the vacuum is dead steady through out all operation. New electronic ign and upgraded alt and electronic voltage regulator "as suggested".

One pump turn key start up cold or hot fires right off.

I put it in low with it warmed up stomped the gas and it smouldered the rear tire without any hesitation No posi yet.

Vacuum at idle is now around 18" still a very slight miss, plugs changed carb tuned/overhauled.

It has a nice steady low idle.

So with the engine not leaking or using any oil at 128,000 miles, steady vacuum solid performance but bad compression numbers what do you think the first owner really did as his noted Major overhaul. The manual clearly shows finger prints and time spent between the overhaul pages for a 383 engine with pencil markings on the tightening order for the heads he put a circle for one side and an x for the other as he tightened them.

Thanks again! gary

If it runs and drives good and doesn't smoke why worry about it. You tried to kill it and it didn't die. Just drive it.

I think you should just run her till she breaks. It seems like its plenty strong. If its just a weekend toy use her as is. If it needs to be reliable no matter what dig in and beef up/replace what you need to. Mopars are excessive by design so you can maybe get away with a sloppy rebuild a little easier than with some other manufacturers. A bit of a pressure variance in cylinders is not good but it can be lived with. You may need to run it a little on the rich side just to make sure you have enough fuel to the leaner cylinders. That may help with the miss if its due to a lean condition. Welcome to the board.

Yep...just drive it.
Probably the car sat for an extended time.
A horse needs to be run at a regular basis--just can't keep 'em in the barn,LOL.
The two lower compression cylinders may contribute to a rough idle when cold,etc.But should be fine overall once up to temp..
If you tried to kill it and it did not die,leave it.
You know what DODGE stands for..
Do Or Die Good,Engine

Thanks for the replies. Do you think he actually overhauled it?

you found you're problems(most)
compression you say is 90?? 100 135 145
either valves stuck or bad,
ring stuck ?
i would at least pull the heads
have them checked
no i wouldn't keep driving it!

From the discription it sounds like it's been overhauled. Have you done another comp test since you have put it through the wringer. When you did the test did you have all the plugs out and the carb wide open? Did you squirt a little oil in the low cylinders to see if the comp came up any?

Most likely a valve job / top end rebuild. Most of these older cars quickly burned valves when leaded fuel was taken away from them. I have the exact combo you did, with almost the exact story. orig. owner owned mine until '02. had a valve job in the early 90's. so on. I started with the same plan as you: 4-bbl carb conversion. but like most hot rodders, I got carried away and soon had the old low comp. 383 running in the 13's. I'm now installing a solid lifter 451

As far as trying to kill it.... its a 383, man. They're hard to kill! all that big block architecture is designed to stand up to 500 horse, Hemi type abuse. 383's have a short stroke that makes them easy on bottom end parts, and yours was rated at only 270 hp. Something in the valvetrain may let go, The ignition system may die, but the bottom end of a 383 is pretty stout. traditionally, these cars will fall down around their drivetrain.

Drive it and have fun! Welcome to Moparts!

I lay money on a valve seat that was carboned up. I have had the same problem with comp on one engine that would go as low as 80PSI I sprayed top cylinder lube into the port and ran it out comp jumped back to 135 and no more miss. Frankly if its not broke don't fix it. And a can of sea foam and or a bottle of marvel mystery oil is cheap compared to a head set

Sea Foam has helped me in the past. Just dump it in your oil and run it for a while. A week or two then dump oil.

Sea foam in the GAS TANK to help clean carbon off the valve seats.

If it was a valve problem wouldn't it show up in the vacuum gage?

Anyway I'm going to take another compression check, and see what that yields.

Thanks again!

IMO drive and forget it till it breaks. Don't go looking for something to spend your money on.
From what you say it runs good so leave it alone.

My new toy had been sitting off and on for about 7 years. The oil level and color looked good (and passed the feel/smell test) so I have been driving it around some. I figure it has some moisture contamination (from condensation) and needs changing, but why not let it circulate and get some of the crap loosened up and then drain it. The engine runs better every time I start it. I'm guessing things are finally starting to get loosened up after all those years of sitting. Sounds like yours is very similar. Keep a close watch on it and drive it!

Just got done doing another compression test.

Warm engine, carb WOT, fully charged battery.

1-100 oil squirted in - 145
3-120
5-100 oil squireted in - 140
7-135

2-150
4-145
6-140
8-100 oil squirted in - 140

So now what do you think.

Got a little ring seepage but I'd just run it as is.