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Re: welding race cars [Re: MR_P_BODY] #547976 12/08/09 02:26 PM 12/08/09 02:26 PM
Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 388 Michigan S SD800 enthusiast
SD800 enthusiast S Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 388 Michigan	Quote: Quote: Quote: When I took my Challeger to have it certified the first question the guy asked was what did you weld it with a 110 volt or 220 volt mig welder? We used a 220 volt and I asked why he asked, he said if we had used a 110 volt he would not certify it, got my sticker 25.4 certified!!! I dont know who certified your car, but I know Tom Block in Michigan and he would not certify a chrome-moly anything that was not tig welded No one should if it was moly and migged The chassis is mild steel, that's why it was mig welded. You'll have plenty of time to sleep when your dead, let's go

Re: welding race cars [Re: Comp_Chassis] #547977 12/08/09 10:12 PM 12/08/09 10:12 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 771 Btween a rock and a hard place moparlulu super stock
moparlulu super stock Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 771 Btween a rock and a hard place	[Quote] Tig machines will weld anything you will come across, but it is slow and labor intensive compared to mig welding. Not to mention, sometimes its hard enough to get a mig gun into some places on a race car, now think about getting the tig torch, your other hand and filler rod in there, your head in a position so you can see the puddle and then throw also trying to operate the foot pedal all at the same time. As for shielding gas. Obviously with a tig you are pretty much stuck with argon. With the mig there are various mixes you can use. I have tried several of the different mixes over the years and I have always gone back to using just straight CO2. Last time I filled a large bottle it was like $25, lasts about 3-4 times longer than mix gas and Ive always been happier with the welds. I had to use a mirror to tig the tops of the back braces to the main hoop on my wife's roll-bar. That was a fun job! Myself, I'm the other way around. I like the mix gas's better than straight co2. Not as splattery for me.

Re: welding race cars [Re: SD800] #547978 12/08/09 10:31 PM 12/08/09 10:31 PM
Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,590 Indy J joshking440 Lunch is on me!
joshking440 Lunch is on me! J Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,590 Indy	Quote: Quote: Quote: Quote: When I took my Challeger to have it certified the first question the guy asked was what did you weld it with a 110 volt or 220 volt mig welder? We used a 220 volt and I asked why he asked, he said if we had used a 110 volt he would not certify it, got my sticker 25.4 certified!!! I dont know who certified your car, but I know Tom Block in Michigan and he would not certify a chrome-moly anything that was not tig welded No one should if it was moly and migged The chassis is mild steel, that's why it was mig welded. its all coming together now

Re: welding race cars [Re: joshking440] #547979 12/08/09 11:28 PM 12/08/09 11:28 PM
Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 2,495 Richmond , Virginia BEEQUIK top fuel
BEEQUIK top fuel Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 2,495 Richmond , Virginia	I could not decide if I needed a 220 volt or wanted a 110 for the convenience. Since I mostly do sheetmetal work or maybe some thicker brackets I liked the portability of the 110. BUT I also have a tractor that needs some welding from time to time so I also wanted a 220 unit with some more power.What I found was A new Millermatic called the 211 with MVP. MVP stands for Multi-voltage plug.It has an end that threads onto the power cord you can plug into a 110 outlet for the small stuff,or a bigger end that also threads onto the cord for the 220 outlet and then you can turn up the power!! I have only used the 110 side so far but it works great and is easy to use.It was $948 and I think it will last me the rest of my life... 5656044-IMG_4291.JPG (117 downloads)

Re: welding race cars [Re: BEEQUIK] #547980 12/09/09 12:38 AM 12/09/09 12:38 AM
Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 9,100 Rogue River, OR Jeremiah master
Jeremiah master Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 9,100 Rogue River, OR	I love my 211! I sold my 212 because it did not get used very often and half of the time I used it was when someone needed me to bring it somewhere to weld something for them. It got old lifting that 212 into my truck with an engine hoist only to get to the "job" and find no 220V plug in sight! I think for the hobbyist the 211 is perfect for the occasional project. Plus it plugs in anywhere and only weighs 75 lbs.

Re: welding race cars [Re: BEEQUIK] #547981 12/09/09 10:43 AM 12/09/09 10:43 AM
Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl B bonefish OP master
bonefish OP master B Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl	Quote: I could not decide if I needed a 220 volt or wanted a 110 for the convenience. Since I mostly do sheetmetal work or maybe some thicker brackets I liked the portability of the 110. BUT I also have a tractor that needs some welding from time to time so I also wanted a 220 unit with some more power.What I found was A new Millermatic called the 211 with MVP. MVP stands for Multi-voltage plug.It has an end that threads onto the power cord you can plug into a 110 outlet for the small stuff,or a bigger end that also threads onto the cord for the 220 outlet and then you can turn up the power!! I have only used the 110 side so far but it works great and is easy to use.It was $948 and I think it will last me the rest of my life... ive looked at a lot of welders and this is the one i think ive decided on Last edited by bonefish; 12/09/09 10:43 AM.

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