Which Certification book do I need?
I want my car to cert to 8.50..Looks like my car has a chassis built that will not meet spec.
What is the diff between 25.3 and 25.4-25.5? The main frame rails are ok which are 2x3 1/8th thick. The rest of the chassis floor pan bracing, and trans tunnel needs to be ripped out etc. Heck the floor pans are steel and .090 thick.
My chassis guys wont put the cage in and cert it like it is. The car has no rocker bars etc.
So the idea is to add only the bars needed in the proper places to make this thing safe, and worth something.

As you can see the frame rails really dont have much support between the two..If It takes alick in the side there is nothing really keeping them from bending together. Also the trans tunnel is pretty small, and shallow. Lots and lots of bars can be removed and replaced by single larger stuffer bracing in key area's.

Yes
I found this out after the car just back from painting...

Thats a really good question. It looks like your somewhere between a roll bar and a chassis cert.

http://www.sfifoundation.com/

another pic

my "guess" would be a 25.4 without factory floor or frame

I would remove all the 1" and start working towards that spec. Hopefully BG or Comp Chassis will add there experience.

Here is my main concern. The drive shaft area. adding bracing between the frame rails wont be hard. But doing so to not come through the interior or interfere with the drive shaft.
I would rip everything out except the 2x3 frame rails and the other 2x3 were the roll cage sits. Add the bracing were one brace can be used for my seat bracket, then add the other one. Then also the rocker bars. Looks like 2x2 tubing will work here.

heres a 25.4 floor reference. sorry black and white and the bar references removed due to copyright.

no based on the callout it would be round tube. my opinion would be do it the right way now before you finish the car redoing after will suk. It suks but you should remove all that old work, 1 not to spec, 2 unsure of quality of work.

If you only want it to cert to 8.50, you don't need to be concerned with any of the SFI stuff. The specs in the NHRA Rule Book will be what they will be using. The 2x3 rails will be OK. It will need a rocker bar on the drivers side minimum (usually put it in on both sides), bracing under the seat and a legal cage. No funny car cage needed at 8.50. Can be mild steel, MIG welded. Obviously, the tubing has to be the correct size and thickness and the welds and construction have to be done correctly. Once you decide to go quicker than 8.50, things become more complicated.

Looking at your photos again, I will agree that most of what's there should come out and what's left be made right. All that 1x1 and the other small stuff does nothing but hold the floor and will not have any relevance to a certification. I always like to use some X bracing in the floor between the frame rails and even diagonals between the frame rails and the rocker bars. Even if it's not needed for cert, it stiffens the car substantially.

Don't forget without your stock floor you also need a knee bar between the 2 front uprights. I would also think the rocker bars should be on both sides.

Thanks guys good advise...I wished I knew this before hand. I have know one to blame but my self..I just didnt do my home work.
I will make it right. My current plan is to go ahead and make the floor and chassis ready for 7.50 cert. add all the necessary bars now. And just forgo the 8.50 cert. Then it will just need the addition of a funny car cage and a few odd and ends to make the jump..

don't sweat it Bob you can't change the past. Your going to do it right now so all will be good.